recently replaced the GPR and block heater cord and coil. truck doesn't like to start after being plugged in. timer turns on at 2am and I leave at 6am. the temp gauge on the dash doesn't show any type of heating up. cranks but doesn't turn over and if im lucky enough it will turn over but then die. white smoke is visible upon start, once started there is no smoke. temperature her in Castle Rock was 22 this morning. I cycled the GP 3-4 times for 10 seconds each. doesn't seem to help. yesterday was colder and started but didn't like it. (also plugged in). running a stiction additive since fresh oil change a week ago. Ended up stopping this morning because the batteries were getting low and crank speed was slowing down. batteries are running at about 12.84 and that's what showing up on me batter side of the GPR and turn key then archs to the GP side with same amount. I haven't checked the fuel filter today (was running late for work). going to check when I get home. Mechanic say he replaced the GP and Injectors when the truck wouldn't even start in the summer. I have had one successful block heater start and proper gauge movement showing it worked about one time. In warmer temps she starts fine no problem all through out the day. Im hitting the wall with ideas I cant think of anything else at the moment. Need your help!
02 7.3 Cold Start Issue
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Also want to check the actual glow pugs only about 8-11$ a piece but they're known to go out and even read correctly when they are out. Sorry about the cold starts. do you have a scanner or programmer capable of showing the engine oil temps? also you could feel the oil cooler and see if its warm etc,
I’m thinking about just doing the GP. Since they’re cheap might as well replace them to know they’re new. And I have felt it and it was warm and no programmer or anything yet!
The block heater I checked before installing it. Immediately got hot from plugging it in. Glow plugs I can’t tell you if they are working or not. Should be since they were replaced a little bit ago
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Plenty of threads on how to use a meter to ohm test the plugs.
As for oil temps, I don't recall if the 7.3 had the ability in the PCM to read that. I'll have to check with mine.
But Using android tool called Torque App - which is like $5 to buy (and well worth it.) along with a bluetooth OBD2 module,
(which I would recommend this one, it's a little more than others - but has by far the least amount of issues with people using it to connect)
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Product...45&sr=8-1&keywords=bafx+elm327+bluetooth+obd2
Using Torque - you enable the settings to load in the Ford Powerstroke PID's to talk to the PCM, and you'll see the sensors in green if they're getting data.
so i checked the block heater next to the oil filter to see if it was hot or a little warm and it was cold so either the new block heater i just replaced is bad im going to check the cord with a meter while plugged in and see maybe i got a bad cord or heater.
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Start with just the cord, because getting the heater out of the aluminum housing is going to tricky.
I've seen many people crack the housing getting the heater element out.
Also - be prepared to get wet as all the coolant is going to drain out when you pull the heater out.
I've seen many people crack the housing getting the heater element out.
Also - be prepared to get wet as all the coolant is going to drain out when you pull the heater out.
Yeah I definitely got a coolant shower the first time I replaced the element. Too lazy to drain all the coolant lol. So update. Batteries are dead. Cranks no start. Heater block cord has power. Well atleast it lit up the power tester. Couldn’t get a accurate volt meter reading because I was doing it myself and couldn’t get the right angles. Batteries were jumped by a dirtymax for about 45 minutes of sitting and cranking every few minutes. Took the cables off and just clicks. So I’m pretty lost on what it could be.
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