[JoeyBonez]

Hey guys! I’m never started a discussion before, but I do a lot of digging around here when I have issues- y’all are great!

Here’s my issue/background :

135k - have had injectors done, fuel tank, erg delete, oil cooler, ficm updated

For the last 3-4 years, the truck has had a “hard start” cold, and a no start hot.

did the glow plug module and icp sensor. HELPED BIG TIME.

I have been experiencing a flat out NO START - hot or sometimes cold.

I landscape everyday with the truck. If we have a house that only takes 10 minutes, I can bet the truck won’t start. We sit there for 10-15 minutes (trying every 3 minutes to start it) and it starts.

When it starts- it’s absolutely fine. No smoke what so ever out the exhaust from cranking. And I never hold it long enough to throw the a cks or cam code. No funny vibrations, or drive ability issues AT ALL!


Bought the scan gauge 2 and here’s what I get:

ficm v 48
sync 1
Icp - 0.41
Ipr - 84.7

Reads that during each no start try and then after 10 mins, maybe 5 try’s- ipr goes to 70ish and fires up.

Once it fires - all sensors read good values.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

I know- “change the ipr to start” but can anyone offer insight on why this may be happening, sticky valve? But it reads less with the key on, bad pump? These are know to go bad but, why would it start after waiting and run fine, if there was a leak passing an o ring due to heat expansion, wouldn’t I have some issues driving? When it starts good, it’s good. Please, please help.

thanks.

 

[JoeyBonez]

I’ve searched and searched and even had personal conversations with All American Ford main diesel tech.

the funny part about this issue is that when it won’t start, give it 10 mintues and it starts FINE. Not a hard start, or a long start, FINE! You can shut it off and start it fine 10 more times until it happens again.

after talking to some folks, they all tell me, you have a“hard hot start, real common” but then I explain how it will start fine after it starts. This makes them scratch their head.

if it were a issue whereheat expansion is causing a hard hot start, then I should almost have this issue every time it’s hot, or progressively more often until it’s a true no start due to a big enough leak.

This could be caused by a faulty check valve, that is lodged due to wear and heat expansion that frees up after so much vibration or pressure differences during the crank, wait, crank?

I am going to leak test it, it’s the only way to really tell what’s going on. My issue with that is, seems like it may only show a leak when this issues occurs, how do I get it to happen without an ipr valve in it to get it to REAL running temps. Like I said, doesn’t do it just because it’s hot, happens when it wants to happen

I was hoping the last few years this issue would come to a head and I could put my finger on it pretty easy (crank no start) but it seems like it just wants to mess with me.