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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there! I’m new to this forum. Nice to meet y’all! I have a 2002 7.3L F350 with new (year old) remand 4r100.

Replaced PCM, ICP, IPR, CPS, GPR, all 8 injectors, UVCHs, & glow plugs....

Symptoms: rough idle, no power (foot to floor and only get to 30mph), erratic shifting, billowing and puffing white smoke, no DTCs but check engine light comes on, intermittent knocking with no blow by, shuddering, 8 second or less WTS light, intermittent stalling, idle drops to 500rpm when coming to a stop from the highway. She only threw the ICP P1211 code because the lack of power. We nearly rolled back down a hill yesterday. I am posting my videos of her below (from husbands YouTube and mine)
Idle after almost rolling down hill, her fan is spinning slower than it ever has(sounds dumb I know):

Running:

The first symptoms that started this mess was a blinking OD light in the rain. Since then, rarely get the OD light but still have these symptoms listed above that continue to worsen. The second is her starter wouldn't disengage a few times and husband had to kill power from the batteries because she wouldn't stop turning over. That is the day we got white smoke and it never cleared.

I am really needing help. I’m a diesel darlin’ and he’s a gas guy. She seriously has me stumped this time!!!
 

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no DTCs but check engine light comes on
I confess I stopped reading as soon as I saw this.... :(

You have gone down a Rabbit Hole of bad decisions and advice and need to Stop now. Throwing parts at problems, and you've spent a Lot of money on things you probably didn't need with a list like that, is a poor strategy while ignoring what's right in front of you.

The simple answer is that you cannot have both the SES light coming on when it runs like that and NOT have DIC's. You just aren't using the right equipment. Once you do, you can start the process of doing a proper diagnoses ;)

If you're gonna keep & maintain the truck yourself I strongly suggest you get access to the special scanner software you need to do it.

To retrieve most of the codes you'll need to help and even do some testing look at the FORscan Lite or TorqueApp (you add an Android device and Blue Tooth Adapter for @ $30) OR the Windoze version with a USB adapter. I like this one for BT Android -> http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/

Just a few years ago you needed to buy a professional scan tool because our trucks need to have a scanner with a Library containing both the Ford Proprietary AND the Diesel Specific codes in it. Add to that, our trucks are Not, specifically, OBD-II so the Generic scanners the Auto Parts Stores have are of little use to us. But today there are some very good App based tools, that are close to what the pro tools do, for fraction of the cost.

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I have a 600 dollar tuner that runs all my codes. No codes. No one else can pull codes. Can’t communicate with PCM even with new PCM other can’t read. My truck did need new injectors and sensors they were never replaced.The problem started after injectors. She has a intermittent CEL with no codes starting last week only once or twice because we were stressing her or else my husband couldn’t get home in bad weather. All other previous symptoms have gone on for months.. And continue to worsen..Believe it or not... Continue to read and watch the videos maybe you could help all my advice came from here :/
 

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I have a 600 dollar tuner that runs all my codes. No codes. No one else can pull codes. Can’t communicate with PCM even with new PCM other can’t read. My truck did need new injectors and sensors they were never replaced.The problem started after injectors. She has a intermittent CEL with no codes starting last week only once or twice because we were stressing her or else my husband couldn’t get home in bad weather. All other previous symptoms have gone on for months.. And continue to worsen..Believe it or not... Continue to read and watch the videos maybe you could help all my advice came from here :/

If you have a windows laptop download the free program forscan and then buy a USB to obdII adapter BFX is a popular brand on amazon. Fords programming does not play well with MANY scanners so you're not alone in not being able to see what the actual code is to diagnose further. Does the truck have an Edge products or bullydog tuner on it by any chance? if so return the truck to stock programming immedietly if the truck will let it. Also keep the trucks batteries hooked up to a tender/charger. These trucks are incredibly sensitive to weak batteries and causes all sorts of problems makes the trucks act like they are possessed.
 

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I have a 600 dollar tuner that runs all my codes. No codes. No one else can pull codes. Can’t communicate with PCM even with new PCM other can’t read.
Again,,, there's no price tag associated with what I describe (" need to have a scanner with a Library containing both the Ford Proprietary AND the Diesel Specific codes in it. Add to that, our trucks are Not, specifically, OBD-II ") and you don't need expensive equipment. Less that $30 and an Android device is all it takes.

