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I have found lots of posts chasing around various issues with Loss of Power & Rough Idle. I have read all I can find hoping for an answer but as of yet I have found none, with the possible exception of either 2 bad injectors or a shorting Fuel Injector Harness.

My Story:
2003 Excursion with a 6.0 Powerstroke. Last week I changed the oil and the Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter without a hitch. Then the crap hit the fan. I was driving a short distance (less than 5 miles) and I realized I was losing power and when I stopped at a light the idle was shaking the entire truck.

I limped home and tried to restart a few times. The truck will start but the idle was really rough and the truck has very little power. Sitting in my driveway I press the pedal all of the way down and the RPM's climb very slowly but eventually make it over 3000 and top out about around 3200. Sometimes I does not even climb past 2500. I unhooked the negative battery cables hoping to have the truck go though a startup reset. It did not help at all. Oops, I forgot to say that I checked and the oil level is good and the coolant level is good.

I have a DashCommand app and an OBD2 connector (nothing fancy) so I plugged it in and I got a code P0266 (Cylinder 2 Contribution/Balance). So I started thinking I had a bad injector. So I unplugged the injector and plugged it in again. I then restarted the truck and it then kicked with a P0278 (Cylinder 6 Contributor/Balance). I did the same unplug and replug trick on #6. No change in idle or power. As a note: I just replaced the FICM 8 months ago and it has been great. It shows rock solid at 48V on DashCommand so I think it is fine.

Now when I start the truck I get either the P0266 or the P0278 each start up. So to be clear: Start #1 P0278, Turn Off, Start #2 P0266, Turn Off, Start #3 P0278 and onward and onward.

I checked the Fuel Injection Harness and I am wondering if there could be an intermittent short in it. It does have some wear spots.

Other Random Facts: ICP is always over 500 psi with a minimum of 638 PSI. Injection Control Pressure holes at .917V. I am not registering any misfires in any of the cylinders.

I would appreciate any advice or wisdom.

Thanks,
Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I thought I would update this post.

This problem is driving me crazy. My Excursion is still running really rough and has little power on acceleration. As the truck warms up eventually it will have Zero acceleration and eventually stall and not start until it has cooled down for a while. So today I checked and the truck was throwing no codes but still running really rough idle. I purchased a new Fuel Injector Wiring Harness and plan to replace the old one. When I have it off I will look for problems with it. While looking over everything today I found that the wires going into the CPS connector were beat up (Picture posted below). After I play around with it for a bit I restarted the truck and it threw a P2614 code (Camshaft Position Output Circuit / Open). Now remember since this problem started (with no warning out of the blue after an oil change) It will through codes for a Cylinder 2 Contribution/Balance and Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance. It started throwing these codes as I restarted it. One time Cylinder 2 the Next time Cylinder 6.

FICM checks solid / IPC seems to be solid / IPR seems to be solid.

Question: Could all of this be caused by the bad CPS sensor wires causing a random short? Would this make its way all the way into the system to show phantom Injector codes?

I could really use some help here.

Thanks Guys
 

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Any smoke out the exhaust? What does your IPR% read when you have the crank no start?

-jokester
 

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Reply to Jokester

Hi Jokester, there is no smoke from the exhaust. The ipr pressure has been reading above 800 when I start. I have not specifically looked at it when it is a no start position. I will see if I can test that tomorrow. It only goes into the no start if I try to drive it for a couple of miles. The power seems to go down further and further until it just dies out. Then it does not start un less I let it sit for a bit.

Thanks for the response & I will write the results tomorrow.

Happy New Year!
 

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Hi Jokester, there is no smoke from the exhaust. The ipr pressure has been reading above 800 when I start. I have not specifically looked at it when it is a no start position. I will see if I can test that tomorrow. It only goes into the no start if I try to drive it for a couple of miles. The power seems to go down further and further until it just dies out. Then it does not start un less I let it sit for a bit.

Thanks for the response & I will write the results tomorrow.

Happy New Year!
Not ICP...IPR - Injection Pressure Regulator! By monitoring IPR in conjunction with ICP, it gives you an idea what the high pressure oil system is (or isn't) doing.

-jokester
 

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Curious about the oil change, ... is the filter and cap Ford style or one of those with extended length cap and filter? Sometimes the filter drain valve is not closed properly and starves the HPOP, ...may want to check that valve anyways
 

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I'm wondering about the timing of that oil change, as well. Any chance that you pushed on your injector harness during the oil change and caused a FICM connector to unseat?
 

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I have found lots of posts chasing around various issues with Loss of Power & Rough Idle. I have read all I can find hoping for an answer but as of yet I have found none, with the possible exception of either 2 bad injectors or a shorting Fuel Injector Harness.


Injection Control Pressure holes at .917V.
What do you mean by this? Does it read a steady .917V? It should go up and down as the HPOP changes. If the voltage is steady, then it means the ICP, ICP Pigtail, or ICP wiring is bad.

Only other easy thing I can recommend is if your monitor will let you read ICP desired, then that would be good. At any given point ICP desired should be somewhat close to ICP, or it indicates a High Pressure Oil leak. What's unfortunate about the early models is they are very hard to do a shop air test because the ICP port is buried under the turbo. A shop air test may find where the oil leak is, if it is an oil leak, but because it seems to be more when its hot, by the time I got it torn down to do the test, the engine would be cold. Contribution test would also be good, but can't do that without some expensive software.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hydro, I have suspected the oil change as well since I did it myself for the first time. It seemed like the easiest oil change I've ever done with the Oil Filter on the top of the engine. I think my filter cap is the Ford (see attached picture). I had a Fram oil filter (for my 6.0) which popped into the cap just fine and then I just screwed it back into place. What you describe might be why I am having problems. I just ran a set of test that Jokester asked me to run and I see that the IPR is maxing out at 85% and then the engine starts running even rougher until it dies. I hope it is something that I did with the filter and can fix easily. What do you suggest? Reseat the filter? Get a different filter? Other? How do I check the filter drain valve?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Jokester, you were right to tell me to watch the IPR. The pump gets to 85% and flatlines. At that point the truck has no throttle response, it will only idle roughly. After a minute or two it dies. Additionally, when I try to restart after this the IPR Pressure is between 41%-46%. IPR right after starting seems ok until it runs for a bit and then it gets progressively worse.

