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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Those of you without upfitter switches, where are you getting your 12v power from to power exterior accessories like led light bars? I have a 32" light bar and a 20" light bar that I need to wire up and need a 12v source that can handle a additional 15-20 amps. On my f150 I have a 10mm stud behind the engine bay fuse box that I can power a few accessories with. I tried to remove the cover behind the engine bay fuse box, but because the engineer decided someone with hands bigger than a child shouldn't remove that cover I can't unlatch the fender side of the cover.

Going directly off the batteries isn't really a option. I have added 1/0awg cable to the factory positive terminals due to my Ln230amp alternator. (and I would rather not have a huge rats nest of wires all over anyway)
 

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Those of you without upfitter switches, where are you getting your 12v power from to power exterior accessories like led light bars? I have a 32" light bar and a 20" light bar that I need to wire up and need a 12v source that can handle a additional 15-20 amps. On my f150 I have a 10mm stud behind the engine bay fuse box that I can power a few accessories with. I tried to remove the cover behind the engine bay fuse box, but because the engineer decided someone with hands bigger than a child shouldn't remove that cover I can't unlatch the fender side of the cover.

Going directly off the batteries isn't really a option. I have added 1/0awg cable to the factory positive terminals due to my Ln230amp alternator. (and I would rather not have a huge rats nest of wires all over anyway)
So, I added a small auxiliary fuse block. I ran power from the battery to the fuse block (8 gauge should be enough), but through a 230amp relay. This makes that fuse block only active when key is on. I use relays for the lights as well, but it isn't necessary, you can skip the relays by switching the grounds and not the power.

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Discussion Starter #3
So, I added a small auxiliary fuse block. I ran power from the battery to the fuse block (8 gauge should be enough), but through a 230amp relay. This makes that fuse block only active when key is on. I use relays for the lights as well, but it isn't necessary, you can skip the relays by switching the grounds and not the power.
I was basically going to copy the oem setup since you can't find a upfitter harness anywhere. (there is one currently on ebay...for $299.99. No way in hell am I paying that for a used harness) Except the relay would of been in the engine bay, so I only have a 16/18awg wire going into the cab to a rocker switch. I might see if I can tap into my fuse that I added when I installed the 1/0awg cable. Or try again to remove the cover that goes over the I assume stud at the back of the engine bay fuse box. Thank you for your input.
 

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I was basically going to copy the oem setup since you can't find a upfitter harness anywhere. (there is one currently on ebay...for $299.99. No way in hell am I paying that for a used harness) Except the relay would of been in the engine bay, so I only have a 16/18awg wire going into the cab to a rocker switch. I might see if I can tap into my fuse that I added when I installed the 1/0awg cable. Or try again to remove the cover that goes over the I assume stud at the back of the engine bay fuse box. Thank you for your input.
You can tap into the back of the cjb, where the up fitter harness would plug In.... I've done that too.
Pull the cjb, locate the relay for the upfitter and find the hot.

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