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05 F250 6.0L, 221K miles. EGR deleted a couple of years ago. Otherwise stock vehicle. Weeks ago I noticed the boost pressure would only get to about 10-12 psi. Since then the max pressure has decreased steadily. No codes throughout this time (verified with a friend’s scan tool while diagnosing FICM issue). Fast forward to this morning; Check engine light is on and the max pressure now is 1-2 psi. I can still hear the turbo spinning, but it’s not spinning like it used to (that what my ears tell me anyway). The vehicle runs fine, just doesn't "go".
First question is what scan tool should I buy. I hate to bother my friend with my problems and I need to get the codes to see if they are related at all to the turbo problem. Second question is do the above symptoms point to anything known?

When repairing the FICM issue mentioned above, I inspected the hot & cold side of the intake system and didn’t find any cracks or holes.

Ryan
 

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05 F250 6.0L, 221K miles. EGR deleted a couple of years ago. Otherwise stock vehicle. Weeks ago I noticed the boost pressure would only get to about 10-12 psi. Since then the max pressure has decreased steadily. No codes throughout this time (verified with a friend’s scan tool while diagnosing FICM issue). Fast forward to this morning; Check engine light is on and the max pressure now is 1-2 psi. I can still hear the turbo spinning, but it’s not spinning like it used to (that what my ears tell me anyway). The vehicle runs fine, just doesn't "go".

First question is what scan tool should I buy. I hate to bother my friend with my problems and I need to get the codes to see if they are related at all to the turbo problem. Second question is do the above symptoms point to anything known?



When repairing the FICM issue mentioned above, I inspected the hot & cold side of the intake system and didn’t find any cracks or holes.



Ryan
If you are sure you have no leaks in any boots or the inter cooler, pull the air intake tube from the turbo and check the shaft for any play. As for a code reader I would buy a bluetooth OBD2 adaptor and get the torque pro app on an android device. Also, I would check your up pipes to make sure you dont have an exhaust leak there. The bellows tend to blow on those also.

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If you pull the air filter and spin the turbo, it should be a little "stiff" to start, but spin freely and quietly. Also, you should not be able to move it in and out and very, very little side to side. You can also check the exhaust gas manifolds where they meet the engine for black carbon. The carbon means they're leaking and at least mean gaskets need to be added.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you are sure you have no leaks in any boots or the inter cooler, pull the air intake tube from the turbo and check the shaft for any play. As for a code reader I would buy a bluetooth OBD2 adaptor and get the torque pro app on an android device. Also, I would check your up pipes to make sure you dont have an exhaust leak there. The bellows tend to blow on those also.

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How can I check the inter cooler for leaks? I will have a look at the up pipes tonight. I'll also remove the intake and check the shaft for play and see that it spins.

Ryan
 

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How can I check the inter cooler for leaks? I will have a look at the up pipes tonight. I'll also remove the intake and check the shaft for play and see that it spins.

Ryan
DTR in this video can explain it better than I can type it...

 

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I visually checked the up pipes and don't see any problems. However, at the connection at the rear of the turbo I see a little black at the clamp (see pic). Would this indicate a leak?

Next i pulled the air filter and did a pressure check of the charge air system. To my surprise I found a crack on the plastic tube on the cold side. I visually inspected this very well, but not well enough obviously. Local dealer has on in stock. Any reason i should not stick with OEM?

Lastly, it appears that there is an oil leak that may be starting at the underside of the turbo. It that even possible? See pic.

Ryan
 

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For the black soot around the turbo downpipe, that would require loosening something like the band, wiggling it together, lightly tightening the band, and then wiggling it again, lightly tighten and repeat to seat the up pipe. That won't effect loss of boost, but it is an exhaust, but once the exhaust leaves the turbo to go down the tube, the exhaust's job of building boost is done. IMO, you can hold off on fixing this, depending on how much exhaust you're getting in the cab.

For the plastic broken pipe, it'd probably be worth the wait to order a metal one on line. When I replaced mine I went with metal. Maybe going with plastic, you'll get another 13 years out of the new plastic pipe. It's hard to visually inspect the whole thing, you just can;t see underneathit anyway.

For the leak, be sure to isolate it real well. It can be leaking from the turbo drain pipe either at the turbo ro where the drain tube enters the engine. When pulling mine, I always put new seals on, and one of the reasons I hate putting the turbo in so much is aligning the turbo oil drain tube. Oil leakks are so hard to find and among many other likey places it could be is the turbo oil feed tube or the oil pressure sensor or even the oil cooler O-Ring.
 

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I wouldn't put a plastic one back on it, I'd replace it with the metal pipe and boots from an '03-'04 year model. You might want to get the updated oil feed line while you're at it. The braided lines can fail internally and starve the turbo from oil.

Metal cold side pipe: 6C3Z 6C640 AA I believe it comes with boots and clamps, but you would need to verify that with @fordsvtparts or @voodooridr

Updated feed line: 3C3Z 9T516 A
 

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Close, 6C3Z-6C646-A on the CAC
3C3Z-9T516-A is correct for the feed tube which reminds me I need to change mine

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I visually checked the up pipes and don't see any problems. However, at the connection at the rear of the turbo I see a little black at the clamp (see pic). Would this indicate a leak?



