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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have looked all over in a few forums and have tried things mentioned, but truck still will not start.

2002 F-250 Lariat Super Duty 7.3L 124k miles

Engine cranks, tries to fire, will not start. Have a little smoke from tailpipe when cranking. Couple times it did start and run very rough for a few seconds before it died.

Good fuel flow at filter with key on
HPOP shows 3500psi
All fuses good - checked with meter
New IDM and PCM relays
Tach needle doesnt move when cranking, but have read where it wont on the '02's
No chip or tuner...bone stock
unplugged IPR...no change
New CPS...no change
New ICP sensor
New IPR
Batteries on charge whole time I've been working on truck
WTS works normal
Changed oil and filter
Changed fuel filter

Thanks in advance for any and all help.
 

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I have the same truck replaced cam sensor, batteries, had good fuel flow etcc.. mine ended up being the injector driver model but they also had to replace the valve cover gasket and pigtail. On yours the pigtail or connection might be burnt just a thought.
 

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or on mine as well but would start just wouldn't move truck if you haven't replaced those connections on valve cover gasket with the clips to prevent them from coming loose on there own that could also be the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The connections were tight and clean on both harness connections at the valve covers. No apparent damage to any of the wiring. I wanted to ohm out the harness, but with the info I had obtained, the pigtails were different and the wires werent color coded.
 

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I am definately not a fan of throwing parts at any situation but if you got high miles on your truck those valve cover gaskets and the pigtail should be replaced. once mine were replaced it started so fast I thought it was a new truck. The only other thing is get a code reader on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No codes were present when I checked. I might just have to had the dealer scan it or try to get the AutoEnginuity scanner I've been hearing so much about. I guess I was looking for anything else that maybe I havent thought of or found in my research. I appreciate the help tho. Anything else I find while diagnosing this problem will be posted.

Almost wish this had the 6.0 in it. I've had much better luck with those No Start problems :happydance:
 

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How about the IPR?

Wires chafed & shorted on the plug?

Has the tin nut vibrated off and the coil is sliding around?

You could try "rapping" on it to dislodge a stuck pintle (worth a shot.... ;))

You can even try taking it apart and cleaning it, I have this ->

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"IPR Disassembly

An IPR is a fairly robust yet intricate item. They are easy to service, but they can be damaged.

An IPR consists of two main parts: a pilot operated valve and an electromagnetic actuator. Each part has been known to give trouble. The electromagnetic actuator is in the end the solenoid was on. The pilot operated valve is the brown end.

To service the unit, first separate the pilot valve from the actuator. To do this, place the IPR in a vice. Then, use a sharp, good quality pipe wrench or similar tool to firmly grab the pilot valve body. (See picture). DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SQUEEZE THE PILOT VALVE BODY TIGHTLY IE IN A VICE OR IT WILL CRUSH AND BE RUINED.

A decent working pipe wrench works well. I've opened many IPRs this way without damaging any. The pilot valve slides on the inside of the body, so if it is crushed, it will stick and not work well.
Loosening the IPR
Once loose, the body will separate easily. However, there is a tiny needle in between the body and the actuator that MUST NOT BE LOST. (See IPR Disassembly Picture for a view of the pin.)
Normally this pin stays in the end of the body because of the oil that is present, but it has been known to come free. DO NOT LOSE IT.

More IPR Disassembly

Once the pilot valve is free of the actuator, disassemble the actuator by loosening the internal screw inside it. (No picture for this, just look inside where the pilot body screwed in.) It takes a big flat screwdriver to remove the internal screw, which is actually a guide for the actuator pin. (See IPR Exploded View Picture).
Once the pin and the internal screw is removed (guide actually), shake the actuator body firmly up and down several times to get the piston out.
IPR Exploded View

The IPR is now fully disassembled. It is possible to disassemble the pilot valve itself, but this takes a press and jigs to do it properly.

