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Discussion Starter #121
Well replaced the o ring and nut on the dipstick tube adapter only to have it leak again. It was barley seeping hence why I thought ill just get this before it gets worse lol.... Kit from riffraff was simple and good but still didn't work. Found an org member here who didn't end up using a strictly diesel adapter kit (still in the bag new) so saved a little money. Going to install it this evening or on the weekend.

I have to admit the kit is very well made, and well thought of. Im not sure I feel its worth $300 but in comparison to dropping engine or all the work to remove pan without engine seems like a great deal for the quality of it. They really thought of everything I hate to admit lol.

I'll see about posting a pic once done I feel this will solve the seep that turned into a leak but will keep people updated.
 

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Justin, this is how I do it and I rarely ever have any issues after. Take it back out, clean very very well as you know, wipe down with the brake cleaner that dries nearly instantly. Then remove the o-ring and use the Ford TA-31 and put some one the o-ring groove, put the o-ring back on, smear some RTV on the o-ring, set the inside piece back in the hole, goop up the treads very well before you thread the nut on with RTV sealant, put the nut on and snug it down, then goop more of the sealant all around the nut again. Sure it won't look nice, but who the heck crawls under your truck to look at the dipstick adapter. ;) LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
Justin, this is how I do it and I rarely ever have any issues after. Take it back out, clean very very well as you know, wipe down with the brake cleaner that dries nearly instantly. Then remove the o-ring and use the Ford TA-31 and put some one the o-ring groove, put the o-ring back on, smear some RTV on the o-ring, set the inside piece back in the hole, goop up the treads very well before you thread the nut on with RTV sealant, put the nut on and snug it down, then goop more of the sealant all around the nut again. Sure it won't look nice, but who the heck crawls under your truck to look at the dipstick adapter. ;) LOL.
Thanks for the advice and I did just that. When I put the strictly diesel adapter on my oil pan there was a nice gap on the bottom and their instructions just asked customers to check as it lets you know if the oil pan is/was warped. Mine had a gap not terrible but a gap. Also to clarify My new leak was only slightly but im ocd and just don't like them if I can fix them hahaha.


I'll never pay $300 for their kit and glad I didn't but I just felt is was a lazy fix for someone like myself who just don't like leaks hahaha. Tell you what though I sure felt uneasy after removing the o ring letting that inside adapter piece fall in the oil pan. But drove about 40 miles since and no leaks or issues.


I still need to install your hpop lines too believe it or not. Just trying to finish projects as much as I can before freezing temps hit.
 
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Discussion Starter #124
Well the last two months has been an up/down relationship with the truck hahaha. Had trouble with the dipstick tube adapter (later learned my oil pan was warped when installing the strictly diesel adapter [super over priced but can't argue with the results]) Then right as a closed the door on a moving trailer truck wouldn't start hahaha. New hpop and ipr and back on the the road. Truck has the slightest miss though that I can feel on the seat/butt so waiting on cable to plug in forscan and do buzztest and see what else I can learn. Truck starts quicker and honestly feels a little more pep with the new hpop/ipr/ipr pigtail though.

This summer going to:

a. winch bumper/winch
b. front receiver/winch*possible re-enforcement bracket (allows me to store winch in garage till trips come)
c. maybe explore WARN hidden winch kit but not liking price or the kit and bumper skirts etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
Some major changes caused a significant delay in the offroad goodies but still working on keeping the truck running best I can.

Next month going to:

New oil cooler o ring kit, injector o rings, and boots probably riffraff.

While the truck is opened up anything I should tackle?

-Parts replaced since 2016: motorcraft IPR/Pigtail, ICP, HPOP, GP Relay, Glow plugs, Valve cover, UVCH, turbo pedestal o rings, belt/tensioner, and fuel bowl reseal with redoing FPR and fuel line sleeves.

-Mods since 2016: AIS Intake, WW2, procomp LVL Kit, J.W. valvebody, 6.0L trans cooler, cnc fab hpop lines, pro comp shocks, and BFG A/T's,

What else would you recommend doing while its opened up?
 

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Discussion Starter #126 (Edited)
This weekend gonna do some work.

HAve the following:

Riffraff ccv mod kit and a diy catch can. Gonna let it vent to atmosphere through catch can for a week or two and see if anything drips out. If so i'll route from the outlet of the can back to intake. Then I have a oil cooler kit from riffraff too.

