[bluemaruder001]

Hello all,

I have an 03 that has been running fine until I went to crank yesterday. I put a new exhaust system on and a boost and pyro gauge, went to crank to check for leaks and spins but no start. I have checked HPOP and I have oil, I have voltage across GPR and I checked fuses. Replaced CPS just because I keep spare but that didn't fix. Everything looks good under hood, I unplugged ICP and that didn't work either. Have 2 good charged batteries. When cranking oil pressure moves but I thought the RPM should move too, correct? I get a WTS light and I can hear the GPR engage and shut off. Have good fuel pressure and clean bowl and filter.

I am usually pretty good with troubleshooting but I am at a loss here as it was running fine last week and all I did was install exhaust and 2 gauges. The inside cab install is not complete yet but the under hood connections are complete. The 2 gauges are Banks as well as the exhaust.

Thanks

 

[NoRalPh]

OK first, no Tach movement on an '03. But,,, I hate to say it,,,, you've missed something :wink[3]:

You either don't have power where you should or the fuel delivery you think you do...

I assume you have an SES light (from unplugging the ICP) do you have any way to scan for codes or perform a Buzz Test? Could you have disturbed the UVCH connectors?

Unless really cold (under 25F) you should still be able to start without GPs, Something Else is going on, ReCheck everything again!

 

[bluemaruder001]

UPDATE: I conducted a buzz test and tested successfully. I did get SES light when unplugging ICP. I removed fuel filter, turned on key and bowl does fill, it seems at least to me it fills slower than my 01 does. I get no white smoke, no hint of fuel out of exhaust, no nothing. I have fully charged both batteries, plugged in for 5 hrs and still nothing....

 

[NoRalPh]

So, if there are no other codes, that would have me looking at Fuel Delivery & Pressure. Get a Gauge on it if you can...

 

[SCUFFY828]

if you are able to run a buzz test then you should be able to read data , see what your rpms are ,also check and make sure you have twelve volts to one side of ipr regulator , monitor oil pressure and make sure its getting high enough to fire ,say 400 at least ,start there

 

[bluemaruder001]

I do not have a gauge, I will have to borrow one from auto zone. I have the test port on the back of the bowl so should be easy as long as their kit has the right connection. I will try to get some data at lunch or tonight and post the findings

 

[bluemaruder001]

UPDATE #2 I measured fuel pressure and it was right at 60 psi with key on engine off. I compared to my 01 and the 03 pressure took longer to come up to 60 than the 01. I have done the Hutch/Harpoon mods on the 01, NOT on the 03 and both have new fuel pumps. I was thinking this could be the difference. I thought I had read somewhere on here that the bowl heater can cause a no start, I unplugged and VOILA! it runs!! I rebuilt the fuel bowl a few weeks ago and it has been running fine until this weekend and when I looked in bowl last night everything appears to be ok and connected.

Now that I have it nailed down, what should I look at to fix? The element inside the bowl or I am guessing a exposed/shorted or some type of wire/connector issue. I assume no harm in leaving it unplugged??

Thanks!

 

[NoRalPh]

That's actually very interesting....

You're saying that Fuse #30 (the Fuel Heater & PCM) isn't blown, the WTS works as it should (coming on/off), but it wouldn't run until you unplugged that heater element from the fuel bowl????

Typically what happens is, the element rots and causes a short that blows the fuse (the WTS stops working). The PCM goes unpowered and you get a No Start. Unplugging the Heater doesn't help at all until you replace the blown fuse and supply the PCM with power again.

BUT,,, in your case,,, the draw from a bad element wasn't enough to blow the fuse, wasn't enough to confuse the PCMs power to cause the WTS not to work, and still left you with a No Start condition....

I've Never heard of such a thing, it's either a 1-in-a-million situation or a coincidence :wink[3]:

I wouldn't do anything about it just yet, you don't need a Fuel Heater at all (people eliminate the fuel bowl and that heater all the time without a problem, even in the coldest of climates), and would drive it like it could happen anytime again!

 

[bluemaruder001]

That is correct, fuse is not blown, checked with meter, WTS light comes on and I can feel the GPR engage and disengage and I notice the voltage drop while plugs are on. I have never had this happen on my 01 but this 03 has had a bit rougher life than the 01 should I plug the heater back in when truck is running?
what would/could it do?

 

[NoRalPh]

Sure, give it a try, see if it dies when plugged back in. You could always unplug it again

Here's another thought though, what if this is the IPR plugs wires? They can have the insulation cook-off and bare wires touch. Messin' with the heater plug and maybe you "unshorted" them?

The situation, as you describe, really seems kinda unlikely. That the heater element can cause such a problem and still have the PCM function so well...

 

[bluemaruder001]

UPDATE #3 I cranked truck up with heater unplugged, truck fired right up and I pulled heater fuse, truck died as expected. Re installed fuse, and plugged heater back in and cranked truck and it fired right up.... I checked the wires for the heater and the IPR and they looked ok. I drove it around the block (about 2 miles) and tried to see if it would die and it ran fine.

I am stumped. I guess I will just have to keep an eye on it, at least if it dies, pretty sure how to fix it