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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, new guy here. Been lurking for a few weeks and finally signed up the other day, this place is a wealth of information and seems like a very friendly place compared to some other forums. Anyway, on to my question.

I found a 2007 F350 reg. cab, duallie at the local dealership 63,000 miles auto trans, 4x4, XLT model etc...wasn't really looking to buy anything but I think the price is certainly right for a 1 ton diesel truck. The truck is a local trade - I know who the previous owner was (he has since passed away) and I also know the truck was used to pull a gooseneck livestock trailer - frequently. This particular dealership did all the maintenance and provided me with maintenance records. They had everything...even all the oil changes (noticed they used 15 40 oil), but the only thing that really caught my eye was 4 injectors have been replaced, something done to the turbo (wasn't really clear with the abbreviations on the document) egr cooler replaced and oil cooler replaced and the fuel pump (and some other fuel system work - again not really clear). All this was done within the last two years and the truck has been sitting on the lot for about 8 months, so I'm guessing less that 20,000 miles on all the new stuff. I'm also sure the truck is completely stock...just can't see a 70 yr old livestock dealer dialing up the smoke...

I've done enough reading to know I should take some kind of scan tool to check coolant temp vs engine oil temp when I get it warmed up when I go test drive it.

My concerns are:
1) how much life should I expect out of the new EGR cooler and oil cooler?
2) should I be concerned about the amount of time the truck has been parked?

3) I've read a bunch of stuff all over but it's been hard for me to decipher some of it because it seems that there were only a few common problems throughout the 6.0 run and different years had some different issues. What issues do the 2007 6.0's have?

4) I plan to use the truck to tow different stuff and it will probably get some unloaded street use for picking up parts or whatever I need to. Previous owner said it got bad fuel mileage. What can I do to improve that? I would like to eventually tune the truck and I know that's supposed to help, but anything else? Will an EGR delete help in this department? No smog testing where I live... Synthetic oil?

5) Anything obvious to look/listen for while I have it out on a test drive?

Any input or opinions are welcome...sorry for the long post, just trying to get all the relevant info out there.

one more thing...what in the world does STC stand for? from what I've read it's some kind of high pressure oil fitting....
 

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STC stands for Snap To Connect-it's the type of fitting the high pressure oil system used to connect the branchtube to the HPOP. It was prone to failure, and replaced with a one piece threaded fitting.

You have the right idea, get a scangauge, and monitor ECT vs EOT (coolant temp vs oil temp) once the truck has reached operating temperatures on a flat section of highway at 60ish. The difference (oil temp will be higher) should be within a few degrees. Anything approaching 15 points to a restricted oil cooler, which can and will kill the egr cooler and then the headgaskets. I wouldn't be concerned with the time the truck has been sitting, the maintenance records sound promising. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update: Drove the truck today, actually they let me take it for the weekend. All was well until I got out to put fuel in it and smelled hot brakes...found the front driver side brakes were hot. Not smoking, just hot. I also noticed the front tires are worn funny so I think something is up with the front end...ball joints maybe and I think 8 months of sitting may have caused that brake caliper to become a little sticky. Other than that the truck seems to run great, lots of power, trans seems to shift good, I just wish it would shift a little earlier like before the tach hits 2000 rpm. I haven't checked ect vs eot yet, that's tomorrow along with jacking up the front end and trying to figure out exactly what's up with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well turns out that my scan tool doesn't do live data...so I still don't know what EOT vs ECT is...but my guy feeling is it's OK since the oil cooler and the egr cooler were replaced recently. I discovered that it definately DOES need balljoints and I found a wet spot (like oil seepage) on the intake piping...the tube that goes from the turbo to the intercooler. Looks like it's been doing it for a while but might indicate that there is a seal leaking on the turbo. Is this common? Is it something I should be worried about? The more I drive the truck the more I like it. Just don't want to be stuck with a huge repair bill right after I buy it.
 

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Well turns out that my scan tool doesn't do live data...so I still don't know what EOT vs ECT is...but my guy feeling is it's OK since the oil cooler and the egr cooler were replaced recently. I discovered that it definately DOES need balljoints and I found a wet spot (like oil seepage) on the intake piping...the tube that goes from the turbo to the intercooler. Looks like it's been doing it for a while but might indicate that there is a seal leaking on the turbo. Is this common? Is it something I should be worried about? The more I drive the truck the more I like it. Just don't want to be stuck with a huge repair bill right after I buy it.
If you like it and want to buy it take all that info and use it to your advantage in the negotiation. Either they can fix it before you pick it up or they can knock the price down accordingly.
 

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Personally, there's no way I'd even consider buying a truck without knowing every little possible detail.

