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Discussion Starter #81
I guess I wasn't subscribed to my own build thread, sorry for the late response and glad ya like it man! PS I have a confession to make.... I ordered a long nipple fumoto oil drain valve for my truck and a buddies (he shall remain nameless for now...) Randomly, and I mean randomly my oil drain plug will leak about a 2in stain on the road.... it leaked once when I first got it for a few days all I did was use a 1/4in drive and barley snugged it. then maybe 6 months later again and its been fine for almost 8 months and then couple weeks ago it peed on the road again lol.

I figured the fumoto would be nice to nice get oil on my hands for once. I really looked hard at the possibility of something snagging it. I don't off road my truck its to heavy and if something ripped the valve off its probably sticking through my oil pan anyways.

ps anyone see a huge rise in craigslist scammers? I got a google voice number and wow they will even call you now.... "Im deployed to a combat zone, will you take a check and let my pick up service meet you?" I about lost my crap and just played along until they cought on I was either a retard or messing with them and they hung up lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Well ordered some towing goodies over the weekend. Not gonna lie its been fun towing some cars on weekends for some extra cash but I looked at my trucks specs and it say 17.5k???

Is this normal for a f250s total copacity? my truck has the helper springs, 3:73 gears, load range E 285/75R16s, auto, and my truck says 7600ISH on scale with full fluids and no body, so with me and gear probably 8k even meaning I can only pull a gooseneck/ 5th wheel as long as the dry trailer/cargo don't weigh more then 9.5k lol???? (legally) my hitch is rated at 10k for crying outloud lol...
 

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Discussion Starter #83
well tomorrow installing the john woods valve body and then not memorial day weekend, but after that installing the reese 5th wheel slider hitch with a gooseneck plate!

I figured out I am limited to basically 20k so figured 12k max for now. truck weighs 7600ish but couple hundred lb in gear, supplies and me hahaha.
 

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Once you remove the old man camper and all the draywers that will drop a few hundred pounds.

Ya 12k should work well. That's usually the heaviest a 5th wheel is for most folks too.

Let's hope this valve body swap goes well tomorrow. And you finally have the shifts you want lol
 

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Discussion Starter #85
well got the reese 5th wheel quick install kit installed. I am a little concerned but curious what you guys think:

there is one 5/8 carriage bolt grade and and a 1/2in u bolt on each of my frame brackets. is this enough? im thinking of adding another 5/8 grade 8 carriage bolt ( I have another hole I feel might be big enougn to put it in etc. the pic has red marks to identify.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
small update for what I know call BigGreen99 lol...

I went to move a 5th wheel and the tailgate would unlock from drivers side. you could tell the pass side would unlatch and I know something if up my tailgate handle normally clunked and now its smooth. Took me 25 minutes of messing around and I swear it magically came off. worst part... I had the torx bit, 1/2in to 3/8 adapter and ratchet whole time!!!!! I thought I had the tools in garage at the house lol...

so tonight going to pop off the panel and see whats going on. Also AC is acting crazy so have an appointment tomorrow morning with Ford who is now only 10 minutes up the street. I don't wanna spend the money but im crunched for time and I don't have the ac pressure kit.


so hopefully i'll have pictures of my tailgate fix or an order for parts and soon an update on the AC.

in the meantime Im replacing heater core hoses on my commuter car since she decided to steam clean the engine bay in the parking lot at work lol...

operation bigreen rescue little green was a success and hoses/clamps/special quick disconnect valves came in this morning. I thought it was funny I drive both a green 1999 commuter car and a green 1999 truck lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Also if you notice my front end still sits about an inch higher from the level kit plus moved like 5 5th wheels and one was little over 9klb.

Anyone install the timbrens or yellow blocks you install as a kind of spacer for the top overload equipped trucks? I was thinking about getting some to help the 18 year old rear springs lol. sway isn't too bad an issue yet... but im a shortbed f250 lol.
 

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Why not use f350 blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Why not use f350 blocks.
Didn't consider it to be honest lol. I'll do some research then. Also found out why my tail gate wouldn't open lol... plus I wasn't sure how long these springs would stay up higher. Installed them less then 6 months ago.

