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Discussion Starter #1
Problem has occurred for about the pass 2 months. Currently had my starter and all my battery connections replaced(By shop) along with injectors(My self) within this time period. I've read multiple forms on this topic and seems majority found either starter or bad ground. My case is neither, batteries are good. I clean both grounds to both sides( One to frame and one to engine) Also if I take the cable located on the passenger side and push against positive battery terminal the starter kicks on.

During these hard 2 months I replaced ignition switch, ignition cylinder, and a consistent clicking relay which I believe was the flashers. The problem went away... for a day then came back to kick my butt. All parts replaced are OEM. For the starter it is an after market and battery cables are the " Custom battery cables"

The shop kept the truck for about a 2 weeks to see if they can get the problem to reoccurred but did not happen. Literally a day later she was kicking my butt again.

Going into details on the starting issue:
When turning the key over I hear a click which is the starter relay and the solenoid on the starter. I had my wife help me out and turn the key over and hit the solenoid a couple of times and did not turn over. The weird thing is that when I quickly turn the key off and on it will sometimes turn over and sometimes it does not. Now going into the starter connections. I had my location shop do the battery cables. They are pretty beefy but my concern of them being big is that the positive and negative connections are literally a cm apart which I believe could create an arch? I also did swap relays to confirm it is good. Same problem occurred. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

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If there arcing on each other you should be able to see the arc spot on the cables where ever you think they may be arcing


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Also if I take the cable located on the passenger side and push against positive battery terminal the starter kicks on.
You need to look into this more.
Also, just because parts are new, doesn't mean they are good. Especially with starters.
Now maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are saying. They didn't replace the cables, just the terminals? If this is the case, thats where you need to look, that goes with my quoted section above.

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Discussion Starter #4
If there arcing on each other you should be able to see the arc spot on the cables where ever you think they may be arcing


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Good point i did not think about and no there is no mark.
 

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That rules out that part. I’ve definilty seen “new” starters that are bad myself. Process of elimination. Start with the easy things to check


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Discussion Starter #6
You need to look into this more.
Also, just because parts are new, doesn't mean they are good. Especially with starters.
Now maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are saying. They didn't replace the cables, just the terminals? If this is the case, thats where you need to look, that goes with my quoted section above.

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Sorry if I was not clear, but yes battery cables were replaced.
When I say cable I meant the cable that runs directly to the starter. When I connect that to the positive terminal the starter kicks on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That rules out that part. I’ve definilty seen “new” starters that are bad myself. Process of elimination. Start with the easy things to check


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Yeah thats what I was thinking in the beginning when this started because I never had this problem before. But the shop told me that this was not the case. So I started doing my own research/.
 

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I hear that. More and more we need to do our own research. If the computer doesn’t tell them what part to replace they have no idea half the time!


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So, ...if the starter jumper causes the starter to turn
then you need to look at the supply for that wire
this would be the start relay in the cab and the harness feeding that power

Have you replaced the start relay in the fuse box?

jump from terminal 30 to terminal 87 in the fuse box(start relay) -- does the starter turn reliably?
look up Bosch mini relay if you are not sure of the terminals
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So, ...if the starter jumper causes the starter to turn
then you need to look at the supply for that wire
this would be the start relay in the cab and the harness feeding that power

Have you replaced the start relay in the fuse box?

jump from terminal 30 to terminal 87 in the fuse box(start relay) -- does the starter turn reliably?
look up Bosch mini relay if you are not sure of the terminals
I can look into the harness itself tonight. But as for the fuses I replaced 110 113 116 the original ones I pulled were good but I made the swap as a precaution. As for the relay (307) I did not replace. All I did with the relay is swap to justified if it was bad but had the same outcome after swapping with multiple relays. I did spray the jumper cable with electronic cleaner when this first started. I do not think I mention this before but I never had this problem until I got my starter replaced. Which is why I'm leaning on the starter. But the truck is 17 years old so it can be anything.

I just called the shop and is willing to swap the starter. I just have to mail mine in since I no longer live near the shop anymore 🙃

Here is the fuse diagram I used:
 

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Thought you said the jumper wire made the starter run each time you used it?
if so, the starter is fine

The relay in the fuse box supplies power just like when you use the jumper wire
if the relay contacts are bad or the terminal 30 power input has a problem, then need to look at that

Personally, I would test with a volt meter the voltage at term 30 when the key is in the start position
you can use a small wire to piggyback into the 30 term so you can use the volt meter with the relay in place
 

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The PCM grounds the starter relay to provide power. It could be a PCM thing - assuming that the starter spins with the solenoid jumper wire.
 

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One of those relay breakout adapters would be real handy to test if the problem lies on the power side or the control side of the relay

He mentioned the jumper wire under the hood worked the starter
so, need to test farther up the power stream
I would start with the power side of the circuit, then work to the control side
but either way would work in the end
 
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The PCM controls the ground for the starter relay that is on the fuse panel under the dash (CJB). This "switched ground" is a (pink wire for the 05 and up year models) Brown with Pink stripe for the 03-04 years. It is pin #4 on the PCM left connector (C1381a), if you need to locate it. You can jumper that pin to ground and see if it starts.

That said, if you hear the starter relay clicking when the ignition is switched to crank, it almost certainly isn't a PCM issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I will follow up in the morning with y'all suggestion. If you do not mind me asking how does a relay breakout adapter work? Would you think a Ravelco installation could be the issue? I had it installed when I had all the cables and injectors installed. Really do not feel like paying $700 to have it install again? I thought about it when I forgot to put the plug in to start it about 15 min ago.
 

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Verify that your starter solenoid wire is or isn't getting power when you try to crank. You can disconnect the solenoid wire by the passenger fender wall and see if the relay side of the wire is getting power.
 

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Does the revelco use relays? If so, Those could be the problem, that and a bad ground or splice/connection.

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IMO it isn't the Ravelco if you are getting 12 volts at that solenoid wire when cranking.
 

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Could be possible to get 12 volts, but not enough amperage to engage the relay.
Also didn't see it specifically mentioned, o would go ahead and replace the starter relay.
I forget, do these trucks still have the fender mounted solenoid like the older trucks?

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