Looks can be deceiving on 6.0L. Either pony up for a ScanGauge, or an Edge Insight CS/CTS if you know you're dead set on getting a 6.0L. You're going to need it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's what I was thinking...I should probably upgrade my cheapo scan tool at the very least. I got to thinking last night...their asking price was 25,000...said they'd sell it for 19,500 but they would need to fix a few things (ball joints and windshield squirter) to pass inspection so I doubt they're going any lower. I also have a hard time ponying up for the diesel when it don't get hardly any better mileage than the same thing with a gas engine. From reading on here it's going to cost about $3,000-$4,000 or more just in parts to fix the known issues depending on how far you want to go, and I know people have done it cheaper, but it seems the right way to go is:

BPD kit (EGR Delete + cold weather oil cooler kit)
Head studs
Blue spring in fuel pressure regulator
STC fitting update
custom tune (for better mileage and EGR delete)
bigger exhaust

I fugure anything worth doing is worth doing right. So after you 'fix" it, you're pretty much back up to list price and I'm not so sure it's a good deal after that. On the plus side, the truck drove good and I really like the way the transmission shifts compared to any other diesels I've been in. That's about the newest one I've been in...Dad just got a leftover 2011 a week ago but I haven't been for a ride yet.

I'm in a bit of a pickle since I like the body styling and pretty much everything about the truck but I'm not sure I'm ready to commit to a 6.0 that needs more attention that a diesel should (in my opinion), meaning having to modify it to make it reliable. We have lots of older diesels on the farm and they just work without any special attention. My cousin has a cummins 5.9 and he just changes the oil and keeps fuel in it and it keeps going...no issues. Anyway thanks for the comments...but unless the come down on the price some more I don't think this is the one for me.
 

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Update: Drove the truck today, actually they let me take it for the weekend. All was well until I got out to put fuel in it and smelled hot brakes...found the front driver side brakes were hot. Not smoking, just hot. I also noticed the front tires are worn funny so I think something is up with the front end...ball joints maybe and I think 8 months of sitting may have caused that brake caliper to become a little sticky. Other than that the truck seems to run great, lots of power, trans seems to shift good, I just wish it would shift a little earlier like before the tach hits 2000 rpm. I haven't checked ect vs eot yet, that's tomorrow along with jacking up the front end and trying to figure out exactly what's up with that.
That's what I was thinking...I should probably upgrade my cheapo scan tool at the very least. I got to thinking last night...their asking price was 25,000...said they'd sell it for 19,500 but they would need to fix a few things (ball joints and windshield squirter) to pass inspection so I doubt they're going any lower. I also have a hard time ponying up for the diesel when it don't get hardly any better mileage than the same thing with a gas engine. From reading on here it's going to cost about $3,000-$4,000 or more just in parts to fix the known issues depending on how far you want to go, and I know people have done it cheaper, but it seems the right way to go is:

BPD kit (EGR Delete + cold weather oil cooler kit)
Head studs
Blue spring in fuel pressure regulator
STC fitting update
custom tune (for better mileage and EGR delete)
bigger exhaust

I fugure anything worth doing is worth doing right. So after you 'fix" it, you're pretty much back up to list price and I'm not so sure it's a good deal after that. On the plus side, the truck drove good and I really like the way the transmission shifts compared to any other diesels I've been in. That's about the newest one I've been in...Dad just got a leftover 2011 a week ago but I haven't been for a ride yet.

I'm in a bit of a pickle since I like the body styling and pretty much everything about the truck but I'm not sure I'm ready to commit to a 6.0 that needs more attention that a diesel should (in my opinion), meaning having to modify it to make it reliable. We have lots of older diesels on the farm and they just work without any special attention. My cousin has a cummins 5.9 and he just changes the oil and keeps fuel in it and it keeps going...no issues. Anyway thanks for the comments...but unless the come down on the price some more I don't think this is the one for me.

The 6.0 redlines at 4k or so. Most tuners set it to 4150. Shifting before 2k really bothers the he11 out of me. If you want it to short shift any tuner can write you a custom tune to do that but Matt at gearhead tunes short shift by default.

Don't assume because the egr cooler and oil cooler were change in the last 2 years they're good to go. You CAN NOT ASSUME with a 6.0. You have to monitor the EOT and ECT for the delta. The cheap way is a scangaugeII or get an Edge Insight if you are sure you're getting a 6.0. You will need it anyway.

While head studs and a BPD oil cooler are really great addition to the 6.0 they are not requirements for reliability. You seem handy enough to do your own work and you should be able to handle the issues yourself for $1k or less.

