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When the software does the click test, and the system passes -- that means that electrically the system is good(as far as the PCM knows)
there is no feedback on the click test except your ears hearing the clicks -- the driver circuit in the FICM can be bad and still report to the PCM that it done the job
so, either a substitute FICM or hang another injector on the harness to test is a prudent step

Hard to tell on the internet or by pictures alone, but
I would not bother putting injectors in until you find the source of the metal -- if that means a tear down then so be it -- I would want to know the engine was sound before spending anything more on it
 
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Discussion Starter #62
Yeah that sounds like a good idea. Also when I did the oil change the oil didn’t look bad coming out of the pan, there was some sticky gooey **** on the drain plug, not sure wtf that was. But the oil for the most part didn’t seem like there was much metal in it. I only really saw metal in the filter housing oddly enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Is there any other good way to test if power is going to the injectors? Would a multimeter work or does it pulse too fast for that?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Update: it started clattering, and fired up. Took it down the street and it ran decent, def didn’t have all of the power, but ran decent. Now it’s running really rough and I hear 3 injectors click when I turn the key on. Injectors shot...?
 

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All you had to do is post up on PSN and your engine magically started, lol ...... IMO you get better help here than there ONLY because PSN just doesn't have the "activity" it used to.

I said it once and I will say it again ..... you need to verify that your fuel system is working well with no bubbles. The tests are free. Then you need to consider getting the FICM tested.

Any amount of "gooey oil" can result in "stiction" of the injector spool valves. With cranky injectors, glow plugs (and even the block heater) can help on start up in 80 degree weather. Gooey oil with HEUI injectors is not good. Neither is metal. Micron size metal may have gotten past the oil filter.

I would STILL recommend sending in an oil sample - if you still have the old oil. Metal content in the oil is not limited to what you can see.

Best of luck. Glad it got started, it never would have with your aftermarket cap and filter combo ...... Now, hopefully, not too much damage was done.
 
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Discussion Starter #66
This is what’s happening right now... what does this point to? Putting 2 youtube links in.
 

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Sticky-gooey oil at the drain plugs was most likely more of the metal you found at the bottom of the oil filter canister, held by the magnet.

Nothing in those two videos sounds very healthy. I'd be pulling that motor apart before deciding if it's worth getting the FICM tested.
 

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That lope while cranking would be my biggest/first concern. Sorry I haven't read through all of the post but have you pulled the low pressure oil regulator and checked it for debris? As already mentioned I wouldn't spend any money on it until the cause of the base engine lope is identified.

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The lope is because only one injector is trying to fire -- listen closely, the base crank sounds fine
in the previous vid there you can hear the only injector clicking

Just as well quit trying to start the engine until you get all the injectors clicking
do a click test with ForScan and you can tell which injectors are working
 

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I dunno, that's a pretty hard knock for an injector trying to fire. The initial rollover is fine, then once oil pressure is established I sware that sounds like a valve hitting a piston once a lifter fills. The knock is at half time with the cranking, so injector or valve. But then I've had a bad attitude for the last two weeks.

I know someone who is going to read that and say, "just two weeks?".
 

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The lope is because only one injector is trying to fire -- listen closely, the base crank sounds fine
in the previous vid there you can hear the only injector clicking

Just as well quit trying to start the engine until you get all the injectors clicking
do a click test with ForScan and you can tell which injectors are working
After going back and listening again I think you are right. The engine spins over fine the first couple of revolutions and then the lope starts. That tap sound starts with the lope which doesn't sound healty to me either but I'm going back to my corner now as this is well above my troubleshooting ability, hell I would be on here asking you guys for help if that were my truck.

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I dunno, that's a pretty hard knock for an injector trying to fire. The initial rollover is fine, then once oil pressure is established I sware that sounds like a valve hitting a piston once a lifter fills. The knock is at half time with the cranking, so injector or valve. But then I've had a bad attitude for the last two weeks.

I know someone who is going to read that and say, "just two weeks?".
Some would call me an old curmudgeon on a good day, but since May 22 when some fine upstanding citizen stole my truck, trailer, and 4 wheeler, I been just a little more grumpy -- so I'll let you slide on the 'attitude'

I think the hard knock may be one of the other injectors trying to fire, but also may be a timing or fuel quantity(stuck tip) issue
either way, there is no need to crank the engine until the injectors do a proper pre-start click
 

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First establish that the current injectors are bad -- then consider a path
sticking injectors can be cleaned with a solvent
find the one that clicks
will moving the connector to the adjacent injector also click?
 

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Hydro -

Belated sorry to hear of your truck. On a few other sites where you can add a description to your handle, I've got Curmudgeon ....... since about 2005. More than just a few weeks.

It's always hard to tell with not being there, to me it just sounds nastier than an injector. I hope not. Considering the lack of chatter on engagement, the metal found at the bottom of the oil canister, goop on the magnetic drain plug (we all have some), the possibility of the oil filter bypass may be open at the initial start, I'm wondering if the spools are hampered by fine metal particles.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Welp just unplugged some injectors and found out that I have 7 bad injectors! Cylinder number one injector clicks fine, so I unplugged number one and connected number one wire to number 3, no click. Also cranks over and sounds perfectly healthy with number one injector unplugged.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Oh and when I say perfectly healthy while cranking over, I mean it doesn’t have that “knock” from the injector trying to fire. It cranks over smoothly and sounds like all cylinders have even compression. No fast cranking spots or anything. So, that being said, is this most likely injectors? Cause I’d say so.
 

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Oh and when I say perfectly healthy while cranking over, I mean it doesn’t have that “knock” from the injector trying to fire. It cranks over smoothly and sounds like all cylinders have even compression. No fast cranking spots or anything. So, that being said, is this most likely injectors? Cause I’d say so.
Thats good news. I would say say you for sure have bad injectors after your last post. I guess the mystery is why/what is the metal and if you just put in new injectors without addressing that are you going to be back in this same position after a few miles...

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