Just bought this beast with 200k and it was extremely hard to start and had no power. I Resealed leaking hpop, new ipr, new feed hoses with no check valves. New starter, good batteries. Installed new cps due to no tach at crank, still no tach. Wiring is good from engine harness no cps. Previous owner told me they got a code for injectors 1 and 3 so I replaced the vc gaskets and connectors to rule that out. Glow plugs all ohmed around .6 ohms and I did replace the bad GP relay. I have 1800+psi at ICP while cranking and truck acts like it wants to start but it won't. White smoke out of exhaust and fuel bowl is pressurized but I don't have an actual psi yet. (Fitting is en route). Now I have a consistent code for injectors 1 and 8 being low but they all sound off during buzz test. What's my next move? Will 1 or 2 injectors being bad keep it from starting? Or am I missing something else? What's my next step?
2002 crank.no start, good ICP
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Coupla things,,,, during the '01 production there was a major update to the electrics and that upgrade changed the Instrument cluster to one that No Longer shows cranking rpm on the tach. Next, no,,, this engine will start and run (although very roughly) on just 4clys.
Exactly what codes are you getting, and what is it you'r using to retrieve them?
Give this a try, plug in the block heater for 3hrs and see if it changes anything.
When starting, we want to know that these 4 important values are As You Crank on the Starter;
1- ICP pressure
2- IPR %
3- RPM
4- System Voltage
And finally, my usual No Start list (I know you've covered some of it already
)
WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)
Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Can you verify cranking rpm signal with a scanner of some sort? Do you have a spare CPS to try?
Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?
Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)
Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)
Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.
Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.
You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).
Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.
Exactly what codes are you getting, and what is it you'r using to retrieve them?
Give this a try, plug in the block heater for 3hrs and see if it changes anything.
When starting, we want to know that these 4 important values are As You Crank on the Starter;
1- ICP pressure
2- IPR %
3- RPM
4- System Voltage
And finally, my usual No Start list (I know you've covered some of it already
)WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)
Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Can you verify cranking rpm signal with a scanner of some sort? Do you have a spare CPS to try?
Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?
Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)
Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)
Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.
Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.
You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).
Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.
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9,938 Posts
Boy that sucker looks like it should start!
And those are the Only "P" codes? And the buzz test sounds good?
I'm thinking Fuel... It will be interesting to see, once your fitting arrives, if you have no fuel pressure (you're above 1/4 tank ~ right?)
And those are the Only "P" codes? And the buzz test sounds good?
I'm thinking Fuel... It will be interesting to see, once your fitting arrives, if you have no fuel pressure (you're above 1/4 tank ~ right?)
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9,938 Posts
You're talking about the 5V reference line being 4.99v ? The system voltage of 10.8v is also good, in an '02 you can be as low as 9v and still start.
With the right scanner, the PCM does about the most effective testing of the IDM. It is the most closely monitored of all your modules and, if you had an IDM problem you'd have IDM codes (plus, you're able to complete a buzz test and that thoroughly tests the IDM).
With the right scanner, the PCM does about the most effective testing of the IDM. It is the most closely monitored of all your modules and, if you had an IDM problem you'd have IDM codes (plus, you're able to complete a buzz test and that thoroughly tests the IDM).
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12,046 Posts
Just spit balling but have you checked to make sure there is enough oil in the crank and or tried cranking with a battery tender/charger plugged in? I've seen and personally experienced low/failing batteries work one second and not the next even when within range while tested off/on the truck. The oil being to low is super rare and it would have to be VERY LOW for a no start on that alone.
Also have you tried GENTLY wiggling the IPR wire while having someone crank? I had a random crank/no start scenario right after loading a trailer and the wiring was bad. Unfortunately I did not have the time to do a proper test and I paid for more parts than I needed but it worked to my benefit in the end. A combo of 7yr old batteries and IPR wiring being shot for 21 yrs of oil/fuel/heat.
Also have you tried GENTLY wiggling the IPR wire while having someone crank? I had a random crank/no start scenario right after loading a trailer and the wiring was bad. Unfortunately I did not have the time to do a proper test and I paid for more parts than I needed but it worked to my benefit in the end. A combo of 7yr old batteries and IPR wiring being shot for 21 yrs of oil/fuel/heat.
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