Flush it right with Restore and Restore Plus or VC-9 and change the coolant to a Cat EC-1 Rated ELC and get the gold G-05 crap out of there. Delete the egr if you can or replace the egr cooler with a BPD cooler. Replace the oil cooler with an oem if necessary. Put a coolant filter on. use a 5w40 synthetic oil and change it every 6k-7k. Throw a couple bottles of Rev-X in it with your first oil change. You should have a pretty reliable 6.0 then. Don't do head gaskets unless you need them. If you want to add a BPD oil cooler great, they are a great upgrade but not a requirement for a reliable 6.0. Doing the work above yourself you are easily in for under $1k. Throw an SCT tuner on it with some street and tow tunes and don't look back.

Make the dealer fix any known issues like brakes, ball joints etc. before you buy it. If you don't know that the oil cooler is clogging they certainly won't tell you.

The 6.0 is a great motor that gets a bad wrap. IMO the 4 injectors were the result of the 15w40 dino oil and not synthetic. The paraffin wax in the oil causes varnish buildup on the spool valves causing them to stick. The oil cooler/egr cooler is the result of the G-05 Gold coolant Ford uses. Turbo probably just needed cleaning.

$19,500 isn't too bad a price for a dually with that mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I guess that's good news for me...So an EGR delete, a coolant filter, and a good coolant flush and fill with EC-1 should do it if the EOT and ECT temps check out? I use Synthetic oil in everything I own so I’d definitely change that anyway. I'd be sure make them fix anything that has to do with a Maine state inspection (ball joints, brakes and windshield squirter in this case) before I bought it. Also as far as the shifting goes, it’s a very minor complaint, but good to know that short shifting is an option with a custom tune.

I have the records right in front of me....Turbo work, EGR cooler and oil cooler all done on 9/28/10...and he traded the truck about 3 - 4 months after that, but I don’t know how many miles on them…so still a good idea to check as others have said. Also coolant flush and oil change done at that time. I be SURE to check if I decide to pursue it any farther, but I don't expect to find anything wrong with the oil cooler.

I'm not dead set on a 6.0 but I really like the ford trucks of this vintage and they are in my price range. I want one old enough so the price is right, and the issues are known, but new enough so rust isn’t an issue. Also, I've always wanted a diesel and it's getting close to time to replace the 01 F-150 that I have now...210,000 on it but I think rust is going to get it before it dies mechanically. I’m not in a huge hurry to buy because the F-150 should be good for another year or two. I saw this one and thought I should at least check it out…it seems like it’s a decent price but I’m looking for a DEAL!

Anyway, thanks for the info I really appreciate the input from you guys with 1st hand experience with these trucks. I'm going back in Thursday to speak with the salesman. I guess we'll see how it goes.
 

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and I found a wet spot (like oil seepage) on the intake piping...the tube that goes from the turbo to the intercooler.
Seepage on the blue CAC boots is normal. The CCV (crank case vent, vents into the turbo) will create the oil on the CAC boot that you see in the picture. It does cause issues with the material. Mine ended up shredding. I got new set from RiffRaff Diesel for a good price.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
I wouldn't be too disappointed if they sold it tomorrow...I don't really NEED a 1 ton dual wheel truck for anything a F-250 or 350 single rear wheel would work fine for use on the farm. I also don't NEED to buy something right now and honestly I'd rather have a crew cab (in case anyone missed it this one is a reg. cab)...but I'm a cheap bastard and priorities are work truck first, family hauler second. This one would be a good work truck, but a poor family hauler. Other priorities are good working condition and NO RUST, this one will be in good working condition (before I'd buy it) and is not even starting to rust. I'm sure it's CHEAPER than a comparable crew cab...and it also has a KNOWN history. Those two things are big for me.
 

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keep looking, this isn't your truck. But take what you've learned here and get the ScanGauge so you'll be ready when the crew cab shows up.

For what it's worth, I have the 250, and already I know that when the time comes to replace it it will be a dually, and I've never even towed anything with it yet.

Be aware the big fuel tank only comes on the long bed, and a long bed/crew cab is a very long truck. I like my supercab. I would not have gone with a regular due to the occasional passengers. I don't want them getting too comfy back there in a crew. The dogs will be fine in the super cab.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yep, not the truck for me. That's the decision I'm coming around to. I have a wife, 2 kids. I have no desire for a long bed on anything but a reg cab. If I was getting a truck just for me this would be it but that's not the case. I like the function of the long bed...but right now I think the crew cab outweighs that given my situation. I'm glad I took it for the weekend though...I learned a bunch and will put it to good use when I look at the next one. I think this rig will make someone a good truck.
 
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