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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just went and looked at an 06 PSD F350 with 100k miles flat on it. The dealer said that it ran fine and would do everything perfectly, except after you turned it off it would take about 1 hr before it could be started again. He said that a mechanic said it was more than likely the HPOP. I'm wondering if it's the HPOP itself or if it's the IPC..ICP (sorry can't remember which it is) that is broken? Or does it sound like something completely different? He said he'll knock 2grand off the price if I buy it and fix it myself..I know an HPOP replacement won't be that much and especially not the other thing (IPC..ICP), so I could make a heck of a deal on it if that's all the issue is. Does this sound like an HPOP related failure to you guys?
 

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If it is an HPOP, they aint cheap. ($768.xx minus 150.00 core charge).
It is possible it is the infamous STC fitting, BUT..listen carefully.
The High pressure oil system is a ROYAL pain in the A$$ to pinpoint problems. Go and start tossing parts at it, and miss, you gonna burn a whole lot more than 2 grand.
The system must be pressure tested by a qualified mechanic. One that knows his elbow from his a-hole when it comes to the 6.0
Get the wrong guy and your gonna drop thousands upon thousand to get the right answer.
This is no joke. If you do not want to pay for the proper diagnosis, replace everything in the list below.

Heres the list of likely contributors to that no-start/hot condition:
STC fitting, almost a given on the 05-06 trucks.
Stanpipes.
Dummy plugs.
o-rings under the HPOP.
Luckily, the HPOP is a fairly stout piece on the 05-up trucks. Keep in mind we are talking about ENGINE year, NOT truck year. Find out if that 05 truck has an 04 engine.

The 03-04 engine year have a weaker HPOP that is known for failure, does not have the STC fitting. It does have the other parts, but they may be different than the 05 model.
 

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Actually, no, I haven't.
Well, I did have an HPOP failure, which was correctly diagnosed as the pump seal and NOT the STC fitting. Imagine my joy when I open the box containing my new HPOP and find that it had the STC fitting attached to it. YAY!
Encountered someone online that "knew" what his problem was, after three attempts he must have finally got it right.
 

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i would check ur ipr and go from there. but like what nyc said take it to someone who knows there stuff and c what they have to say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys! I'm contemplating on who to take though. The guy says he's bringing a guy over from a Ford dealership to diagnose it with his "high-tech computer". Hopefully it's nothing big, so I can use that extra 2 grand for headstuds!! :)
 

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Quinn- I vote the STC fitting. I have been there and done that. My truck quit on day out of the blue. The STC fitting blew apart. I paid a mechanic 500 to replace it. I bought the new upgraded parts and all was fine for 1 month. Around the 30 day mark the truck would not start after it had been drive a while. I would have to wait 1 hour or more for the oil to cool and then it would fire up. I went back to the shop and they refused to fix the truck but did return 1/2 the money i paid. I tore into the truck and found the guy did not install the STC fitting correctly. I was able to unscrew it by hand. The o ring had a cut and the oil would not pressure up when hot to fire. I did the repair work myself. A lot of people make this repair out to be hard and costly but i did not find it that bad to do.

Now for a little horror story. I have seen 3 trucks that the STC fitting blew apart and cracked the bedplate. That part is a pain in the a$$ to replace and expensive. Mine also cracked but i fixed it in place.

Buy a 6.0 and you better be able to work on it or have deep pockets to work ALL the bugs out.
 

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Buy a 6.0 and you better be able to work on it or have deep pockets to work ALL the bugs out.[/QUOTE]

:thumb:

You got that right!

I've pretty much replaced all the "bug" ie pee poor engineered parts on my 6.0 myself and some of the big $ stuff got done under warranty just paid for the upgrade aftermarket parts. Yes I've got a good mechanic friend :nod:

Just finished a solid 10+hrs flushing coolant to ELC, banjo's, upgrade fuel press spring, CCV reroute. I'm worn out goin to bed!
 

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Ya if you can get the bugs worked out they are very good motors, the CTD is a great motor tho but truck to truck I wayyy prefer the Ford. JMO tho
My buddies '10 Dodge 1 ton rides like a shopping cart compared to mine, I used to drive a '98 Dodge before this one and I doooo like this one better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah, I'm on the search for a Fummins haha. But on a more serious note, what would you say is the most crucial thing to fix on a 6.0 to make it less prone to failure? Such as head studs, egr delete, or an improved oil cooler? I know most issues originate from the oil cooler, so would it still be necessary to install studs? Basically I've got a couple extra grand I'm going to use to fix the 6.0 I eventually buy.
 

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dont need studs untill you put alot of power to it,egr delete 6.4 banjos and blue spring then worry bout the tuner, injectors and studs
 

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Headstuds would be my last repair. If you plan on dogging the truck and pretend it is a corvette or hemi cuda good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Have y'all heard about that E.D.A.S? It stands for engine damage avoidance system. A senior master tech on powerstrokes created it, and supposedly it detects pressure in the coolant tank or something along those lines. Look it up it's on powerstrokehelp.com. And no I'm not advertising..
 

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Yep, like Mingo said, maybe put on some guages to monitor ECT & EOT prolly flush out the Ford Gold cooant and put in CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant then let her ride... :)
 

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Have y'all heard about that E.D.A.S? It stands for engine damage avoidance system. A senior master tech on powerstrokes created it, and supposedly it detects pressure in the coolant tank or something along those lines. Look it up it's on powerstrokehelp.com. And no I'm not advertising..
If you buy a set of gauges and watch them, you are your own "Engine Damage Avoidance System." Do you need a $250 electronic box to tell you your EOT is more than 15°F above your ECT? :hehe:
As you can tell, the opinion of that guy isn't very high around ANY of the forums. You would be best served reading on the forums about the problems versus listening to that windbag.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Haha alright alright. I didn't know that guy was not liked here. Egr delete and guages will be my first step.
 
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