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So to start out I just bought this truck at the start of August and its just been a **** show, I am 24 and spent 3 months prior to that in Alaska, working to buy a truck so I can commute from Washington to Montana for work, and in the last 3 months it spent more time in the shop then driving and I'm just loosing a lot of money at this point. So now that I'm off my soap box I'll give the details.

Its a 06 f250, has 248k mi on the clock. I bought it for 12,000 and prior to that I did a pre purchase inspection.

The shop advised that AC works but was stuck on defrost, they noted there appeared to be a coolant leak somewhere, needed a oil change, power steering flush, possible oil leak and possible power steering leak, oil appeared to be leaking from oil cooler housing in the valley of the engine, passenger side valve may be leaking but unable to determine, radiator clamps may be loose, driver side lbj had play, diff fluid looks ok but rear diff was low and t case fluid dark.

They said it was a good deal at 12k, and can fix it up and have it running top notch after all said above was addressed, and should be fine to drive to work.

At this point I hadn't drove the truck myself yet as the seller dropped it off after I scheduled the pre purchase inspection, and the shop drove it 20 miles and said everything checked out.

Buy the truck and pick it up from the shop the following day, this is all in Montana so I had to drive it back to WA, I drove around got food and stuff, feeling the truck out, and before I left town for home I got fuel, and decided to check the fluids, when I opened the hood there was oil splattered all over the oil filter and dipstick area/ on the hood above. So I immediately called the shop and they said to drop it off and they would look at it on Monday (This was the end of Friday so they were closed for the weekend).

When they inspected it the mechanic and service advisor were both adamant that it wasn't oil and instead was coolant or diesel, so instead of looking for oil leaks they found the radiator was cracked and then they put down for the diagnostic as "Did not any fuel leakage. Found the radiator was cracked at top causing coolant to spray. As well as oil has sprayed out of the intercooler boots, and pcv system is failing as oil is coming from that going into the turbo to intercooler. As well as bushing have failed for the pcv system and letting oil leak from the intake.

So I approved all of the fluid changes and a new radiator. When they started to dig in the said the inner axle seals were bad and leaking and needed to be replaced and also that my parking brake assembly had rusted off and I wasn't able to use that, but that my brakes still functioned. When I declined the brake work they somehow thought that meant to only do half of the axle seals on the truck.

Never got a quote or explanation on the pcv system and after looking into the oil spray myself I discovered someone had replaced the o-ring on the oil dip stick and it had shrunk and was spraying from there. So I assumed I fixed that issue and started driving it.

Well its been 2 weeks since that and I've driven her a total of 700 - 800 miles, it was fine until the last 200 miles, it seems to lack power now, I can't go up hills at 70 like I used to and I have to the truck at 80 - 100% load with 20lbs of boost and even then I'm only going 50. So this Friday I brought it to a different shop in Idaho to have them look at the two CEL that the truck has been throwing. P0402 (EGR Pressure Flow) P1335 (EGR position sensor Min. stop performance)

I stated I would like to just replace the whole EGR unit cause its probably original and has 1/4 of a million miles on it. They said it would just most likely need a cleaning and that they rarely need replaced.

Bring it in Friday (11/4) and this is there notes:
  • Exhaust leaks and found none.
  • Checked and cleared MAF sensor
  • Checked and cleaned exhaust back pressure sensor
  • Checked EGR Volt. at idle. Spec is between .7 and .8 volts and the valve was showing 1.23 volts
  • Checked ground and found it was bad
  • Replaced egr valve and pig tail
  • Egr Volt with KOEO was now 7.3 volts which is within specs
  • Test drove vehicle to ensure no codes return and truck ran well.

They said since the egr was over volting that the P0402 Code shouldn't come back and was apart of that issue. Great everything they did sounded relative and straightforward.

Truck was on like a quarter tank so after picking it up I drove it 16 miles to a gas station and the entire time the truck felt amazing and like it should. After I got fuel and was pulling out onto the road and my truck started to surge and buck like it was starving for fuel or air, and had no power. Old lady was behind me and said it started rolling grey smoke. I pulled over into the next parking lot and reved the engine in Neutral and it seemed fine. Get back on road and it tried stalling out/ lagging real bad so this time I just stomped on it and the truck hesitated and then cleared up in 2 - 3 seconds and started to pull hard. Drove another 5 miles down the road fine and I stop again for 10 minutes and let it idle. Hesitates getting on road for a few seconds and then starts pulling hard again. Drove it home 10 more miles without issue.

This morning after driving for 10 minutes and the idling for 5 minutes waiting inline for coffee truck almost dies pulling onto street. Entire time puking out lots and lots of white smoke. Pull on side street and gun it, hestiates and smoke goes from white to grey/ black and starts pulling hard and smokes gone.

So honestly I'm not sure whats going on. CEL came back on after I got gas and pulled into the parking lot next door after it stalling pulling out and I reved the engine in Neutral.

Previous owner had the Turbo rebuilt after they bought it but they didn't own it for long before selling it to me.

Sorry for this all being a lot but I figured its best if yall knew everything leading up to this and I just have a few questions for you to clarify somethings for me.

First off the 1st mechanic said " The pcv system is failing and letting oil go into the turbo then the into the intercooler, as well as the bushing have failed in the pcv system and letting oil leak from the intake" From how they explained it, the system sounds like it helps control the vaccum of the turbo? I've only owned a 2.7 tacoma before this truck, so I'm very familiar with how some of these systems work. on my yota the pcv was just a valve on the top of the engine.

