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It's been awhile since I worked on a 7.3 at all and I understand the 95 was a bastard year in many ways. I have a '95 E350 van here that started and ran for about half an hour then died and hasn't started since except one time with a fine mist of ether keeping it running for about 20 sec. I have a fuel pressure gauge installed and I'm seeing it pulse with each revolution of the engine (mech left pump). It pulses up to 45psi and then falls back to 40psi before it pulses again. I'm wondering if I should be seeing a steady 45psi and no leak down at all. Because of what I'm seeing I am suspect of the pressure regulator but before I tear deep into this van, because everything is hard to get to, I wanted to get opinions here. This vehicle has a correct 70k miles on it. It has a new starter just to eliminate the possibility of spinning too slow to fire the injectors as well. It has a new fuel filter and the tank is dropped so I can see fuel return going into a bottle and verified fuel is circulating and no air is coming through. It came to me as a basket case from another shop who began a 4x4 conversion but never completed it and I understand it sat parked for at least 6 months without being cranked before it came to me.
 

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It's been awhile since I worked on a 7.3 at all and I understand the 95 was a bastard year in many ways. I have a '95 E350 van here that started and ran for about half an hour then died and hasn't started since except one time with a fine mist of ether keeping it running for about 20 sec. I have a fuel pressure gauge installed and I'm seeing it pulse with each revolution of the engine (mech left pump). It pulses up to 45psi and then falls back to 40psi before it pulses again. I'm wondering if I should be seeing a steady 45psi and no leak down at all. Because of what I'm seeing I am suspect of the pressure regulator but before I tear deep into this van, because everything is hard to get to, I wanted to get opinions here. This vehicle has a correct 70k miles on it. It has a new starter just to eliminate the possibility of spinning too slow to fire the injectors as well. It has a new fuel filter and the tank is dropped so I can see fuel return going into a bottle and verified fuel is circulating and no air is coming through. It came to me as a basket case from another shop who began a 4x4 conversion but never completed it and I understand it sat parked for at least 6 months without being cranked before it came to me.
How are the batteries? These motors need a lot of amperage, and if the batteries are marginal, it might not be enough to run it. Clean the terminals if there's a lot of corrosion, and maybe jump it with a running vehicle and good heavy cables to give it that little extra.

Other thoughts... Do you have a scan tool to see if it's making high pressure oil? Check the HPOP reservoir, oil should be within about 1" of the top, if it's not, add some oil to the reservoir and see if it fires. You're seeing the fuel pressure pulse because of the mechanical pump getting a "bump" from the cam lobe on each rotation. I'm not sure if 40-45 is within spec, but I suspect it should be enough to get the motor to start/idle.
 
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Try a CPS?

Any smoke?

Need to get a scanner on it and do a buzz test if it's not smoking and check ICP and IPR %.

Please don't use ether, that stuff does not belong in a glow plug motor even if it's just to "try" it. It will easily crack a ring and do damage.
 

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New batteries, cables, and starter and it's spinning just fine. About the oil level, isn't the low pressure pump supposed to keep the reservoir full? Regardless I will check that right now. And last, I do not have a scan tool however I'm getting a guy out here who does have one to see if it'll spit out any codes
 

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I agree I hate to use ether and won't be again since I know it will crank. I do not have a scan tool however I'm getting someone out here with one to see what we can find out. I am getting intermittent smoke from it that smells of raw fuel but it's not consistent. It'll smoke for a few seconds and then quit and then do it again It appears the injectors are trying to fire but just not all the time.
 

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I checked the HPOP oil reservoir and it is full to the top. And I'm having a hard time getting anyone out here with a scanner. Whats my cheapest option for a scanner? I really don't want to buy one just for one vehicle but I guess I might have to
 

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I checked the HPOP oil reservoir and it is full to the top. And I'm having a hard time getting anyone out here with a scanner. Whats my cheapest option for a scanner? I really don't want to buy one just for one vehicle but I guess I might have to
I use a cheap (Mine was $9 on eBay) bluetooth OBD2 dongle in conjunction with the ForScan Lite app on my Android phone. They claim to be built around the ELM327 chip, but some are knock offs, mine probably was. Some work better than others. For $9 I took a chance. They do sell more expensive ones that are "guaranteed" to do the job.
 
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I use a cheap (Mine was $9 on eBay) bluetooth OBD2 dongle in conjunction with the ForScan Lite app on my Android phone. They claim to be built around the ELM327 chip, but some are knock offs, mine probably was. Some work better than others. For $9 I took a chance. They do sell more expensive ones that are "guaranteed" to do the job.
And does this work with the 95 model 7.3? I read up a little bit on it and saw several references to not working with the 7.3It certainly sounds worth a try but no point if I know in advance it won't work
 

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And does this work with the 95 model 7.3? I read up a little bit on it and saw several references to not working with the 7.3It certainly sounds worth a try but no point if I know in advance it won't work
Not sure about 95. I've read that 95 was an oddball year for that diagnostic connector, something about the ECU could be updated to use it with OBD2 or something. For $10, it's worth a shot though. And even if it doesn't work, it'll work on modern, OBD2 compliant vehicles to read codes and view live data. So not a waste by any means...
 
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By now, I would imagine most of the early 94s and 95s have been reflashed when in for service to enable the OBDII port. I'd take the chance as you wouldn't be out much. Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Yesterday evening I paid a guy to come out here and read the codes. We got a consistent "IDM failure to communicate" and it came back again each time we cleared codes. I'm pulling it this morning for inspection but my first guess is water damage because as i'm looking at it right now it is exposed to water dripping down from the windshield drip rail right on top of it. Talk about an absolutely horrible mounting location. So does anyone recommend a particular replacement as being the best and most resistant to water?
 

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Well the problem became very obvious when I pulled the IDM out for closer inspection. Unless this is some special liquid model I don't think they're supposed to make sloshing sounds when you shake them. This one seems to be full of water. Thanks to those who gave me good input here, I do appreciate it.
 

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Here is how the E-series vans attempted to solve the water intrusion problem: TSB 96-19-09
Cheers!
 

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Liquid cooled IDM, haha. Glad you found the problem!
 
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