[2MANYPROJ3CTS]

I've had typical cluster issues intermittently shutting off the gauges, windows, etc for a while now.
Yesterday dropped the boat in the water and couldn't get my windows up. So I threw a little man-fit and beat the hell out of the dash and still didn't help. So backed down the launch to pull boat back out, truck went into what I'm guessing is limp mode: hard shifts, reverse works great, no power in fwd gears, blowing smoke everywhere, battery light came on. So whacked it a few more times and turned truck off and on a few times and was able to pull boat out and drive home. Battery light flashed a few times while under load.
Today on way to work, battery light came again, programmer showed battery at 11-11.6V and FICM at 10.5V
Truck ran fine. Got to work, pulled up the battery voltage on the cluster with truck off showed 14.2, started truck and same, 14.2, programmer shows 11.5 and battery lights is on.
Is there control circuitry in the cluster for the charging system too?
I may have just knocked something loose. Connections are all tight and I have an aftermarket high output alternator.

 

[Hydro]

Have you checked the connections at the battery?
Pop the dash front off and gently wiggle the connectors at the top of the cluster, ...do the gauges and lights change?

next, I would open the cluster and re-solder the main connectors if you seen changes when manipulating the connectors
a strong light and magnifying glass will show the cracked solder joints

The regulator for the alternator is internal, but the charge indicator / excite wire comes from the instrument cluster
the fuseable links near the passenger battery can cause problems, the alternator goes thru there, and also the 12 volt reference for the alternator

 

[Hydro]

If you pull the instrument cluster, just tip it out at the top -- will need to work with the connector wires a little to clear the dash
then flip the levers on the connectors to remove them
CAUTION - the shift indicator on the bottom is clipped in like an electrical connector, but be careful with the tabs

 

[2MANYPROJ3CTS]

Last time I pulled the cluster and messed with it, it worked great for a couple weeks. Couldn't see anything wrong but I didn't have a magnifying glass. Battery terminals are all tight, as are the alt wires.

 

[Hydro]

Just trying to work the problem
have you looked at the back side of the fuse box?

 

[2MANYPROJ3CTS]

Just trying to work the problem
have you looked at the back side of the fuse box?

I haven't looked at the back of the box yet. Ive read the cluster is the cause of the intermittent radio, windows and gauges going out. Just need some down time to send it off for repair. The new issue with the battery has me puzzled. I have a feeling its related after I beat the hell out of everything 😂.
Probably something loose back there like you said.

 

[Hydro]

Ever have water in the floor board after a storm?
the windshield can leak also the wiper arm
this runs down on the fuse box

 

[2MANYPROJ3CTS]

Ever have water in the floor board after a storm?
the windshield can leak also the wiper arm
this runs down on the fuse box

No leaks, back if the fuse box is fine. All fuses and relays are tight.

Yesterday afternoon I screwed with it some more in the parking lot at work. Battery voltage started dropping pretty quick so I hauled *** to auto-zone. When I arrived I couldn't restart the truck. Batts were drained. Had to jump it to test the alt in the truck, showed 9.25ish volts out, I did not run it on their machine inside since their tester was down. I swapped the alt out for a new ACDelco and took a while to recharge.

Battery light is out but there's serious voltage fluctuations in the cluster digital readout vs the programmers battery while driving. Cluster showed anywhere from 13-18V while programmer held steady at 12.5... usually shows 13.5-14 w/ 13.5 FICM voltage so it's showing 1 volt low.

I'm going to call a local place and see if they can fix the cluster. I'm an aircraft electrician but I don't do micro miniature stuff and I shake too bad to do real fine work. If I can figure out how to post videos I can do that. I have a few.

 

[2MANYPROJ3CTS]

So resolving the issue...
Paid $400 to a local auto electronics shop, no joy. Didnt even make it out of the parking lot before it went haywire again.
Circuitboardmedics does exchanges now with led backlight upgrades and upgrades to all the OEM weak links in the cluster for $329. Ordered and shipped out pre programmed for my truck same day. Installed two days later and my issues are fixed. Just need to send my core back to them.

 

[ZMANN]

get your money back from that shop ?

 

[2MANYPROJ3CTS]

get your money back from that shop ?

No they gave me song and dance about their labor and they fixed a bunch of stuff and the board was bad and they'd cut me a break on a new one blah blah blah. Just a reminder why I don't pay out for stuff unless I absolutely have to.