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I’ve got a 2002 F250 7.3 that will intermittently crank no start, it has done this a handful of times, and sometime it will start with the next key cycle or sometimes it won’t start till the next day, the most recent was this past Sunday it just cranked and would not start, I replaced the CPS sensor with no luck and unplugged the ICP sensor and still wouldn’t start, waited till Monday and tried to start it still just cranked no start, checked all the fuses and opened the fuel bowl to check fuel and it was full, no smoke come from tail pipe any time when attempting to start. Went out Tuesday to try it and it starts right up, and has started each day since, I don’t currently have a scanner to check for codes or graph anything but the check engine light has never been on the truck and wasn’t on yesterday’s while the truck ran, it will light up when you key on for the initial check and the wait to start light comes on every time as well, don’t really know where to go from here and it’s so intermittent it’s hard to diagnose, any help would be greatly appreciated, And thanks in advance!
 

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I’ve got a 2002 F250 7.3 that will intermittently crank no start, it has done this a handful of times, and sometime it will start with the next key cycle or sometimes it won’t start till the next day, the most recent was this past Sunday it just cranked and would not start, I replaced the CPS sensor with no luck and unplugged the ICP sensor and still wouldn’t start, waited till Monday and tried to start it still just cranked no start, checked all the fuses and opened the fuel bowl to check fuel and it was full, no smoke come from tail pipe any time when attempting to start. Went out Tuesday to try it and it starts right up, and has started each day since, I don’t currently have a scanner to check for codes or graph anything but the check engine light has never been on the truck and wasn’t on yesterday’s while the truck ran, it will light up when you key on for the initial check and the wait to start light comes on every time as well, don’t really know where to go from here and it’s so intermittent it’s hard to diagnose, any help would be greatly appreciated, And thanks in advance!
You need to scan it. Use your Android, iPhone, or laptop to do it. There is a thread called super duty diagnostics on the cheap. Less than $50 and you can scan and monitor.

Without it, you are flying blind.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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I’ve got a 2002 F250 7.3 that will intermittently crank no start, it has done this a handful of times, and sometime it will start with the next key cycle or sometimes it won’t start till the next day, the most recent was this past Sunday it just cranked and would not start, I replaced the CPS sensor with no luck and unplugged the ICP sensor and still wouldn’t start, waited till Monday and tried to start it still just cranked no start, checked all the fuses and opened the fuel bowl to check fuel and it was full, no smoke come from tail pipe any time when attempting to start. Went out Tuesday to try it and it starts right up, and has started each day since, I don’t currently have a scanner to check for codes or graph anything but the check engine light has never been on the truck and wasn’t on yesterday’s while the truck ran, it will light up when you key on for the initial check and the wait to start light comes on every time as well, don’t really know where to go from here and it’s so intermittent it’s hard to diagnose, any help would be greatly appreciated, And thanks in advance!
I had a similar problem I have been fighting for two weeks. Driving out of town it just died and coasted to a stop. Cranked and cranked without success and finally towed it home. Tried it next day and it cranked right up but only to die 2 miles later and coast to a stop again. Replaced the CPS and still no luck - same results. Limped to a mechanic (very close by) and he used his $8000 dollar scanner and told me "no codes and nothings mechanically wrong - it's your PCM." $1000 dollars later, still no luck. Replaced the ICP sensor based on another mechanic's recommendation - no change. Pulled the sending unit from the auxiliary tank and found the screen on the bottom was cracked and unattached. Replaced the screen and fished out the small plastic pieces that had crumbled off. Drained the filter bowl (again) capturing the fuel this time. Noticed hard plastic and soft rubber pieces in the fuel. Plastic pieces were probably from the screen assembly in the aux tank, but the rubber was probably from the short pieces of rubber fuel line that goes from the tank to the "tank switcher" mechanism. Replaced all rubber hoses, flushed all diesel from the lines to the bowl, and blew them out. Tried it again and my daughter gets even more experience as the driver of the toad. (Now towed a total of 6 times). Would have been more but I had learned to start it and let it idle for 11 minutes (predictable after many times) and it would die. At least now I didn't have to tow it back home. This was confirming my thought that I could run until the bowl emptied and then it would not start until it sat for a few hours. This led me to believe was the fuel pump. Had replaced the factory pump several years ago and believed the factory pump to be good and kept it. Can't remember what the real problem then was. The replacement pump was from Autozone - an after market. The pump always kicked on when turning the ignition on and finally off when pressured up, but it seemed to "sound different". Pulled the pump and put the old OEM pump back on and started it. Let it idle for over an hour while working around the shop. Got it out and drove it to town and it ran like a champ. Have run it about 100 miles with no problem yet. So about $1300 dollars in parts (which I will keep) and an old fuel pump and the problem is solved. Very frustrating experience to have three diesel mechanics say "we need to hook it up to the computer" and recommend all the parts I went through only to have the real problem be SO simple - just not enough fuel to make the thing run. For what it's worth. Hope this is helpful to some other poor soul. God Bless!
 

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For both cases, ForScan to check for codes and operating parameters -- or find someone with Ford IDS
Pressure gauge for the fuel system
Pressure gauge for the low side oil

This minimal expense would have saved a lot of headaches and money
I suggest permanently mounting those gauges in the truck on all 7.3 and 6.0
 
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