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My headlight lenses had deteriorated to what yours have. I couldn't see chit at night. The occlusion makes the light go in all directions except where it needs to go. I don't remember the brand I ended up with. Possibly "Eagle Eye" which is a chinee cheapie OEM replacement popular with body shops and rebuilders when cost is a concern. About $45 for the pair, took a couple hours to install, and I can see where I'm going at night again.

You're making progress. Keep it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
SO.....I WANT TO MODIFY MY FOG LIGHTS SO THAT THEY WORK WITH THE PARKING LIGHTS AND THE HIGH BEAMS.....

I MIGHT ALSO WIRE THEM AS DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS.....IF I DO THE DRL MODIFICATION.....I WILL USE A SEPARATE SWITCH.....AND RELAYS.....

DOES ANYBODY HAVE THE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THE HEAD LIGHT AND FOG LIGHT SYSTEMS?....

THANKS.....
 

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SO.....I WANT TO MODIFY MY FOG LIGHTS SO THAT THEY WORK WITH THE PARKING LIGHTS AND THE HIGH BEAMS.....

I MIGHT ALSO WIRE THEM AS DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS.....IF I DO THE DRL MODIFICATION.....I WILL USE A SEPARATE SWITCH.....AND RELAYS.....

DOES ANYBODY HAVE THE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THE HEAD LIGHT AND FOG LIGHT SYSTEMS?....

THANKS.....
From the factory they are only able to be turned on with the headlights on, and low beam selected (no high beam or flash to pass).

775417
 

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SO.....I WANT TO MODIFY MY FOG LIGHTS SO THAT THEY WORK WITH THE PARKING LIGHTS AND THE HIGH BEAMS.....

I MIGHT ALSO WIRE THEM AS DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS.....IF I DO THE DRL MODIFICATION.....I WILL USE A SEPARATE SWITCH.....AND RELAYS.....

DOES ANYBODY HAVE THE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THE HEAD LIGHT AND FOG LIGHT SYSTEMS?....

THANKS.....
It would be a really simple modification, cut and cap the fog light relay wire going into C205a pin 2 (RD/BK) and connect to pin 12 (BN), then your fog lights will come on with the parking lights and headlights (assuming your fog light switch is on). If you didn't want to tie into factory illumination wire, you could use C205a pin 11 which is "spare not used" but will also have +12V with the headlight switch on Park or Head setting.
775418


775419
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
I THINK THAT I AM GOING TO TAKE THE FOG LIGHTS OFF OF THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH.....SINCE I DON'T LIKE HOW THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH IS SOMETIMES DIFFICULT TO GRIP WHEN TRYING TO PULL IT OUTWARD TO TURN ON THE FOG LIGHTS.....

I WILL WIRE THEM TO A SEPARATE 3-WAY SWITCH NEXT TO THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH.....

1) DRL.....ON AT ALL TIMES.....(HOT WITH KEY IN THE RUN POSITION).....

2) OFF.....(ESPECIALLY FOR FIRST START UP.....AND WINTER START UP).....

3) ON WITH PARKING LIGHTS.....

I WILL DE-PIN THE FOG LIGHT WIRE FROM THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH.....AND RUN A SEPARATE RELAY BETWEEN THE PARKING LIGHTS AND THE IGNITION SWITCH IN THE RUN POSITION.....

I THINK THAT THIS WILL BE THE BEST SOLUTION FOR ME.....
 
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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
SO.....ON SUNDAY.....I WENT OUT TO MY TRUCK AFTER A RAIN STORM.....AND AFTER WARM-UP.....WHEN I PULLED OFF.....I NOTICED WATER LEAKING FROM ONE OF THE BUTTONS ON MY OVERHEAD CONSOLE.....IT WAS QUITE A FEW DROPS OF WATER.....BUT NOT A STREAM.....

I PUT MY HAND INSIDE OF THE OPENING IN THE CONSOLE.....AND IT WAS DRY.....BUT THERE WAS THE DROPS THAT HAD LEAKED FROM THE BUTTON.....NO OTHER WATER WAS IN THERE.....

SO.....IS IT REASONABLE TO CHECK THE ROOFTOP CAB LIGHTS FIRST.....OR TO CHECK AROUND THE WINDSHIELD FOR THIS LEAK?....

B-T-W.....THE FLOOR WAS DRY.....THE HEADLINER WAS DRY.....AND THERE WERE NO SIGNS OF ANY WATER LEAKING ANYWHERE ELSE.....ALSO.....THE CONSOLE LIGHTS AND FEATURES ARE ALL WORKING.....SO.....ARE ALL FIVE OF THE ROOFTOP LIGHTS.....

