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Discussion Starter #1
This is the next chapter in the repairs to my 2003 6.0 Powerstroke 4x4 Crew Cab. I will rebuild this entire thing, I am not giving up damn it.

The previous repair was a non-functioning IPR valve - I cleaned it by actuating the plunger, flushing with WD40 and putting a new screen / o-ring kit on.
You can read the diagnostic steps here: powerstroke.org/forum/6-0l-problems-forum/1357867-2003-6-0-died-while-driving-crank-no-fire.html

Here we go:
Truck ran great with the repaired IPR. Took me 5000 miles without an issue.
Then it began not wanting to start for at least an hour after you shut it off. So I would just let it idle if I was stopping anywhere quickly.
I came back to it at idle, and it had shut off. Crank, no start.

Cylinder Code p0281: Cylinder #7 Contribution Balance Code
Possible compression issue? Injector failure issue? Fuel delivery???

I got it to start the next day and it had zero power. My nephew's electric John Deere tractor could cross the roads faster.
All I heard was the whistling of the turbo increasing, no rpm increase and a mostly unresponsive throttle pedal while in gear.
I limped it home and it stalled in the drive way.

I changed the Oil Filter, Shell 5W40 T6 synthetic oil, Primary and Secondary fuel filters with o-rings (all Motorcraft filters).
Secondary fuel filter looked pretty worn out this time.
And I load tested the batteries, one failed, replaced them.

I cycled the key 3 times to ON for 30 seconds each to remove any air from the line. Truck cranked and fired right up, purred like a kitten.
Let it idle and came back after 10 minutes, still sounded great. Gave it a bunch of throttle, revved up fine, dropped back down to idle and it began chugging. Tried to throttle up and it died. :dunno:

Now I have Cylinder Code p0284: Cylinder #8 Contribution Balance.
(Cyl 7 on the rear passenger side of engine and cylinder 8 on the drivers side)

Crank no start. Has not fired up since.
Checked diagnostics (see attached image). Through use of Forscan and OBDLink MX Bluetooth Scanner amzn.to/2uJcyBH

Figures while cranking:
ICP Pressure: 1758 psi / 2.23 V
IPR Commanded: 42.58 %
FICM Sync: YES / 48.5 Volts
(been cranking a while at that point, normally higher voltage)

Checked secondary filter to make sure it is filling with fuel.
By removing filter cover and filter, turn key to ON for 2 seconds while looking through windshield and under the hood.
Bowl filled up very quick. No air bubbles coming from the line of the Horizontal Fuel Conditioning Module (HFCM).

Really bled the fuel system and made a mess.
Cracked open the passenger side banjo bolt on the front of the head below the alternator (11/16" I believe). Cycled key to on 3 times for 10 seconds.
Be sure to throw a piece of cardboard down.
Tightened the banjo bolt back up. Cycled key to ON a few more times. Cranked and no start.
Seems so close.. like it really wants to fire. And I cranked it like I really wanted it to fire. :shots: Batteries charging.

So I was thinking, maybe the IPR is faulty again?
Although it is being commanded at the correct percentage, and I am showing pressure on the ICP from the HPOP. But why not pull it? Hook it to an air hose and put 12V on it? The last time I cleaned it and tested it this way it worked.
Pulled IPR valve, cleaned it, tested it with the air hose and nothing. The solenoid does not actuate to stop the flow when placed on 12V. I am thinking that is weird with the ICP readings being good. So I replaced the IPR valve thinking alright, awesome, here we go! No change. Crank, no start.

(Side note: I also replaced the ICP sensor and pigtail, it seemed to read correctly but leaking oil.)


History of the truck:

I removed the injectors when I first got it. Found some that were loose, no copper washers. So I cleaned them all up and installed new o-rings and washers.
Before I did this, the truck would barely run and it would cover the neighborhood in black smoke like a steam locomotive.

It has ran great for 30,000 miles other than a few hiccups. Likes to puke some coolant out of the degas bottle when under very heavy load. But the issue never got worse or seemed to cause a problem. I know, I know... :nutkick:

So here is what I am thinking:

Injectors. But wouldn't it still start a bit, run like hell and be blowing black smoke again?

Head Gasket. Ouch. Puking coolant has added up and it just couldn't take it any more. But after the initial stall at idle, limping home, fuel filters / oil change, the truck fired right up? Sounded better than before at idle, revved up effortlessly but then chug... chug... stall, crank, no start?

High Pressure Fuel Issue. But that fuel is priming up super fast with no air bubbles? Triple checked fuel filters and o-rings. Researching testing procedure.

Injector Failure Causing Negative Fuel Pressure. Researching how to test that one next.


So that is where we are. I appreciate if you took the time to read all of this.
I just assume write down all the info that I can to help my diagnostic or help someone else with their diagnostic.
I am going to get back at it. Any thoughts, ideas or prayers to the Powerstroke Gods is appreciated.
:noteworthy:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So I performed the injector bubble test to inspect for combustion gases getting past the injectors into the fuel system.

Opened up secondary filter on top of engine. Removed filter. Turned key to ON for 2 seconds to fill bowl.

This time I noticed small air bubbles coming from the HFCM line. I also noticed that the bowl was not that full when I opened the filter housing.
Are either of these normal after the truck has been sitting a while?

Key off. I jumped the starter with the plug on the passenger side to the battery positive. Engine cranked while I watched the fuel in the housing. No bubbles at all.

So this means I can cross negative fuel pressure off the list, or a loose injector or washer?

High Pressure Fuel Issue?
 

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Buzz test the injectors.
Listen carefully to each buzz and be sure they are relatively equal and strong.

I would also want to see a figure for fuel pressure. Not just the bowl filling
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Performed the injector buzz test. Did not sound like the YouTube video. It sounds like only 2 injectors chattering during the initial test sequence of all the injectors, then I count only 2 injectors during the single test every time. 1 passenger side, 1 driver side. Towards the front of the engine.

I also pulled the primary fuel filter and checked the cap and installed the old o-ring. Put a new o-ring on the fuel/water drain plug. That did not change anything.

I ordered the fuel pressure test kit. The fuel pump primes for about 12 seconds every single time you turn the key ON.

Edit: I also wanted to say that when the key is turned to ON, the injectors chatter away and sound the same as they always have.
 

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Have you checked the ficm connectors, making absolutely certain they are fully seated?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, FICM connections are tight and secure. I was just thinking about checking for 48V at each injector? Need to research testing procedure
 

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Testing live is always preferable.
What i normally do is just plug in a known good injector and run the buzz test. Doing this for whichever cylinder(s) failed.
 
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