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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I'm new here but have stalked the forum from google for a while. I've got a gremlin that has got me pulling my hair out.
02 7.3 randomly dies while driving. Tach falls to 0, cel, water in fuel and check gauges lights com on. I can hear relays clicking under the dash and a ping in the motor. I lift off the throttle and get back in it and she takes back off. Sometimes it once in a while and sometimes it does it several times in a row or several times in five miles. I get a generic idm codes present and a cps code. I changed the cps 3 times last one was from ford. Changed fuel pump and filter. Swapped ipr solenoid. Replaced icp twice. Today I noticed a miss while idling when I brought my horse home from the vet. Its 11 miles to the vet ran fine all the way there and half way back then did it probably 15 times in the last 5 miles home. It was lower 80's today. Ipr duty cycle never goes over 45%, hpop hits 3200 then settles down around 2600. I'm stumped and at my witts end. Please help before I lose my sanity and the rest of my hair. Thank you in advance for your help
 

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With your Throttle symptoms I would first check the OD sw wire for chafing.


Unfortunately,,, is seems we've lost the Best write-up on this by woodnthings :(

Next best pics I saw -> Voltmeter install / Chafed wire in steering column - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

It's not as complicated as it looks, draw out the lock cylinder, split the column covers, have a look at the wire bundle below where it exits the shift selector.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I'm working on it now. I'll let you know what I find. I appreciate the help. I have to take a horse to OSU hospital in Stillwater tomorrow I dont need to be broke down with a sick horse in the trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I got it apart. I can see where it's been pinched and rubbed a little but i dont see any bare wires. If I unplug it will the truck run to take it for a test drive to isolate the problem to or from the switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok took the switch out and ohmed the wires between the switch and the plug while moving all the wires around and pulling on them they all check out good. So I'm going to smear liquid tape on a few suspect areas and put it back together and keep searching. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update. After peeling back the heat shrink I found a chafed wire right where you said it would be. When I bent the wire to inspect it with a magnifying glass one tiny string popped out of a tiny little hole. Hope this does the trick. I'll post back. Thank you so much.
 

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Hope it does too, when it gets to be a bigger chafe it just blows fuse #45 so it's only when it just begins to that it can cause you problems and still keep the circuit alive.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Didnt fix it. Just got back from a test drive. I got a p1316 code now and a po603 which I'm sure is from the battery being disconnected. Any more ideas. I'm reading codes with my edge tuner I'm in the stock tune btw and for scan on my phone. Please help!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm getting a p1272 with the buzz test. Sorry I feel like I'm being a pain in the a*# here im just lost now been dealing with this for a couple weeks now. I guess I dont understand what a high to low side fault is. Power short to ground on #2 injector?
 

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So a 1316 code needs to be explored. To do this requires being able to perform a Buzz Test (a self-diagnostic for the IDM that can resolve further codes). Not sure, but I don't think you Edge is up to it. You really need something else, and there are some great tools for very little money.

But, you need this NOW! ~ right? ;)

So I would now look at your UVCH connectors as the most likely cause of a 1316 (without the ability to Buzz). The is also an issue where the bundle of wire coming from that Big Black Square connector over the dr side valvecover, as it goes Over that valve cover can chafe there (no so common is an '02, Ford addressed the issue by then - but check anyway)


If you're gonna keep & maintain the truck yourself I strongly suggest you get access to the special scanner software you need to do it.
To retrieve most of the codes you'll need to help and even do some testing look at the FORscan Lite or TorqueApp (you add an Android device and Blue Tooth Adapter for @ $30) OR the Windoze version with a USB adapter. I like this one for BT Android -> Amazon.com: Bafx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 / OBDII Diagnostic Car Scanner & Reader Tool for Android Devices - Read/Clear Your Check Engine Light & Much More: Automotive

Just a few years ago you needed to buy a professional scan tool because our trucks need to have a scanner with a Library containing both the Ford Proprietary AND the Diesel Specific codes in it. Add to that, our trucks are Not, specifically, OBD-II so the Generic scanners the Auto Parts Stores have are of little use to us. But today there are some very good App based tools, that are close to what the pro tools do, for fraction of the cost.



That is all about an IDM issue, but I'm not sure All your symptoms sound like they could be IDM related. Those "Clicking Relays" also concern me and, in an '02, there is another common issue where the fuse box "starves" for voltage because of a bad connection to the fuseable links that feed it. A quick and easy check by looking at that connector -> POTENTIAL ELECTRICAL CORROSION if your truck is like mine......
 