I think there is a possibility that, if you've tried multiple scanners that can't communicate at All, you could have a connection problem (most likely in the OBD-II connector itself). I would inspect that connector carefully while awaiting the adapter you should order right now ;)

In Any Case, throwing more parts is Not the answer. WAIT until you are able to communicate with the PCM and can monitor sensors and retrieve codes. Your attempt to fix your problem without that ability isn't doing you any good. That's what the system is for and what anybody else would use to diagnose what's going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you have a windows laptop download the free program forscan and then buy a USB to obdII adapter BFX is a popular brand on amazon. Fords programming does not play well with MANY scanners so you're not alone in not being able to see what the actual code is to diagnose further. Does the truck have an Edge products or bullydog tuner on it by any chance? if so return the truck to stock programming immedietly if the truck will let it. Also keep the trucks batteries hooked up to a tender/charger. These trucks are incredibly sensitive to weak batteries and causes all sorts of problems makes the trucks act like they are possessed.
Yes I have an Edge tuner with all available updates downloaded. She is stock at the moment, I will try the trickle charge tonight and let you know if there’s a difference. On the Edge her battery volts read 11v at cranking and first idle and then she will eventually stay at 13.8-14v. I thought the crank volts was a little low but didn’t think it would make her that cranky. Now that I think of it, she started acting up after we unhooked a battery to use for our tractor we were rebuilding. We ran it dead twice on tractor. After that the starter started acting up. Her idle sounds okay and when you finally put in R or D she sounds like a four banger..Lol😰🤐( Previous owners treated her very badly, they ran her with a crushed oil pan causing oil to foam.. )
 

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Having 11v while cranking is actually a little high. The Glow Plug system draws a Lot and, coupled with the starters draw, if all 8 are running for a bit before cranking on the starter I expect to see voltage go into the 10's.

02's are Much more tolerant about cranking voltage than earlier trucks. The PCM will not fire the injectors on a 2000 once voltage drops much below 10v but, in an '02 you can go into the 8's and still have the engine start (the threshold was just lowered in the newer PCMs because it caused too many problems where it was previously set)
 

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If you ran one battery dead twice its probably toast. The trucks alternator is screaming trying to charge it and its only killing the other good battery if it is still. I would pull them both and get them tested. Im betting its not the WHOLE issue but definately contributing since you metioned most issues started directly afterwards. Once you get the scanner though post up what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Having 11v while cranking is actually a little high. The Glow Plug system draws a Lot and, coupled with the starters draw, if all 8 are running for a bit before cranking on the starter I expect to see voltage go into the 10's.

02's are Much more tolerant about cranking voltage than earlier trucks. The PCM will not fire the injectors on a 2000 once voltage drops much below 10v but, in an '02 you can go into the 8's and still have the engine start (the threshold was just lowered in the newer PCMs because it caused too many problems where it was previously set)
Oh ok, I thought that was low. I’m not a battery or electrical person though. I had someones gate battery blow up on me when I clicked open and caused me to be partially deaf in an ear. Since then I try not to touch much things, I leave that to my husband lol. The PCM I put in the other day has all recent “updates”.
 

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If you ran one battery dead twice its probably toast. The trucks alternator is screaming trying to charge it and its only killing the other good battery if it is still. I would pull them both and get them tested. Im betting its not the WHOLE issue but definately contributing since you metioned most issues started directly afterwards. Once you get the scanner though post up what you find.
We will get the batteries tested tonight and I will definitely post results on both.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
We will get the batteries tested tonight and I will definitely post results on both.
Batteries and alternator passed.. sounded like 4 cylinder with no power till a few minutes later, all a sudden I had power, no shudder, no knocking, and fuel mileage shot up! Her temps at that time were EOT 195, TFT 140, AIT 88... what the f*** is wrong with her?
 

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What brand UVCHs did you use? Are the connections to them from the engine wiring harness in good shape? A problem here can intermittently cut power to an entire bank, leaving it to run on 4 cylinders


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Batteries and alternator passed
What brand UVCHs did you use? Are the connections to them from the engine wiring harness in good shape? A problem here can intermittently cut power to an entire bank, leaving it to run on 4 cylinders


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I can’t remember the brand but I got them from Dieselogic. The connections look good but they do need a little cleaning which I am going to do this weekend. While I’m working on her is there anything else I should go over? Should I take valve covers off and peek at some things again?
 

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Here are the results of the FORscan. Injector buzz test good and glow plugs good. I ran codes when i first got home from her acting up really bad today. That’s her codes when she’s running bad (I’ve always gotten 0475, not new). After she idled at home and I was figuring out app I cleared and rescanned, I only got my 0475. I attached some other values as well. Coolant temp doesn’t work after new tranny nor does gas gauge (from bed tank). I will post more tomorrow of her under load and values.
E954CAFC-C36B-412D-9F9F-074619633BFB.jpeg
3DB65D69-4CDB-4413-9D9C-B6EAD7C23B59.jpeg
 

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Coupla things,,, for now let's just concentrate on the PCM codes (those that start with a "P"). What you want to do next, now that you've noted all the historical codes you have, is to do an Erase All Codes and see what comes back right away (these are the important issues).