THANKS.....
 

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SO.....ON SUNDAY.....I WENT OUT TO MY TRUCK AFTER A RAIN STORM.....AND AFTER WARM-UP.....WHEN I PULLED OFF.....I NOTICED WATER LEAKING FROM ONE OF THE BUTTONS ON MY OVERHEAD CONSOLE.....IT WAS QUITE A FEW DROPS OF WATER.....BUT NOT A STREAM.....

I PUT MY HAND INSIDE OF THE OPENING IN THE CONSOLE.....AND IT WAS DRY.....BUT THERE WAS THE DROPS THAT HAD LEAKED FROM THE BUTTON.....NO OTHER WATER WAS IN THERE.....

SO.....IS IT REASONABLE TO CHECK THE ROOFTOP CAB LIGHTS FIRST.....OR TO CHECK AROUND THE WINDSHIELD FOR THIS LEAK?....

B-T-W.....THE FLOOR WAS DRY.....THE HEADLINER WAS DRY.....AND THERE WERE NO SIGNS OF ANY WATER LEAKING ANYWHERE ELSE.....ALSO.....THE CONSOLE LIGHTS AND FEATURES ARE ALL WORKING.....SO.....ARE ALL FIVE OF THE ROOFTOP LIGHTS.....

THANKS.....
What I like to do in those type cases is have a buddy squire a hose and try and pinpoint the leak location. Maybe take down the overhead compass/temp display and peak up there with a flashlight while a buddy squirts each cab light. I always worried about them leaking but haven't heard too many horror stories, I assume there's some type of o-ring or gasket between the light housing and roof that maybe degrades over time?
 

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MY NEW 135 AMP ALTERNATOR ARRIVED FROM ROCKAUTO.....



This alternator, any issues in the past few years? Plug and play with the exception of the washers? Kept the same pulley as was shipped from the factory?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
This alternator, any issues in the past few years? Plug and play with the exception of the washers? Kept the same pulley as was shipped from the factory?

Thanks
NO PROBLEMS AT ALL.....NO MORE BATTERY (CHARGE) LIGHT ON.....YES.....IT IS PLUG AND PLAY EXCEPT FOR THE WASHERS.....AND I DID MEASURE THE PULLEY.....AND IT WAS THE SAME SIZE AS THE FACTORY PULLEY.....SO.....NO CHANGES TO THE PULLEY.....

I KEPT MY OLD ALTERNATOR FOR A FEW MONTHS JUST IN CASE.....BUT THE PULLEY WAS NOT NEEDED.....

ONE THING THAT YOU WANT TO BE AWARE OF....IS WHERE THE LARGE ALTERNATOR WIRE CONNECTS TO THE BACK OF THE ALTERNATOR.....IT IS A FEW INCHES FURTHER AWAY.....BUT THE WIRE EASILY REACHES THE MOUNTING STUD WITH NO EXTRA TENSION ON THE WIRE.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
SO.....I HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE NEW LED BULBS THAT I INSTALLED IN MY DASH (INSTRUMENT CLUSTER).....

AFTER I INSTALLED THE BULBS.....I NOTICED THAT THE BULBS LOOKED "HALF-LIT" AT NIGHT.....SEE THE PHOTOS AT THE BOTTOM.....SO I SENT THE FOLLOWING MESSAGE TO THE SELLER "YITAMOTOR".....

PLEASE EXPLAIN WHY THE FOLLOWING OCCURS:....

THESE LIGHTS GO "DIM" NOT OUT.....WHEN THEY SHOULD ACTUALLY GO OUT.....

ONCE THE WARNING LIGHTS ON THE DASH COMPLETE THE "FACTORY BULB" TEST WHEN THE VEHICLE IS FIRST STARTED.....THE LIGHTS TURN OFF.....HOWEVER....THESE LED BULBS DON'T TURN ALL THE WAY OFF.....THEY GO FROM BRIGHT "ON".....TO DIM.....INSTEAD OF GOING ALL THE WAY OFF.....SO.....AT NIGHT.....IT LOOKS LIKE THE WARNING LIGHTS ARE ALL "ON".....WHEN THEY ARE ACTUALLY OFF.....

I WILL HAVE TO DO DOUBLE WORK AND REMOVE THEM AND INSTALL THE ORIGINAL BULBS BACK IN THE DASH PANEL.....I WILL ALSO HAVE TO SEND THESE BULBS BACK TO THE SUPPLIER.....

AND.....IT IS NOW PAST THE RETURN WINDOW.....SO THESE WILL HAVE TO BE PUT IN MY JUNK DRAWER.....

