[Tyrell]

Hello everyone. I have a 1995 7.3 that I rebuilt. I am now onto the wiring. I had just finished everything on my truck. But when I went to start it, it started cranking then I took and key out and it was still cranking. I had my buddy rip the wires off the battery because they started smoking. I replaced the solenoid and the relay. Also made sure the red wires weren’t touching any other wires (down on the solenoid). Now I can’t even touch my battery’s without the arcing out. When I disconnect my wires on the solenoid it no longer arcs out when I got to hook up the battery. I checked the relay. The whole wiring harness and the gem. Anyone have any idea? I was thinking maybe somehow I’m still getting power to my ignition but I’m completely lost. Anything helps!!

 

[White95f250]

How good are you with a multimeter?

Your answer determines my next response.

 

[Tyrell]

I have one but I’m not the best at using one. I’m sure if I sat down and really learned it.

 

[1Dieselman]

Are you sure the wires on the inner fender starter relay and starter solenoid are correct. Does it still try to turn over if the small wire going to the fender relay is removed?
Should only be two wires going to the starter solenoid, large wire to large stud, always hot, and small wire from front of fender relay to small stud on starter

 

[White95f250]

Get the meter out and check you 12V solenoid wire to the starter. Should only get power in "Start" position with key.

 

[Tyrell]

Are you sure the wires on the inner fender starter relay and starter solenoid are correct. Does it still try to turn over if the small wire going to the fender relay is removed?
Should only be two wires going to the starter solenoid, large wire to large stud, always hot, and small wire from front of fender relay to small stud on starter

Yes at first I had them swapped around so the ignition was always hot. I think it burned out my starter relay so I went and replaced it. Then when I hooked my wires up it did the same thing. I did a light test on the relay and it wasn’t showing anything on the post when I turn my ignition but the one that’s always supposed to be hot was lighting up.

Are you sure the wires on the inner fender starter relay and starter solenoid are correct. Does it still try to turn over if the small wire going to the fender relay is removed?
Should only be two wires going to the starter solenoid, large wire to large stud, always hot, and small wire from front of fender relay to small stud on starter

so I had them switched originally I fixed it now. But my relay isn’t getting power on the ignition side when I turn my key. Would that be the relay? Or is there something causing the relay to not have power?

 

[Tyrell]

Get the meter out and check you 12V solenoid wire to the starter. Should only get power in "Start" position with key.

When I checked it with a light tester I wasn’t getting any power to the igniton post on the relay when I turned the key to start.

 

[1Dieselman]

Is the truck an automatic or manual. Auto could be an issue with the range sensor, manual could be clutch/neutral safety switch. Have you tried a remote starter button hooked to the small relay post to see if it will turn over

 

[Tyrell]

The truck is a manual, what’s the remote starter button trick?

 

[Tyrell]

Is the truck an automatic or manual. Auto could be an issue with the range sensor, manual could be clutch/neutral safety switch. Have you tried a remote starter button hooked to the small relay post to see if it will turn over

Here’s another interesting thing. When I go to jump the starter relay nothing happens. Even though my post that’s always supposed to be hot is hot. Maybe the new relay burnt out?

 

[Patrick Feeley]

Since it is a manual, the clutch pedal position switch will need to be jumped (or clutch depressed). Cheers!

 

[1Dieselman]

Does it even click? Did you burn up the starter? Using a remote start button will let you bypass ignition switch, neutral switch, (please make sure it is in neutral) etc.
Did you burn up the grounds going to the engine?

 

[Tyrell]

Does it even click? Did you burn up the starter? Using a remote start button will let you bypass ignition switch, neutral switch, (please make sure it is in neutral) etc.
Did you burn up the grounds going to the engine?

No clicking. Trucks in neutral no clicks other then some clicks from the glow plug relay. The grounds are all fine

 

[Tyrell]

Does it even click? Did you burn up the starter? Using a remote start button will let you bypass ignition switch, neutral switch, (please make sure it is in neutral) etc.
Did you burn up the grounds going to the engine?

Well I put a new relay in today and it makes a click but on if I hold the key down for a while. Also the ignition post on the relay isn’t getting hot when I turn the ignition. Honestly at this point I want to bypass the ignition. But how would I use a remote start button. Like how do I go about doing that?

 

[1Dieselman]

Hook one wire to a positive battery terminal or to the rear stud of the fender relay (where all the constant hot wires are connected), pull the small slip on connector of the relay and connect the other wire to that stud. That should engage that relay which should engage the starter when you push the button

 

[Blacktailrattler]

Mine did the same, took two relays or solenoids on the fender to get a good one. Also smoked my starter the last time. Finally got a good one.