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What are you planning on doing to inspect the turbo once pulled? It's fairly easy once out to open and clean. It Either has carbon and the veins move or it doesn't. There's rebuild kits, but when I looked at them none were created equal, and there's not as much about the 6.0 turbo rebuilding as there is cleaning it. Once you get it out, you'll figure if its worth the risk. I personally hate pulling my turbo. Came close to me buying a turbo for an exhaust leak I had, but turned out to be pipes mated bad so I did not need it.

Turbos are so pricey, so unless you want an excuse to buy a Stage 1.5 turbo, then may want to wait to see what happens when it is pulled apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
UPDATE:

Pulled the turbo Saturday. It took me 45 minutes to get it out. It is not a hard job really. Toughest part is getting to it. A lot of stretching, reaching, and standing in the engine bay (working below your feet). Once out I split it. The ring was stuck. Besides that, the turbo just looks (is) used up. I have no reason to believe this is not the original turbo (222K miles - I bought the truck with 55k miles). The actuator tested good (it moves when I apply 12V). So, I ordered a NEW OEM turbo to replace this one. It should be in on Wednesday. While at it I will replace the drain tube, feed tube, and actuator o-rings.

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #44
When trying to order an o-ring kit for the actuator, I found out the turbo comes with a new actuator. I figured I was going to have to swap over the heat shield, and actuator. I guess I'll have a spare now. They could reduce the cost of the turbo even further if it was supplied without an actuator.

Ryan
 

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Kind curious about origin of the chunk that went thru the turbine wheel, that would def make low boost
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Kind curious about origin of the chunk that went thru the turbine wheel, that would def make low boost
I don't believe anything went through the wheel. That is simply wear from prolonged use. There are several other pictures on the net of wheels that show the same kind of wear.

Ryan
 

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Something went through it or you were running very high exhaust temps for extended periods. My bet is something went through it.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
UPDATE - NEW Turbo installed - no improvement:

I installed the NEW turbo earlier today (along with new drain tube, and feed line). As soon as the truck started I knew I still had problems. I say that because i was expecting to hear that whining sound a turbo makes at idle, and I don't hear it. Still the exact same performance, which is no boost whatsoever (0 psi). Not so sure what to do now. The only two things i can think of are a clogged cat or wiring problems with the VGT connector. Others here mention that EBP of approx 40 psi does not indicate a clogged cat. I have a buddy that has a muffler shop so i will bring it by for him the check out to be sure.

The VGT wiring. With KOEO, I measure 12 volts at the connector. with KOER I get 13 volts at the connector and I also checked the Hz and it bounces between 900-950 at idle. Not sure if those numbers are correct but it indicates to be that the connector and wiring are good. However, I need to verify the polarity. Remember, this connector had been replaced before (by others). While waiting for the turbo to come in, I cut out the crimp connectors and soldered them up. I'm 99.99% sure I did not switch the wires as i coded them before i cut them. There is a green wire and a black wire. Which is the hot? Remember that I had the same performance issue prior to soldering the wires, but it did run properly before this issue.

I've tried my best to be systematic and not jump around while trying to diagnose. Any input at this point would be greatly appreciated. Over the next day or so I will put another list together of things to check, even if it means starting over. I'm determined to fix this myself (with help from powerstroke.org, of course).

Ryan
 

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UPDATE - NEW Turbo installed - no improvement:



I installed the NEW turbo earlier today (along with new drain tube, and feed line). As soon as the truck started I knew I still had problems. I say that because i was expecting to hear that whining sound a turbo makes at idle, and I don't hear it. Still the exact same performance, which is no boost whatsoever (0 psi). Not so sure what to do now. The only two things i can think of are a clogged cat or wiring problems with the VGT connector. Others here mention that EBP of approx 40 psi does not indicate a clogged cat. I have a buddy that has a muffler shop so i will bring it by for him the check out to be sure.



The VGT wiring. With KOEO, I measure 12 volts at the connector. with KOER I get 13 volts at the connector and I also checked the Hz and it bounces between 900-950 at idle. Not sure if those numbers are correct but it indicates to be that the connector and wiring are good. However, I need to verify the polarity. Remember, this connector had been replaced before (by others). While waiting for the turbo to come in, I cut out the crimp connectors and soldered them up. I'm 99.99% sure I did not switch the wires as i coded them before i cut them. There is a green wire and a black wire. Which is the hot? Remember that I had the same performance issue prior to soldering the wires, but it did run properly before this issue.



I've tried my best to be systematic and not jump around while trying to diagnose. Any input at this point would be greatly appreciated. Over the next day or so I will put another list together of things to check, even if it means starting over. I'm determined to fix this myself (with help from powerstroke.org, of course).



Ryan
Are you sure your uppipe got seated properly to the turbo? No exhaust leak on that side? Disconnect the down pipe from the turbo and that will eliminate the cat.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Could also disconnect the pipe just before the Cat and look inside at the element -- should see the honeycomb structure if all is good
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Are you sure your uppipe got seated properly to the turbo? No exhaust leak on that side? Disconnect the down pipe from the turbo and that will eliminate the cat.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Yes, I am sure the up pipe connection is good. However, as i think about it, I too am starting to think perhaps there is not enough exhaust going into the turbo to get it to spin. Tonight I will recheck the up pipe connection to the turbo, and perform another inspection of the up pipes.

I will disconnect the down pipe to eliminate the clogged cat.