MY VEHICLE IS A 2001 FORD F350 SUPERDUTY DIESEL PICKUP TRUCK.....

THEY REQUESTED A COUPLE OF PHOTOS.....WHICH I SENT.....AND THEY HAD NO EXPLANATION FOR THIS ISSUE.....SO THEY DECIDED TO GIVE ME A REFUND.....

THE #194 LED BULBS WORK FINE.....IT IS THE #37 BULBS THAT GO INTO THE WARNING LIGHTS THAT ARE STAYING DIMLY LIT.....SO I AM PUTTING THE FACTORY BULBS BACK INTO THE WARNING LIGHT SOCKETS.....

I JUST THOUGHT THAT I WOULD LET ALL OF YOU KNOW WHAT MAY HAPPEN IF YOU CHANGE YOUR "WARNING" LIGHTS TO LED BULBS.....

775550


775551
 

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NO PROBLEMS AT ALL.....NO MORE BATTERY (CHARGE) LIGHT ON.....YES.....IT IS PLUG AND PLAY EXCEPT FOR THE WASHERS.....AND I DID MEASURE THE PULLEY.....AND IT WAS THE SAME SIZE AS THE FACTORY PULLEY.....SO.....NO CHANGES TO THE PULLEY.....

I KEPT MY OLD ALTERNATOR FOR A FEW MONTHS JUST IN CASE.....BUT THE PULLEY WAS NOT NEEDED.....

ONE THING THAT YOU WANT TO BE AWARE OF....IS WHERE THE LARGE ALTERNATOR WIRE CONNECTS TO THE BACK OF THE ALTERNATOR.....IT IS A FEW INCHES FURTHER AWAY.....BUT THE WIRE EASILY REACHES THE MOUNTING STUD WITH NO EXTRA TENSION ON THE WIRE.....
Right on. I ordered the same one from rock auto. I don't have any battery lights on yet but I have noticed lower readings recently on my voltmeter. 13.7-13.9 instead of 14.1-14.2. Maybe its the weather..who knows. Figured its easier to change out to a new style in my garage than on the side of the road, 19 years is enough to ask out of an old alternator.
 
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SO.....I HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE NEW LED BULBS THAT I INSTALLED IN MY DASH (INSTRUMENT CLUSTER).....

AFTER I INSTALLED THE BULBS.....I NOTICED THAT THE BULBS LOOKED "HALF-LIT" AT NIGHT.....SEE THE PHOTOS AT THE BOTTOM.....SO I SENT THE FOLLOWING MESSAGE TO THE SELLER "YITAMOTOR".....

PLEASE EXPLAIN WHY THE FOLLOWING OCCURS:....

THESE LIGHTS GO "DIM" NOT OUT.....WHEN THEY SHOULD ACTUALLY GO OUT.....

ONCE THE WARNING LIGHTS ON THE DASH COMPLETE THE "FACTORY BULB" TEST WHEN THE VEHICLE IS FIRST STARTED.....THE LIGHTS TURN OFF.....HOWEVER....THESE LED BULBS DON'T TURN ALL THE WAY OFF.....THEY GO FROM BRIGHT "ON".....TO DIM.....INSTEAD OF GOING ALL THE WAY OFF.....SO.....AT NIGHT.....IT LOOKS LIKE THE WARNING LIGHTS ARE ALL "ON".....WHEN THEY ARE ACTUALLY OFF.....

I WILL HAVE TO DO DOUBLE WORK AND REMOVE THEM AND INSTALL THE ORIGINAL BULBS BACK IN THE DASH PANEL.....I WILL ALSO HAVE TO SEND THESE BULBS BACK TO THE SUPPLIER.....

AND.....IT IS NOW PAST THE RETURN WINDOW.....SO THESE WILL HAVE TO BE PUT IN MY JUNK DRAWER.....


MY VEHICLE IS A 2001 FORD F350 SUPERDUTY DIESEL PICKUP TRUCK.....

THEY REQUESTED A COUPLE OF PHOTOS.....WHICH I SENT.....AND THEY HAD NO EXPLANATION FOR THIS ISSUE.....SO THEY DECIDED TO GIVE ME A REFUND.....

THE #194 LED BULBS WORK FINE.....IT IS THE #37 BULBS THAT GO INTO THE WARNING LIGHTS THAT ARE STAYING DIMLY LIT.....SO I AM PUTTING THE FACTORY BULBS BACK INTO THE WARNING LIGHT SOCKETS.....

I JUST THOUGHT THAT I WOULD LET ALL OF YOU KNOW WHAT MAY HAPPEN IF YOU CHANGE YOUR "WARNING" LIGHTS TO LED BULBS.....