I have now looked at the three videos in your first post. It Starts OK it looks like, and I am not really hearing or seeing what's going wrong in the drive (seeing "low power" is hard to distinguish unless you say something like "I now have it floored" ;) ). But here's what I took away.

That 1211 code is significant, try driving it hard now, with everything erased, and see if it returns. I also noticed that the Fuel Gauge doesn't work and this can be significant when the engine runs really poorly and no code gets set (there's no pressure sensor for fuel and if you run out of fuel no codes gets generated). We have a common issue with a bad pick-up (not related to a fuel level reading) where you can start sucking Air with 1/4 tank. See if there's any difference in how it runs with a full tank. And finally, what up with the piece of fuel line on shift selector? (wiring there can effect the throttle position sensor).

You have Low Boost and EBPV codes (see if They return right away) and listen for that Jet Engine sound it makes from the tailpipe, when warming-up, once it Is warm (that restriction will kill Boost and a lot of power)

I would also consider getting a second app (TorqueApp, it's another $5 but has an easier to use display you can set up to watch the ICP & IPR sensors as you drive) If you get TorqueApp, be sure to go to the "Diagnoses on the Cheap" thread for instructions on properly configuring it.
 

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So far full tank no difference:cry: Icp 2600 and 2 spikes to 3200 ac petal 76% (all the way to floor) while it was acting up sound like misfires but indicates none. Same codes as yesterday when running like sh!t. Cleared codes again after acting up and it was only my two typical codes (fuel sensor and 0475) when we got to town reran injector buzz test all good.. shudders still and sounds like a pig beat to death lol. KOEO self test came back with 1211 but it comes on when I’m all the way down on petal just to do 30mph. Puffs smoke until WOT and suddenly now I have all power back and idles amazing, hardly visible smoke. Here is codes when it was acting up badly.
 

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I would want to monitor the HiPres Oil sensors while driving. There's a relationship between IPR% (which controls the ICP pressure by bleeding-off HiPres Oil) and ICP psi. High IPR would be an indication that the PCM was unhappy with ICP pressure (so knowing what the ICP pressure is, is only 1/2 the story. You want to know how hard it was to make that pressure).

This is why I suggested the other app, it's just easier to configure that screen with those two sensors to refer to while your driving (you can configure it to just those two large displays) and maybe the see the SES light come on at the time. If this were only about low power I would watch Boost pressure too but the 1211 makes me want to know why that's being set. And here I want to say that I don't see either one of them causing a miss or skip at idle.

The screenshots you posted are at idle, are they not? (didn't see RPM there but by the IPR/ICP it looks like it is). You say it was running badly at the time you took the pics?

For just general continuity, convert your MAP display to psi (100kPa = 14.5psi), but here's an interesting post you might look at and try unplugging the MAP as a test-> IF your 7.3 starts blowing white smoke, and stumbling -...
 

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I would want to monitor the HiPres Oil sensors while driving. There's a relationship between IPR% (which controls the ICP pressure by bleeding-off HiPres Oil) and ICP psi. High IPR would be an indication that the PCM was unhappy with ICP pressure (so knowing what the ICP pressure is, is only 1/2 the story. You want to know how hard it was to make that pressure).

This is why I suggested the other app, it's just easier to configure that screen with those two sensors to refer to while your driving (you can configure it to just those two large displays) and maybe the see the SES light come on at the time. If this were only about low power I would watch Boost pressure too but the 1211 makes me want to know why that's being set. And here I want to say that I don't see either one of them causing a miss or skip at idle.

The screenshots you posted are at idle, are they not? (didn't see RPM there but by the IPR/ICP it looks like it is). You say it was running badly at the time you took the pics?

For just general continuity, convert your MAP display to psi (100kPa = 14.5psi), but here's an interesting post you might look at and try unplugging the MAP as a test-> IF your 7.3 starts blowing white smoke, and stumbling -...
Yes idle, my phone wouldn’t post pic for 2000 rpm but: 1850 rpm , MAP 104kpa, 13.28 IPR, 6894kpa ICP. Still trying to figure out this app, sorry... nothing has been going right.. so could HPOP be too weak for new injectors? HPOP has 300k miles if not more.
 

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If this were a HPOP that couldn't keep-up with demand it still wouldn't cause a problem at idle. Again, missing or shuttering at low RPMs, where you have the least fuel and HiPres Oil demands, isn't going to be the cause. Low delivery that lets you down under load is more likely (watching the IPR/ICP while it falls-on-its-face will show you this).

Did you read that MAP thread?
 
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