Normally f350 block is an taller?
 

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F350 blocks are 1 5/8" taller.
 
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Discussion Starter #91
Soo Ford didn't surprise me again...


they said for $1005.00 they said my ac control module wasn't getting power (the little heater/ac/air direction switches in dash) and my less then a year old vacuum pump wasn't working. Yet I hear it run when I key on engine off.


I think its extreamly high, but ive never swapped the ac control in the dash before, is it really that much work or is this something I can replace?

my issue is:


driving down the road ac or max ac setting its blowing cold with enough pressure then all or sudden its pressure drops drasticly and air temp is cool. then after a minute goes full blast/cold again and it keeps cycling.
 

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Soo Ford didn't surprise me again...


they said for $1005.00 they said my ac control module wasn't getting power (the little heater/ac/air direction switches in dash) and my less then a year old vacuum pump wasn't working. Yet I hear it run when I key on engine off.


I think its extreamly high, but ive never swapped the ac control in the dash before, is it really that much work or is this something I can replace?

my issue is:


driving down the road ac or max ac setting its blowing cold with enough pressure then all or sudden its pressure drops drasticly and air temp is cool. then after a minute goes full blast/cold again and it keeps cycling.
Think I'd check the relay and the resistor before I gave Ford a grand. Does it do it on a lower fan speed? If it doesn't then it sounds the the resistor is going bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
so the AC blows great on every setting, floor, center, defrost, low, med, high, and very high speed. But when im using it for a while this happens:


your driving the truck, and air is going fast and cold, then it just slows down pressure to the point you start getting warm fast. Then in about a minute pressure build again. and it keeps going low/high pressure the whole time. So in my eyes it makes sense maybe the panel isn't getting power.

Thanks for the info I will look how to diagnose the resistor though too.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
called gain to get clarification:

they said their technician checked all the pins for the resistor and relay and the control module was only receiving less then needed and no power sporadically and my vacuum pump has a bulging gasket that wont seal the whole time.


so I just filled out a warranty request on the vacuum pump and getting a quote from sunrise for the ac control module.
 
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Discussion Starter #95
Well ended up getting the AC dilemma all taken care of. Then drove 2000 miles round trip to Idaho for some family issues. Approx 17.5ish mpg average plus/minus a bit. Not bad considering I tried to keep it about 65-68.

Thinking I'm gonna order the front receiver hitch next months payday, then rig a quick disconnect wire kit for the front/rear.

Haven't needed a front winch yet but to be honest just want one too hahaha.
 

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I like this build, its cool to see a 7.3 going in to a newer super duty
 

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Discussion Starter #97
I like this build, its cool to see a 7.3 going in to a newer super duty
Maybe I misspoke? This is a 1999 7.3l, I have had 6.0L, and some 5.9L Cummins before but this is my first 7.3l. Im still drooling over the lowered build you guys have and too be honest I have NEVER been into a lowered truck before hahaha.




small update just to show you being cheap doesn't pay off... Had an AC issue and it ended up being a control module not getting power because it failed and my less than 1 yr old Dorman vacuum pump failed. my original wasn't working and the reservoir had a hole in it lol...

I thought it was a good idea at the time. but my Dorman was still under warranty and that one failed after two weeks :tard:

Finally ordered a Ford unit even though it was double the price, my time going to the UPS/FEDEX store, taking the pumps off, and having AC to defrost only in 108+ degree weather taught me something...



DON'T BE CHEAP WITH PARTS....

Looking at either doing the clear lenses lights next or finally getting the front hitch but we'll see!
 

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Discussion Starter #98
PS. I won't lie, one of my favorite aspects of my 6.0Ls was throwing the 2003 yr turbos on them... I didn't really work my truck except moving some trailers, towing friends, and my 4runner around.


Whats everyones thoughts on a 38R turbo vs the wicked wheel II? I googled it and enough people want a 7.3l to whistle (ya not everyone likes it and they'll get over it). Im still pretty new to the 7.3l though so whats the turbos everyone uses or recommends for some more sound and possibly performance?

I won't ever be upgrading injectors, and just have the AIS intake currently.
 

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Kc38r. Best on the market.
 
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