Now all of this started immediately after I changed the oil. Hydro suggested that perhaps when I changed the oil something happened with the filter drain valve which could starve the HPOP. What do you think about that idea?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have reseated all of the FICM connectors and they seem good. I do have a new wire harness to put on but have not done it yet.
 

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Reply to ChrisSki

I misspoke/typed. The ICP Voltage actually increases with the RPM's (HPOP Pressure). Key In Engine Off the ICP shows at 0.205 V. As I increase RPM's it increases as well. It ranges, while running from 1.079v - 3.078v.

I have attached a picture of the reading of ICP Requested vs IPC Actual below. It looks like they are dead on. I hope this is good. I am kind of chasing around to see if perhaps I did something wrong in seating the Oil Filter after the oil change and messed up the Oil Filter Drain Valve. I did use a Fram filter I had purchased a while back but it seemed to be the correct filter. Do you think that might be something to pursue?

Thanks,

Drew
 

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I wrote this after your first post with attachments...

The first attached plot is labeled as VGT Duty Cycle. I believe you as to your IPR% flatlining, but the visual info is always good for internet diagnosis.

@Hydro 's suspicions are sound. Given the additional info - some of which I may not have caught when I commented in the middle of the night - I would think that you are looking at either a physical leak of the HPOP or HPOP supply system, an electrical short in the injector harness (including the injector connector), or a failure of the IPR valve itself.

Because the problem gets progressively worse - rather than either being constant or intermittent causes me to lean toward a physical problem. The speed at which this is ocurring is another clue. If you said that it took ten minutes, I'd be more inclined to suspect something electrical. You just can't rule completely out electrical, yet.

All of that said... starting by looking at things that may have been affected by your oil change is the best bet. So you are back to anything in the tower or anything that you may have touched.
____________________________

This is after the latest info...

You need to get that Fram filter out of there on principle. Blindly, without question or concern, drop a Motorcraft in there. Not all of the geometric features were accurately reproduced on aftermarket filters.

It may not fix your problem, but it is definitely the first thing to get out of the way in your diagnosis.
 
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All of that said... starting by looking at things that may have been affected by your oil change is the best bet. So you are back to anything in the tower or anything that you may have touched.
____________________________

This is after the latest info...

You need to get that Fram filter out of there on principle. Blindly, without question or concern, drop a Motorcraft in there. Not all of the geometric features were accurately reproduced on aftermarket filters.

It may not fix your problem, but it is definitely the first thing to get out of the way in your diagnosis.
^^This! Get a Motorcraft filter in there, and if you're unsure about your cap, i'd even go buy a Motorcraft cap from the dealer to go along with it. The wrong filters/caps combos have contributed to no start conditions before as well as incorrect oil filtering.

Was the new oil the same type/brand that you've used before?

-jokester
 
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Update

I will be heading to the Parts Store to pick up the Motorcraft filter and a cap (just to make sure). I will not make this mistake again, I will use the recommended parts I see on this forum.

I will pick this up this afternoon and Pray & then run this test. I will share soon.

I just want to say thanks to you guys who are investing the time to help me out. It is appreciated and I am learning. I will pass on the knowledge as you teach it to me.

Happy New Year Gentlemen!
 

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A little background on why we recommend OEM filters/caps - FUEL AND OIL! :D




-jokester
 

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I misspoke/typed. The ICP Voltage actually increases with the RPM's (HPOP Pressure). Key In Engine Off the ICP shows at 0.205 V. As I increase RPM's it increases as well. It ranges, while running from 1.079v - 3.078v.

I have attached a picture of the reading of ICP Requested vs IPC Actual below. It looks like they are dead on. I hope this is good. I am kind of chasing around to see if perhaps I did something wrong in seating the Oil Filter after the oil change and messed up the Oil Filter Drain Valve. I did use a Fram filter I had purchased a while back but it seemed to be the correct filter. Do you think that might be something to pursue?

Thanks,

Drew
If the ICP actual and Demand are dead on then that's good. With the ICP voltage increasing like you mentioned, then the ICP, pigtail, and wiring are good. As far as damaging the drain back valve, the filter sits on top of it, closing it. If you were to crank it the engine with the oil filter removed, it would fill up and then slowly drain out. If you depress that lever with a screwdriver and crank, the oil will stay in.


IMO changing the oil at this point may not solve the problem. With an oil change costing at least $50 for the filter and oil, may not fix it. It may be the next cheapest thing though. At this point if it can be driven to a shop and hooked to a scanner, could be worth the $150 for a good diagnosis. From there its AutoEnginuity software for your PC around $350 that can almost do all the shop scanner can. Also, a fuel pressure check could be worth it, but the gauges aren't cheap either, but would probably be included in the $150 diagnosis, but AutoEnginuity won't read fuel pressure.
 

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Looks like there is a couple of problems, first there is likely a leak in the high pressure system, second there may be an issue with the filter drain valve. Changing the filter only caused the problem to show because of "starving" the HPOP for supply oil.

Does this truck have a long crank when hot or when it has set like over the weekend?

I could be totally wrong too ...
 
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