View attachment 775550

View attachment 775551
That is strange. I think all those lights that are dimly lit are driven by the PCM, so what I believe is that there is leakage current through a transistor which is switched by the PCM and is enough to forward bias a diode but not be enough to illuminate an incandescent bulb. When I did my LED bulb swap I did not mess with any of the grey bulbs. You could remove the cluster and measure the voltage across the terminals of those lights to see what it's reading to verify that theory, and then put the diodes on a DC voltage source to see what their forward bias voltage is to confirm the suspicion.
 

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SO.....I HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE NEW LED BULBS THAT I INSTALLED IN MY DASH (INSTRUMENT CLUSTER).....

AFTER I INSTALLED THE BULBS.....I NOTICED THAT THE BULBS LOOKED "HALF-LIT" AT NIGHT.....SEE THE PHOTOS AT THE BOTTOM.....SO I SENT THE FOLLOWING MESSAGE TO THE SELLER "YITAMOTOR".....

PLEASE EXPLAIN WHY THE FOLLOWING OCCURS:....

THESE LIGHTS GO "DIM" NOT OUT.....WHEN THEY SHOULD ACTUALLY GO OUT.....

ONCE THE WARNING LIGHTS ON THE DASH COMPLETE THE "FACTORY BULB" TEST WHEN THE VEHICLE IS FIRST STARTED.....THE LIGHTS TURN OFF.....HOWEVER....THESE LED BULBS DON'T TURN ALL THE WAY OFF.....THEY GO FROM BRIGHT "ON".....TO DIM.....INSTEAD OF GOING ALL THE WAY OFF.....SO.....AT NIGHT.....IT LOOKS LIKE THE WARNING LIGHTS ARE ALL "ON".....WHEN THEY ARE ACTUALLY OFF.....

I WILL HAVE TO DO DOUBLE WORK AND REMOVE THEM AND INSTALL THE ORIGINAL BULBS BACK IN THE DASH PANEL.....I WILL ALSO HAVE TO SEND THESE BULBS BACK TO THE SUPPLIER.....

AND.....IT IS NOW PAST THE RETURN WINDOW.....SO THESE WILL HAVE TO BE PUT IN MY JUNK DRAWER.....

MY VEHICLE IS A 2001 FORD F350 SUPERDUTY DIESEL PICKUP TRUCK.....

THEY REQUESTED A COUPLE OF PHOTOS.....WHICH I SENT.....AND THEY HAD NO EXPLANATION FOR THIS ISSUE.....SO THEY DECIDED TO GIVE ME A REFUND.....

THE #194 LED BULBS WORK FINE.....IT IS THE #37 BULBS THAT GO INTO THE WARNING LIGHTS THAT ARE STAYING DIMLY LIT.....SO I AM PUTTING THE FACTORY BULBS BACK INTO THE WARNING LIGHT SOCKETS.....

I JUST THOUGHT THAT I WOULD LET ALL OF YOU KNOW WHAT MAY HAPPEN IF YOU CHANGE YOUR "WARNING" LIGHTS TO LED BULBS.....

View attachment 775550

View attachment 775551
My 06 does this as well. LEDs don't need very much power to light and the "test lights" always have current going through them, so leds will be dimly lit all the time. I also find the turn and high beam indicators to be to bright at night, so I run incads in that area.


Sent from my Redmi Note 9 Pro using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
That is strange. I think all those lights that are dimly lit are driven by the PCM, so what I believe is that there is leakage current through a transistor which is switched by the PCM and is enough to forward bias a diode but not be enough to illuminate an incandescent bulb. When I did my LED bulb swap I did not mess with any of the grey bulbs. You could remove the cluster and measure the voltage across the terminals of those lights to see what it's reading to verify that theory, and then put the diodes on a DC voltage source to see what their forward bias voltage is to confirm the suspicion.
I BELIEVE THAT YOUR THEORY IS CORRECT.....AND THAT IS WHY I AM GOING TO PUT THE ORIGINAL WARNING LIGHT BULBS IN OVER THE WEEKEND.....

My 06 does this as well. LEDs don't need very much power to light and the "test lights" always have current going through them, so leds will be dimly lit all the time. I also find the turn and high beam indicators to be to bright at night, so I run incads in that area.
I AGREE WITH YOU.....BUT I LIKE THE BRIGHT TURN SIGNALS.....SO THOSE WILL STAY IN.....SINCE THEY "ONLY" LIGHT WHEN IN USE.....THERE ARE THREE MORE THAT "ONLY" LIGHT WHEN IN USE.....HIGH BEAMS.....4X4.....AND LOW FUEL.....SO THOSE WILL ALSO STAY IN.....