After the ccv mod and oil cooler re seal. gonna drain the 5w-40 and try rotella's new t6 15w-40 full synthetic. (says reduced oil consumption) and their website states cold pour only being like 7 degrees apart. I really enjoy the winter operation of the 5w-40 but the oil consumption is to high. I have zero external leaks, barley any blow by. SO hoping between 15w-40 and in the next couple of weeks new injector o rings I see a reduction or at least the normal 1-2. I can't remember 100% but feels like 3 quarts in last 2k miles. so fingers crossed.

Watched DieselTechRon's video and way simpler than I thought.

This darn truck is gonna be completely rebuilt by the time im done lol.

It was kind of pita to find 3/4in fittings with larger inside diameters. even with 1in to 3/4in adapters. this set up has more fittings than I'd like but offers the best flow I could find after checking out four stores.
 

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This weekend gonna do some work.



HAve the following:



Riffraff ccv mod kit and a diy catch can. Gonna let it vent to atmosphere through catch can for a week or two and see if anything drips out. If so i'll route from the outlet of the can back to intake. Then I have a oil cooler kit from riffraff too.



After the ccv mod and oil cooler re seal. gonna drain the 5w-40 and try rotella's new t6 15w-40 full synthetic. (says reduced oil consumption) and their website states cold pour only being like 7 degrees apart. I really enjoy the winter operation of the 5w-40 but the oil consumption is to high. I have zero external leaks, barley any blow by. SO hoping between 15w-40 and in the next couple of weeks new injector o rings I see a reduction or at least the normal 1-2. I can't remember 100% but feels like 3 quarts in last 2k miles. so fingers crossed.



Watched DieselTechRon's video and way simpler than I thought.



This darn truck is gonna be completely rebuilt by the time im done lol.



It was kind of pita to find 3/4in fittings with larger inside diameters. even with 1in to 3/4in adapters. this set up has more fittings than I'd like but offers the best flow I could find after checking out four stores.
Any way you could list or the parts you used to make the catch can? It would be great to see where you mount it too.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Any way you could list or the parts you used to make the catch can? It would be great to see where you mount it too.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
I'll get them tonight. Unless you have a North40 store though they may be different. Basically any agricultural line strainer will work. 1in diamtere to give you room for barbed fittings without restricting flow. I just got fancy with the adapters because the normal 3/4in barbed fittings had a way smaller inside diameter. so I found an adapter that had a much larger inside diameter but that required using a different threaded piece. I'll get the numbers and post them tonight though.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Previous design back on track. Got the truck to help with remodeling first home and truck has been switching from:

daily driver/work truck to hauler/camper and originally I wanted to turn the truck into a camper/overland type rig and its finally back on track.

Got a super good deal on a shortbed canopy that was carpeted from factory and the carpet kit for the bed for only $350. Then got some lumber to make a platform for camping. Its a super basic design that will change but this was about $100 from Home Depot and no screws/nails/bols/ and comes out in 5 minutes to haul stuff.

going to sand/paint the cap a semi gloss black over winter since summer is basically over.

Have a 6in thick memory foam mattress nearly as comfortable as home bed, cool camping toilet by thetford, and a nice little tailgate ladder to install. got everything just gotta install.

Next is a 1-200watt renology solar pannal, solar charge controller, two deep cycle battiers 100wat/hr, and an inverter. biggest challenge is shortbed.

probably going to install a folding ladder and a roof rack on the canpy and just have it braced underneath to attach things too and add strength to it.

Anyone ever add the vantech cap/canopy roof crossbars to a fiberglass canopy? seems very basic and sturdy to hold some extra gear and act as a support for the solar panel set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
Well just in case two updates:

-My ccv re-route from riffraff has had zero ill effects. On a rare occasion I'll get a whif of smoke at a long stoplight but roll up the window and your set. No leaks developed in the engine, and no drips on the ground from the outlet end of the hose. For my supercab short bed it ends up right in front of the skidplate for the gas tank or right under the mini rear door.

-Installed a NOCO Gen1 4amp onboard battery charger. Its using the supplied screws to hold it to the little plastic cover between the grill and hood latch. Not the best but flatout no better spot I could find in the engine bay lol. So far it appears to work really nicely. Also it appears to charge faster than my current battery tender with the same ratings. Whether or not that's better or worse for the battery who knows lol. The plug it routed under the hood latch and ran down to the drivers tow loop like the block heater cord.

