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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a loss of compression in 1 cylinder, and told I need a new engine. I am considering a drip in from Ford. What type of issues might I expect from the replacement? Or should I Re think replacing the engine.
 

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I would rethink the Ford Reman. I know that a lot of people will chime in but they are not known for being a quality product. They are also WAY over priced. If you want to see an example of poor quality from Ford then look up Too Many Toys on Youtube. He is doing a great series on rebuilding his (low mile) Ford Reman. When It's my turn for an engine I would be running to Kill Devil. They seem to have a great reputation so I would definitely research other rebuilders firs before I ran to the Ford dealer.
 

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I have a loss of compression in 1 cylinder, and told I need a new engine. I am considering a drip in from Ford. What type of issues might I expect from the replacement? Or should I Re think replacing the engine.
—- I am not a mechanic but you’d either have to be in love with the thing, or have sooo much $$ invested into the truck you could not buy a 6.7 or 7.3L with less headaches and more reliability... There are a lot of people who (for work or pleasure) would appreciate the opportunity for a good deal, and have zest and zeal to rebuild her... You just need to put the worm on the hook for a good price, and walk away with some $$ in your wallet... 🙏🙏.
 

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It really depends on your plans for the truck. Is this a daily, a tow rig, a play rig, etc...
If it's a daily, in stock form, with good injectors, turbo, HPOP, etc....., you can get a short block for $3k with a 1 yr warranty. A long block for 5k with head studs. If you know a good mechanic, you could have it it R&R for another $3-5k after labor and little updates for longevity.
It really depends on your plan and budget.

Ashville Engines $3k short block, 5k long block

J&K Engines $3200 short block, $5100 long block

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Who said new engine? It probably has a leaking valve, or guide, head related.
This is a good point. He might not need a whole motor, just a head job. Causes of no compression can be Bad rings, broken/melted piston, window where it shouldn't be, bent valve, bad Injector seals, cracked head, and the list goes on. Hope you have a trustworthy mechanic and do your research on parts and repairs. Good luck.

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It would be good to know why the loss of compression to advise. Nut the mechanic might know what he is talking about.

But, yeah, I wouldn't recommend a Ford reman......just can't.

 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have a loss of compression in 1 cylinder, and told I need a new engine. I am considering a drip in from Ford. What type of issues might I expect from the replacement? Or should I Re think replacing the engine.
Thank you all for your thoughts. Here is more of the story. Bought the F350 10 years ago, with 40K miles. in 10 years I have changed 9 injectors. the problem started with white smoke and then a injector missing. The new injector seemed to fix the issue. but now the smoke is really bad. my mechanic tried the same injector his but that just made it worse. he suggested a compression test, but did not have the time to do it right then. so I took it to ford. they found cyl.#2 down 8% or 220 psi. there explanation for the smoke was the loss in compression slower the timing of the injector and un burnt fuel in cyl #1was making the smoke. the option to dive into the motor to find the real problem would cost as much and replacing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would rethink the Ford Reman. I know that a lot of people will chime in but they are not known for being a quality product. They are also WAY over priced. If you want to see an example of poor quality from Ford then look up Too Many Toys on Youtube. He is doing a great series on rebuilding his (low mile) Ford Reman. When It's my turn for an engine I would be running to Kill Devil. They seem to have a great reputation so I would definitely research other rebuilders firs before I ran to the Ford dealer.
Thanks, I watched the "Too many toys" it put a damper on using a Reman engine from ford. I also looked into the KillDevil engines. I liked what i saw. what testimony do you have that they are much better.
 

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Both KDD and Asheville are good rebuilders with good records, I’d have no problem ordering from either. KDD can get hung up on delivery time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
—- I am not a mechanic but you’d either have to be in love with the thing, or have sooo much $$ invested into the truck you could not buy a 6.7 or 7.3L with less headaches and more reliability... There are a lot of people who (for work or pleasure) would appreciate the opportunity for a good deal, and have zest and zeal to rebuild her... You just need to put the worm on the hook for a good price, and walk away with some $$ in your wallet... 🙏🙏.
I have looked into getting a new used truck with low milage. but I can not find one that is comparable to what I have for a price i can afford. I have a F350 lariat w 5th wheel. and she is in very good condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It really depends on your plans for the truck. Is this a daily, a tow rig, a play rig, etc...
If it's a daily, in stock form, with good injectors, turbo, HPOP, etc....., you can get a short block for $3k with a 1 yr warranty. A long block for 5k with head studs. If you know a good mechanic, you could have it it R&R for another $3-5k after labor and little updates for longevity.
It really depends on your plan and budget.

Ashville Engines $3k short block, 5k long block

J&K Engines $3200 short block, $5100 long block

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
My plans for the truck are every day use. work, play, tow. it is in very good condition. the option of going with a long block instead of a drop-in is on the table. the extra time it takes to swap over all the bolt ons would add up to cost close to the same as a drop in. I will look into the Ashville and J&K blocks. the price I have gotten is closer to 9K
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Who said new engine? It probably has a leaking valve, or guide, head related.
Ford said it and my mechanic suggested it. If it was just head related that would be good. pull the heads, rebuild them and put them on. But you have to dive in to find that. if the problem is rings then you need to pull the piston. what if there is a crack. can you test that with the motor still in the truck.
 

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My plans for the truck are every day use. work, play, tow. it is in very good condition. the option of going with a long block instead of a drop-in is on the table. the extra time it takes to swap over all the bolt ons would add up to cost close to the same as a drop in. I will look into the Ashville and J&K blocks. the price I have gotten is closer to 9K
9k in parts is on the higher side, but you have to factor in machine shop time, assembly etc. The long block is a great option. If you do go that route, make sure it comes studded, put in the stage 2 cam(makes a big difference IMO) and maybe oring the heads. With the extras, you'll be right at 7k for the long block plus shipping, etc. But it would be a very solid platform that would be reliable for playing, working, and reliability. Good luck with your decision.

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