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You can Buzz! Great!

Check over the wiring & UVCH as described above, either a shorted wire (like over the valvecover) of a Burnt Pin (like in the Video)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Buzz test all sound pretty similar. Got code p1272, unplugged uvch harness no burnt pins or plugs there. #2 is 3.4 ohms and so are the rest on the left bank. Which pins do I check from the big connector on valve cover to the idm? I thought I had a pin out but of course cant find it. Thank you
 

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Be sure to Roll the bundle over where it's closest to the dr side valvecover, that's where they chafe...
IDMconnectorPinPot.png
 

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This is commonly refereed to as the 42-pin connector.

If you get your hands on the IDM, shake it and listen for signs of Water inside (there's a Vent hole on the side that often fails and lets water in).
42_pin_connector_InjectorPins.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When I ohm out the 42 pin plug to the ouch plug all injectors are good on the left bank except #8 it's open between pin 10 and #8 injector on the uvch plug. If I plug uvch units open between 11 and 3, 11 and 6, 11and 8, 11 aand 10. Also found a wire pulled apart on the control side of the glow plug relay and a control wire on the IAH relay post is broke and wiggling I dont think my problem is there tho. PULLING MY HAIR OUT. But thanks for the help I'll keep digging
 

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I gotta tell ya though...

This engine will run on only 4cly. IF your #8 had some intermittent connection (it isn't all-the-time or it wouldn't Buzz right and you'd always have a miss) it wouldn't Quit on you because of it. In Fact, a bad IDM wouldn't be at the root of a Quit & Restart either I don't think. You might well have an IDM related issue but, there's something else going on to have what you describe.

I want to go back to Voltage. I would put a meter, all the time, on the in-cab Outlet (cig ltr) to monitor what it is the PCM is seeing. Too low and the PCM will drop out on you (killing the engine and your gauges). Maybe this is just a bad connection somewhere (did you have a look that the fuseable link connector?)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes I took it apart cleaned the connections and put it back together. I was pleasantly surprised it looked really clean even at 311,000 miles. What concerned me last night was I couldn't get continuity fro the 42 pin connector to the uvch connector. I was tired and crossed so I ended up pulling the whole engine harness out so I can go over it with a fine tooth comb. Spent all day at the hospital with the horse today so I didnt get back to it. I have to do some grader work in the morning but after I'm thinking of pulling the left valve cover to check for a pinched high volt wire going to #2 to chase that p1272 code. Do you think a high voltage open or short to ground would cause the idm to shut down and reset? Im also planning to pull the idm and check it like you suggested and ohm between idm and 42 pin and idm and uvch connector. Also on your truck you found a bad wire at the pcmcia connector?? Thanks again for your help.
 

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I guess it's possible that the IDM could also "drop-out" but I just haven't come across it. I believe the electronics in the IDM are divided between the two sides and is why problems usually kill one side only (plus, you have an unusual recovery, why wouldn't "stay" broken?)

By the pcmcia connector, are you referring to the Edge connector? You have a Tuner connected to the PCM? If so, take That off for testing purposes, that connection is often troublesome. If you mean the PCM's "firewall" connector, off-hand I don't recall having a problem there, but maybe ;) A bad connection there, or even a bad PCM itself, could do what you're seeing. Again, I think more likely than an IDM for quitting and restarting.

I am still concerned with those "clicking relays" though. This is a sign that the system voltage has become so low that the coil inside the relay, that holds the contacts together with electromagnetic force, has weakened enough to unlatch it. Low Voltage causes all sorts problem with everything electronic in your truck. Since you have no voltage problem with the Starter, on the restart, this would more likely be an issue with the PCM's supply and that Outlet is also on one of them (making it an easy place to monitor what the PCM is getting).
 

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Don't know how much help this is. Years ago I had a ts chip that came loose and caused the truck to run like crap and then die. I also had the relay clicking noise. Took chip out and fired up and ran perfect. The chip plugs into the printed circuit board of the pcm.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #20
My tuner hooks to the aldl it's not a chip. I thought about that as well so I checked to make sure there wasn't a chip in it and set my to tune back to stock. I'm still through the harness wire by wire. I will pull the idm next make sure everything is dry and add some dielectric grease. I may swap it with my other truck just to see what happens. Thank you guys keep it it coming I need the help.
 
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