Next plans: Wife and I had made some serious goals to a 1yr plus road trip with a shortbed truck camper for the truck but we have been paying down/eliminated most junk/gotten rid of debts except the side by side and the house but that's all in good time.

-Front receiver hitch, winch with carrier and wiring, to move front/back of truck, also I want to have my brother paint the red truck canopy and gery undertone on the body black so the truck is green and black.

pics of charger install soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #131 (Edited)
Ordered drawtite front hitch and in the next month solar kit with charger controller, 120amp/hr agm battery, and inverter, then gonna add some led lights with a switch to the ceiling of the canopy.

The front hitch will be for emergency winch use with a superwinch 12k with synthetic rope. Been researching and seems like a great kit for the price and money, cheaper than warn, lighter to move on the rare occasions, and superwinch has a decent name quality wise.

Here’s the winch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K150X2...olid=1SPS5VRN0IR92&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it


Next will be simple wiring kit and cradle.


There are a million made in china and usa receiver winch cradles, anyone with experience on a particular? super winch, harbor freight, warn, curt, off brand etc? For the price in steel it would be overkill price wise to build one and again it would be from fairly straight angles to get me over a muddy road wash out section couple times a year for camping etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
Receiver the following:

drawtite front receiver
smitybuilt 12k x20 winch
smittybuilt 12k winch cradle

This weekend going to see how I can fit any support braces.

For the front receiver it looks simple to add a couple of triangle support braces and maybe evan add an arm with a foot and run a bolt through some existing holes in the frame so seems simple enough and appears to be enough room.

The cradle is another story...

I feel one or two options appear simple but with drawbacks... Id rather not just rely on the one 2in receiver tube and a 5/8 hitch pin unless its a super straight pull. but...

Option A-Weld a small section of chain to each side of the winch cradle measured so that I can loop one end of each chain through the two front tow loops and use a bolt, d ring or something. That way the 2in receiver supports the weight but, for angled pulls the chain should be snug enough to support angles for brief moments and simple unclip when removing.

Option B

Weld two more receiver tubes to the front receiver and winch cradle so I would have three tubes/pins supporting in case of angled winch use.

Pros option A-Simple, have materials, cons-Measuring chains links could not be as snug or too snug a fit making it a pita?

Pros option B should be very strong and fairly simple, cons-Any warping could require cutting of three tubs vs just 1 and requires cutting/welding two more tubes on both the cradle and the front receiver.

Any thoughts or different ideas?

ink to the winch cradle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K23IP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

link to front receiver: https://www.etrailer.com/Front-Hitc...Super+Duty/1999/65022.html?VehicleID=19991046

trying to save space for pictures sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Front receiver installed last night, took just over 1.5hrs. I hate to admit it but it was almost heavier than the front bumper itself lol. This weekend going to some welding/grinding on the winch cradle to make solid arms that extend from the sides of the cradle and grab each tow loop. It will not be as strong as a full on winch bumper but again this will be used 1-2 times a year for some assistance not pulling me out of a mud pit etc. It will make the wife way more comfortable when we go off the beaten path more to show her some of the areas I grew up in vs the camp sites.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Completed the third undercoating of woolwax to touch up any spots from high wash areas during winter driving. Man im not snake oil guy but this stuff seriously saved my truck. I would argue with anyone its near 99% rust free even when the plugs are pulled for quarter/rocker panels (all sprayed as well) Yes you get a little dirty if you ever have to crawl under but I had to crawl under once for the dipstick adapter fix and once again in the summer for an oil change never get any dirtier than usual.

Just really nice peace of mind when the 21yr old truck is on the two post lift and its rust free vs all the brand new vehicles I see with the factory wax flaking off after only one winter.

Also exploring some tires soon. I figured I have till the end of next summer before needing new ones. I LOVE the BFGs and treadlife, road noise and snow/ice traction are as good as I could ever need but the tighter lug pattern just grabs and throws every rock/pebble on the road so I may be looking at the nitte ridge grapper or a true mud terrain to just keep from throwing rocks.

The extra wide/long duraflap mud flap set is holding up amazingly well and really keeps the truck much cleaners though. For anyone looking for a set that is dang near bulletproof give them a try! worth every penny and not much more than the cheapy plastic ones that break too.
 
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