AS I SAID BEFORE.....ALL THE LARGE BULBS #194 WORK FINE.....AND I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT ONE OF THE #37 BULBS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CLUSTER.....IT SITS CENTER OF THE DASH.....OVER THE ODMETER....WORKS FINE.....ON MY TRUCK IT IS THE ONLY ONE IN A SMALL WHITE BULB HOLDER.....THE REST ARE BLACK OR TAN.....

JUST THOUGHT THAT I WOULD LET PEOPLE KNOW WHICH ONES CAN STAY IN.....IN CASE THEY WANT TO KEEP THE ONES THAT DON'T GO DIM WHEN OFF.....
 
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Discussion Starter · #96 · (Edited)
SO.....YESTERDAY.....I CAME HOME AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 60 MILES.....PARKED MY TRUCK FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AND A HALF.....AND WHEN I CAME BACK OUT TO LEAVE AGAIN.....MY RIGHT REAR TIRE WAS COMPLETELY FLAT.....I TOOK A LOOK.....AND I DID NOT SEE THE OBVIOUS NAIL OR SCREW IN THE TIRE.....I HAD TO GO.....SO I TOOK MY OTHER VEHICLE.....

TODAY.....I WENT OUT TO PUMP UP THE TIRE AND FIND THE LEAK.....AND I DISCOVERED THAT MY TIRES ARE DRY ROTTED.....SEE THE PHOTO.....
775960

THESE TIRES WERE ON MY OLD TRUCK.....AND THEY HAVE REALLY GOOD TREAD.....BUT THEY ARE OLD AND NEED TO BE REPLACED.....I WAS HOPING TO HAVE THEM LAST UNTIL THE FALL.....BUT I HAVE TO BITE THE BULLET AND BUY TIRES NOW.....

MY CURRENT TIRES ARE THE FACTORY SIZE 265/75/16 ON FACTORY WHEELS.....I WANT TO GO UP TO THE 285/75/16 ON MY FACTORY WHEELS.....HAS ANYONE HAD A PROBLEM WITH GOING TO THIS SIZE ON FACTORY WHEELS?....

B-T-W.....DOES ANYBODY KNOW IF THE LARGER TIRE WILL FIT UNDER THE TRUCK WITHOUT HITTING THE EXHAUST.....OR NEEDING MODIFICATION?....

ALSO.....CAN I USE FORSCAN TO CORRECT THE SPEEDOMETER DIFFERENCE?....

THANKS.....
 

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285 75 16 is a perfect sized tire for these trucks no rubbing or mods needed. Imo they look a bit better too, fill the fenders up better.

Speedo will actually be dead accurate with these new tires as well - no adjustment required.

Iirc vehicles can come from the factory with something like a 3% margin of error on the speedo, but not have it read low.

So all of our trucks with factory tires are actually only going 58 when the speedo reads 60. With the 3% bigger tires your speedo will read what the coppers radar reads.
 
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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
285 75 16 is a perfect sized tire for these trucks no rubbing or mods needed. Imo they look a bit better too, fill the fenders up better.

Speedo will actually be dead accurate with these new tires as well - no adjustment required.

Iirc vehicles can come from the factory with something like a 3% margin of error on the speedo, but not have it read low.

So all of our trucks with factory tires are actually only going 58 when the speedo reads 60. With the 3% bigger tires your speedo will read what the coppers radar reads.
THANKS FOR THE ADVICE.....AND I SCROLLED BACK AND JustinOOO9 HAD ALREADY ANSWERED MY QUESTION ABOUT USING FORSCAN TO CORRECT THE SPEEDOMETER.....

B-T-W.....I BLEW OUT THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE TODAY WHILE RUNNING A QUICK ERRAND.....I WON'T BE DRIVING MY TRUCK AGAIN UNTIL I REPLACE THE TIRES.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 · (Edited)
I GOT A SET OF USED TIRES TODAY FROM A FRIEND OF MINE.....THESE SHOULD LAST WELL INTO THE WINTER MONTHS.....(BF GOODRICH LONG TRAIL T/A).....

SO.....NOW I CAN TAKE MY TIME AND DO SOME RESEARCH BEFORE I BUY NEW TIRES.....I PLAN TO GET THE NEW TIRES BEFORE HALLOWEEN COMES.....

NEXT THING TO DO NOW.....IS FIX THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM.....I'VE GOT FREON.....O-RINGS.....AND OIL.....I HOPE TO GET THIS FIXED BY TUESDAY.....(IT WAS A VERY HUMID 98 DEGREES TODAY).....
 
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