[Bearmanjack]

Hi all. I am new to this site and in need of help. Hunting season start this week and I need my truck bad.

I have had this issue intermittently over the past couple years.

2000 7.3l diesel engine cranks well, batteries well charged/new, replaced cps and glo plug relay

When I try to start I cycle the warm up 2-3 times with the key. When I fully engage the key the engine turns over well and sometimes tries to start but will not. When this truck does run it is strong and a true war horse.

I am convinced the is something simple but am stymied.

Help please

 

[NoRalPh]

A Coupla things...

First, when you talk about "cycling 2-3 times", be aware that the WTS light and the GP's are In NO Way connected. Just leave the key ON (for up to 2mins depending on the cold) and they will stay on despite the light going off

Next, if this happens in the Summer, it's not GP related, must be something else. One a 2000, you can actually "see" the CPS working by the Tach needle so, if it rises while cranking it's doing it's job...

Also, do you see White "Smoke" coming from the tailpipe when you're cranking but it's not starting?

So, that leaves us with what? Well, without some monitoring scanner, to see what the sensor values are, it's gonna be hit-or-miss unless you can find some commonality when it does this.

Cold start Only (as opposed to a restart several hours later)?

No Outside Temperature where does it Not do it?

No conditions where it seems to do it more (low on fuel, oil change needed, parked on a hill etc.)?

Intermittent stuff is always a challenge!

Maybe examine both the IPR and ICP sensors. Make sure their plugs both look good, no missing insulation, not full of oil (a failing ICP will leak oil into the connector). You could try to simply unplug the ICP next time it happens, it will set a default value for the IPR to run on and that would tell you there could be something wrong with it. You can make sure the "tin nut" that holds the solenoid coil on the IPR was tight or hadn't vibrated off. Maybe "rap" on the IPR itself with a screwdriver handle or something (sometimes you can dislodge a stuck pintle inside).

BUT, in the end, what you Really need to point you in the right direction would be to have the right scanner so you could determine what was "Not doing what it's Supposed to do" when this is going on

If all else fails, consider getting your hands on an AutoEnginuity scanner!

 

[Bearmanjack]

Great stuff NoRalph

I will keep the gp tip in mind from now on

Tach does move as I try to start. Smoke from pipe always

Haven't seen a commonality yet as to when and when not. I've been reading many similar posts and a common recommendation is to get a scanner. Guess I will break down and get one. I assume they would work on more than one type vehicle so it would be a good investment for me. (7 vehicles!)

I'm not sure what the IPR and ICP are. Could you please elaborate?

 

[NoRalPh]

The AutoEnginuity will read all Generic OBD-II and CanBus stuff so it should be Very useful for you. For this truck however, you're gonna need the Enhanced Ford Package because we are Not, strictly, OBD-II. What it includes is the Software and an Interface, you supply an old LapTop or even a DeskTop computer. It's computing requirements are very low, even a 10yr old computer should do, and it costs @350.

Sorry for the assumptions :wink[3]: These are both a sensor (Injection Control Pressure) and a regulator (Injection Pressure Regulator) associated with the High Pressure oil that's used as the power source to run the fuel injectors. Here's where they are:

 

[Bearmanjack]

Thank you. Guess I will go get the scanner

Best