Servicing

Three things commonly go wrong with the IPR:

a) debris in the pilot valve
Using a small screwdriver, gently push in on the end of the pilot valve assembly. You should feel the valve move about 1/8" in and out and return to its seat with a bit of snap. Should the action of the valve be sticky at any point, use a combination of solvent, screwdriver motion and compressed air to clear any debris that may be trapped in its motion.
Operating the IPR

b) debris in the actuator piston area
Thoroughly clean the actuator body, piston, guide and pin. Lubricate them well with a very thin oil or solvent. Assemble the actuator only, but do not tighten. With the solvent as the lubricant, the piston should move freely. I.E. if you shake the actuator assembly, you should hear the piston sliding around freely. This will not happen with motor oil as the lubricant.

c) bad external O Rings.

Examine for wear/damage. There should be a backup ring and an O Ring. The backup ring should be nearest the actuator. Ford sells a rebuild kit consisting of the O Rings and a replacement solenoid nut.

Reassembly

Assemble the actuator end of things. Gently tighten the internal screw (guide). Don't over tighten this. It is difficult to describe how much torque it takes. A little more than the amount for a screw in a computer case.

Place the pilot valve needle in the body. Screw the pilot valve body into the actuator body. Tighten, but don't over do it.

Reinstallation

Reverse of removal. Tighten, but don't over tighten the IPR nut.

NOTE: A PSD WILL RUN INCREDIBLY ROUGH IF THE IPR NUT IS LOOSE. The symptoms of this will make you think you've got multiple bad injectors among other things. You might want to check it for tightness after a few hours of use.

BTW: Ford says that IPRs are not serviceable. They don't/won't service them. They rarely give trouble except for debris build up in the valve or actuator."
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got my Auto Enginuity in. Seems I got a P1212 code. Ordered an IPR and ICP sensor. Will update after those are put on. Seems the pressure starts out good (over 800psi) but drops intermittently (to around 285-300)

Sent from my SPH-M820-BST using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got around to replaciong the ICP sensor adn IPR. Reset codes. Still wont start...plenty of smoke out of tailpipe, and no codes set. So I have part of the problem solved. Also did Injector Buzz test and all sounds even and strong.

Anything else I may be overlooking?

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Maybe the high pressure oil pump is out? Maybe check that out.
I put on a gauge and it was showing 3000+ psi, but the computer was seeing it fluctuate below the 500psi needed. I replaced the ICP sensor and IPR and now the computer sees the actual pressure that the gauge is showing.

I swapped the IDM with a known good one from a 2000 7.3 and it ran for about 35 seconds before it died. Battery's are low so put them back on charger and will try again later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
UPDATE

Ok, so i don't know why it started for me earlier for the short time. (45 sec or so)

I put the IDM out of the no start '02 in the '00 and it started and ran fine....so the IDM is not the culprit. This truck is starting to bug the crap out of me LOL!!

AutoEnginuity shows no codes and all systems I can see affecting starting, are looking good.

Apparently the Gremlins are on the loose and evading my capture.

Time to just start swapping parts from the '00 I guess :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok. SO it seems that the straight pipe inside the fuel filter housing developed a leak and wasnt allowing enough fuel to the injectors. Will update once that problem is taken care of.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
THE FIX

The Stand Pipe has a plunger inside that was sticking. Also had some junk in the bottom of the filter housing that I cleaned out. New pipe and filter and she starts like a dream. Thanks to all for the help.....this was quite the learning experience for me.
 

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Thanks for the update and for putting closure on this issue. That is one "no start" condition I had not seen yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the update and for putting closure on this issue. That is one "no start" condition I had not seen yet.
Hey, no problem. I overlooked it before because I had great fuel pressure and a decent volume at the bowl. Cost me $400 to learn that lesson, but if it helps out any others here...then I'll gladly be the guinea pig lol.

This place has been a great resource for the 6.0's I'm glad I was able to contribute somethign that could be useful in the future.
 
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