Ryan
 

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Do you hear a tone change when you disconnect the VGT connector while the engine is idling?
If the wires are swapped, the VGT will not work. Only takes a few minutes to test. You may want to get another pigtail first though.

You can also try giving the turbo a couple of sharp "taps" with a light hammer in the area circled in the attachment. I've had the mechanism VGT stick on a new turbo before. Do that with the engine running to see if you hear a tone change.

All that said, even with the VGT completely inoperable you should still see SOME boost. I still think you may have a leak somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Do you hear a tone change when you disconnect the VGT connector while the engine is idling?
If the wires are swapped, the VGT will not work. Only takes a few minutes to test. You may want to get another pigtail first though.

You can also try giving the turbo a couple of sharp "taps" with a light hammer in the area circled in the attachment. I've had the mechanism VGT stick on a new turbo before. Do that with the engine running to see if you hear a tone change.

All that said, even with the VGT completely inoperable you should still see SOME boost. I still think you may have a leak somewhere.
I do hear a very slight (and I mean slight) tone change when I plug in the connector.

I was just studying up-pipe configuration. Remember, I have the EGR delete (done by other years ago). When this is deleted, is the up-pipe changed out or do they just plug the exhaust port going to the EGR? My truck is at home now and i can't check it out. Starting to wonder if the port is just plugged, maybe the plug came off??

Ryan
 

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I do hear a very slight (and I mean slight) tone change when I plug in the connector.



I was just studying up-pipe configuration. Remember, I have the EGR delete (done by other years ago). When this is deleted, is the up-pipe changed out or do they just plug the exhaust port going to the EGR? My truck is at home now and i can't check it out. Starting to wonder if the port is just plugged, maybe the plug came off??



Ryan
It can be done both ways, by replacing the up-pipe section or just capping it off. Easy to check.

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Not trying to highjack your thread but I just experienced the exact same thing in my 06 350. Coming down the road and lost boost pressure. Came back about ten minutes later. Then the next morning was there. Cranked that evening and lost it again. I have just replaced the turbo (268k on it) with new and it's doing the exact same as before. I've done the same things and checked the same stuff. The only difference I've noticed on mine is a P0046 code. I've checked the wires going from the VGT solenoid over to the PCM for continuity and they came up good on both of them. I also tried to check them for continuity to the engine to see if they were grounded out, but came up with nothing. I broke down and ordered a new PCM just to rule it out seeing as I don't have another person close by to switch out with. I'm interested to see what you find, and if I find anything, I'll be sure to post up as well.
 

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I do hear a very slight (and I mean slight) tone change when I plug in the connector.

I was just studying up-pipe configuration. Remember, I have the EGR delete (done by other years ago). When this is deleted, is the up-pipe changed out or do they just plug the exhaust port going to the EGR? My truck is at home now and i can't check it out. Starting to wonder if the port is just plugged, maybe the plug came off??

Ryan
You should hear a dramatic sound change between the two. G8orford is sounding like it’s a electric issue. Or you have a VGT problem in cylinder or the advance of the vanes unison ring etc.
I haven’t read all the way through because I’m too damn lazy at the moment. So you may want to hit that DUMP button if I’m sucking air here. Good night fellas I'm throoooooough.

Oh crap good Luck OP.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
UPDATE: FIXED!!

It was the catalytic converter.

I pulled the down pipe off the turbo and noticed a 1-2 psi boost while revving the engine in park. - that was more than I have seen throughout all my testing. So, I pulled the cat. When I looked inside I knew I had an issue. The entire element had broken free from the ID and was flopping around. You can see in the pics, the element turned 90 degrees and then backed up against the outlet (you can see the round black ring on the element where it was up against the outlet). With the element turned 90 degrees, there could not have been any flow - kind of working like a ball check at this point!

Once cut apart, the element just fell out. Repaired the cat housing and reinstalled.

I'm sure this was my problem all along. However, going through everything (VGT actuator, charge air system, etc) tough me a ton about my truck, not to mention forced me to locate a crack in the plastic CAC pipe, and a badly worn turbo. I'm a happy camper. Thanks to everyone here who helped!

Ryan


P.S. With the type of cat failure I experienced, you can see how this could be intermittent. As long as the element is rolling around you could go from "straight pipe" performance to nothing in an instant.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Not trying to highjack your thread but I just experienced the exact same thing in my 06 350. Coming down the road and lost boost pressure. Came back about ten minutes later. Then the next morning was there. Cranked that evening and lost it again. I have just replaced the turbo (268k on it) with new and it's doing the exact same as before. I've done the same things and checked the same stuff. The only difference I've noticed on mine is a P0046 code. I've checked the wires going from the VGT solenoid over to the PCM for continuity and they came up good on both of them. I also tried to check them for continuity to the engine to see if they were grounded out, but came up with nothing. I broke down and ordered a new PCM just to rule it out seeing as I don't have another person close by to switch out with. I'm interested to see what you find, and if I find anything, I'll be sure to post up as well.
I would recommend pulling the cat and checking it out, if you haven't already. See my post above!
 

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I am glad you found your problem but that won't do me any good, as my truck is straight piped with no cat to pull. I noticed on my datalog that my VGT command is staying at a constant .84 volts. It never changes. My truck will boost some when it starts turning some RPMs but that value never ever changes. I'm still waiting on the PCM to get here Friday and hopefully that will make all the difference. But any other ideas?
 
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