2nd after researching the p0402 code and looking at a couple of fourm posts like:
p0402 code | Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
There seems to be a lot of people pointing to the DPFE sensor, but I've also seen it mentioned there isn't even one on a 6.0? The last shop that replaced the EGR noted they had checked and cleaned the exhaust back pressure sensor already so it doesn't seem to be the culprit.

So I guess my questions are:
  • What is the pcv system and if it is acutally leaking oil into the turbo could this be the culprit and causing issues with the EGR?
  • Why after the EGR valve being replaced is the truck now surging and stuttering like it has no fuel or air flow? I had 80 mi range before E, could I have clogged the fuel filter and thats causing the surging? Or is the white smoke more indicative of a stuck injector or bad glow plug?

When staring from a stop the smoke goes from black / grey to white. Anyways sorry for the mile long post, hopefully in all my rambling these is a clue haha. I just can't afford to keep having the truck down and throwing money into it. If you actually read all this and have any insight it would be very much appreciated
 

· Compression Ignition Addict
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12,577 Posts
There is much that is wrong with what you are being told.

There isn't a DPFE sensor on a 6.0L

You do not have a Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (PCV), you have a Closed Crankcase Ventilation system (CCV). The difference is that you should not pressure up the crankcase (not as much anyway).

Venting oil into the intake from the CCV is a common occurrence, it is designed that way. Thing is, you shouldn't leak a LOT into the turbo inlet. The coalescing element that knocks some of the oil out of the CCV vapors might be bad, who knows. If you have old CAC boots, they will degrade from the oil. It is normal. Silicone boots are better then the originals at resisting the oil's affects.

We have NO WAY of telling you if you have more oil than you should that is getting into the intake - EXCEPT - you need to have a test done to see if your crankcase pressure is excessive. Numbers don't lie. Oil shouldn't be SPRAYING from anywhere.

Can you verify what the fuel level ACTUALLY is in the tank? The level indicator might not be accurate. Making sure you are getting good fuel and good fuel pressure is critical.

Hopefully they installed an OEM EGR valve. Aftermarket ones can cause problems.

Are you losing coolant? You MIGHT have a leak in the EGR cooler. That can cause white/gray exhaust smoke.

Your turbo might be sticking, or your EBP sensor may be bad, or your EBP sensor tube might be plugged, etc. Maybe there is a small hole in the MAP sensor hose. We simply need more information

You need to invest in your own scan tool. ForScan on a Windows laptop is best, but the Lite version of ForScan on a smartphone is as good as most people need. You will need an adapter to communicate between ForScan and your trucks PCM. A lot of people ignore the advice of getting their own scan tool. Simply put, they are deciding to remain at the mercy of a shop when doing so (this can be both good AND bad - depending).

White smoke can also be an injector dumping fuel. If you have that, it would be wise to fix that ASAP.

Get ForScan so you can do the troubleshooting yourself (AND answer our questions)
Scan for codes
Post current code numbers - I bet you have some again!

Then you need to get a fuel pressure sensor and gauge, or at least have a KNOWLEDGEABLE shop test the fuel pressure.

LASTLY - sometimes radiators leak because there is too much pressure in the coolant system. This excess pressure typically comes from leaking head gaskets. Eventually you need to put a pressure gauge on the coolant system. The easiest way is to tee in a gauge into the small vent hose that goes from the top of the radiator to the degas bottle.

EDIT - The A/C stuck on defrost could simply be a lack of vacuum. I find it hard to believe that they wouldn't have told you that - except they do not appear to know the engine or the truck very well. Vacuum leaks can be anywhere (heater valve vacuum hose, 4x4 hubs, blend door, etc). If it is more than that, then I wouldn't spend a lot of money on the A/C until the serious things were taken care of.
 

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543 Posts
Unplug your egr valve before starting it and drive it for a day see how it runs. if they cleaned the ebp sensor but not the tube, it may be that. cleaning the tube is not all that bad to do yourself. Ask the shop if you should clean it, then you will know if they did it or not. Agree with bismic...get a scan tool.
 

· Master Tech
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And, unfortunately, shops that don't know what they are doing can not only drain a wallet but cause more damage along the way.

XBlu, if you still have the invoice, how about looking up the part number of the EGR valve they replaced?
 

· 6.0 Powerstroke n00b
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721 Posts
Buying a high mileage 6.0, one should be prepared to spend big money on repairs. Not bad mouthing the shop but if they can't perform some basic testing to see if the engine is mechanically sound first, (compression, cylinder contribution, etc.) this is not going to go well.

Who did the PPI before you bought it? Were they a diesel tech or specialist shop?


When staring from a stop the smoke goes from black / grey to white
Well lets see. Too much fuel to raw fuel to steam? WTF?

I know this sounds bad but after buying several 6.0 PSD's at auction, etc, I look at buying a 6.0 that is non-running or poor running with the knowledge that I may be doing a complete engine build and budget accordingly. I can't see paying $12,000 for one that has engine problems. I don't mean to sound harsh on a new 6.0 owner. Most of us learned these lessons about the 6.0 the hard (expensive) way.

The good news is, if your willing to learn, have the tools, and shop, you can make the 6.0 into a very reliable diesel. I took mine to Sturgis this year towing our toy hauler RV loaded with my Street Glide, all the way from SE Texas. I never once had any doubt my 6.0 would perform perfectly or leave me stranded in the mountains.
 
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