Next i pulled the air filter and did a pressure check of the charge air system. To my surprise I found a crack on the plastic tube on the cold side. I visually inspected this very well, but not well enough obviously. Local dealer has on in stock. Any reason i should not stick with OEM?



Lastly, it appears that there is an oil leak that may be starting at the underside of the turbo. It that even possible? See pic.



Ryan
I agree with everything thats been posted. Go with a metal pipe just to be safe. The oil leak is likely just o-rings leaking on the drain tube. I never reuse them when I pull a turbo because i just dont want to take the risk of then leaking. When you decide to fix that leak you will also be in a good position to fix the exhaust leak you have but as already mentioned that will not affect boost. Thats the busted CAC pipe causing that.

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Discussion Starter #11
Update:

I changed out the cold side cracked plastic tube with the metal one suggested. While i was at it I decided to take off the hot side and inspect the boots for tears. No tears - everything looks good. There was a little oil pooling at the lower boot, but I assume this is normal. Bad new is there is still no boost - I mean none. The needled just sits on "0". I did not do a pressure check on the charge air system again but i will tonight. Question - when doing the charge air pressure test like Ron shows in the video, what stops the air from going into the manifold / loosing pressure?

I still don't have the codes. That is the next thing on my list.

Thanks for all the help thus far.

Ryan
 

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Have you checked the MAP hose and nipple on the manifold? Zero boost points to the MAP sensor or the connections to it being at fault. Either that or the turbo is completely toast.
 

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Have you checked the MAP hose and nipple on the manifold? Zero boost points to the MAP sensor or the connections to it being at fault. Either that or thr turbo is completely toast.
I'll check that tonight as well.

BTW, I have an OBD2 adapter on order to get the codes.

Ryan
 

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I also suspect your MAP hose is disconnected on the passenger side from the air intake to the MAP sensor. Only time I saw 0 boost on my turbo was when the Hot side CAC Boot popped off when driving.

For the path inside my signature block is the good reading and that will show the path. Without enough posts, you may need to google "6.0 bible pdf" and that will show it. Nothing really stops the air from going in the intake. If the valve is open, it goes in and pressure is held in the piston itself. There's a little leakage around the valves, but not much. When the intake valve is open, the exhaust valve is closed, so it won't leak out the tailpipe.
 

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Update:

I did another charge air system check. The system will hold pressure, but the pressure bleeds off slowly, like from 10 psi down to 5 psi takes about 20 seconds. Should the system hold pressure with absolutely no leaking?

I also got my buddy to get the codes. A WIF code, and couple of glow plugs and a no manifold pressure detected. On his scan tool the gauge pressure was "0.0" even when the truck was running. I checked the line going from the manifold to the MAP sensor. Connections were good at each end, no cracks, line holds pressure, and no obstructions. With the truck not running, I connected one end of the line to the manifold and was able to blow into the manifold so I know there is no obstruction in the nipple at the manifold. I then connected one end to the MAP sensor and we were able to see the pressure increase on the scan tool when I blew into the line.

Is there anything else to check physically or monitor with the scan tool before deciding it is the turbo?

Ryan
 

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With a boost leak check, it will naturally leak. 1 PSI per second is good according to the paper that came with my Diesesite Boost leak detector. It will leak through the valve stems, both the exhaust and air intake valve stems have a clearance where the air will leak out naturally.

Before you condemn the turbo, you can pull it, split it in half and clean it, and put it back. Also, there is a turbo solenoid that could be bad, but some turbos you buy have you put the old one in; this solenoid can cost a couple hundred bucks. Have you tried to spin the turbo? It should be stiff, but spin freely once you overcome the stiffness. If you are making 0 boost, then perhaps the turbo is seized.
 

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Before it's all said and done, you'll want to pressure test up to about 30 psi, but for now are you measuring boost in park? You will not see any boost to speak of until there is load on the engine.
 

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Before it's all said and done, you'll want to pressure test up to about 30 psi, but for now are you measuring boost in park? You will not see any boost to speak of until there is load on the engine.
I'd like to know what you use to get it that high. My dieselsite boost tester has the center metal plug pop out at 10 - 15 PSI, and my home made one with a rubber 4" boot and 3" boot pops off at 5 PSI.
 

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I use a Deiselsite tester. Other than being a bit paranoid that the tester itself would blow off on my face, I have no problem getting it to 30 psi.
 

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I use a Deiselsite tester. Other than being a bit paranoid that the tester itself would blow off on my face, I have no problem getting it to 30 psi.
Thanks. Guess I got the same tester. No matter how tight I get the band around that metal plug, it'll pop off around 15 PSI. The pressure gauge built in the cap is busted because of this. The plug has popped past my face before when I tried testing the turbo out of the truck. That was scary, but I guess I was lucky that day.
 
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