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    1. · Vendor
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      What’s the consensus for the fuel line rub fix in the valley? Wrap it with a small piece of hose and re attach the hold down, or just delete the hold down?


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      This kit. With the factory line you'll need the clamp due to the type of fitting that is used.


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      I have been thinking about this recently as I had a bad drain valve o rings and was leaking. Are there any benefits from removing the fuel bowl? I currently get about 9mpg pulling my trailer. My truck is completely stock with only 80k miles on it. At 65 mph my tach is about 2600 rpms as well. This truck is a 4x4 with manual locking hubs as well. Would a bank's tuner increase mpg? Or a different differential? Thanks for any and all input on both subjects.
      Removing the fuel bowl definitely cleans up the engine valley, but it's not necessary. I have fuel bowl reseal kits, and maybe something to think about is our bowl retain fuel line kit.



      As far as a tuner, this one is by far the most popular.




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    1. · Vendor
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      I'm a bit biased, but I'd do this fuel line kit vs the frx hoses.


      Otherwise the list looks good.

      With everything apart on the top, I'd inspect your under valve cover gaskets and harnesses, install a non-ebpv turbo pedestal, install plenum reinforcement bushings, inspect your CAC boots if they are squishy (oil saturated), maybe reseal your oil cooler, depending on how many miles, but consider replacing the low pressure oil pump.

      I have everything on your list and the things I mentioned on the shelf.

      If you want to put a list together and email me, we can quote you a package price. [email protected]

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    2. · Registered
      2002 Ford Excursion 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke
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      Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
      I'm a bit biased, but I'd do this fuel line kit vs the frx hoses.


      Otherwise the list looks good.

      With everything apart on the top, I'd inspect your under valve cover gaskets and harnesses, install a non-ebpv turbo pedestal, install plenum reinforcement bushings, inspect your CAC boots if they are squishy (oil saturated), maybe reseal your oil cooler, depending on how many miles, but consider replacing the low pressure oil pump.

      I have everything on your list and the things I mentioned on the shelf.

      If you want to put a list together and email me, we can quote you a package price. [email protected]

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      Thanks Corey! It was a very difficult decision for me deciding between the FRX and your 4 line feed. The fuel parts were the last thing I ordered.

      I forgot to put in that I'd already put in the plenum bushings, all CAC boots replaced when intercooler swapped 2-3 years ago (boots still look good), and the turbo pedestal had already been swapped for non-EBPV. I'm replacing the valve cover gaskets and harnesses along with pulling and resealing oil cooler. It has 290K miles on it now, hadn't thought of the LPOP but haven't had any issues with it.

      Cleaned up and inspected all the pushrods and rocker arm assemblies. All looked good and still plenty of copper on the tops of the pushrods. Cleaned up the valley and started swapping out HPOP when went to pull out the mounting bolt next to the ICP valve it came out a little too easily. When I mounted the new CNC Fab HPOP that bolt just spun and never started to get tension. Going to try a helicoil and if that doesn't work will go to the HPOP bolt repair kit as it looks like it will bore out enough for it's insert if the helicoil doesn't work.
       
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      I’ve been waiting for you to reply to this post because I have a lot of questions for you but I didn’t want to call on the weekend so I’ll ask them here for others to see if they are wondering the same thing. Obviously I’m going with the stock injectors. If I upgrade to a 70 psi fuel spring, upgrade to the bigger banjo bolts, and install a fuel crossover, would that be enough fuel to warrant a stock plus KC? And another question I have is, for only $100 more, why would one prefer the stock plus over the 63/68 if both can be sustained with stock injectors? I plan going 6637 intake, hydra with Jellibuilt custom tunes not canned, 4” MBRP turbo back w/muffler delete, and the other thing I’m trying to decide on is what to do with the turbo. I’m going with the bigger banjos and the 70 psi spring for sure. I thought about going with the Gillett diesel spring which is rated for 90-110 which usually reads around 95, but I’m not sure if that’s too high or not. I had one on my 2000 that I installed, ran it for about a week and then blew the steel return line from the back of the passenger side head to the fuel bowl. Had to change that in the rain, luckily the closest Ford dealer had one in stock. Couldn’t believe that. At the time the truck had around 260k so I’m not sure if it was just from it being old, because it blew right where the clamp holds it, or if it was the spring that made it blow. Or perhaps a combination of both. A whole other list of mods to go with these as well. I know the up pipes are done for and I’m not really a fan of just doing a compressor wheel and calling it good because this turbo has 120k on it and I have the funds to either build it up or replace with bigger. I don’t necessarily have the funds for injectors at the moment because other maintenance items take precedence over the new injectors I have, but I do plan to upgrade in the future. What would you do? Looking for 300 maybe 325 hp. Comparable to a stock 6.0. I don’t want to be forced into replacing the trans if I blow it with too high of hp before I’m ready to upgrade the trans. I’ll probably wait to do the trans right before the injectors since that’ll add the most hp. Once I’m ready to do the trans, I’ll be looking for 400-450. I’m thinking if I do the trans and injectors next year, it would be a better decision to go ahead with a bigger turbo now. Only question is, .84 or 1.00. I’m not going to take your advice lightly. I really appreciate everyone reading and also replying!
      You don't need any fuel pressure spring mod. That is a 6.0 thing. Monitor your fuel pressure to see what you actually have. Idea pressure for a 7.3 is between 55-65. Anything more is harder on the pump, and can cause the fuel bowl to crack.

      Oversized banjo bolts are an absolute waste money. We have many customer trucks into the 700+HP range with factory banjo bolts. Best kit for your needs is our bowl retain fuel kit. You'll have to replace your fuel lines eventually anyway as the factory hold downs will rub a hole in them.


      KC stock plus turbo is a new turbo with their balanced assembly installed. Benefit is it's under warranty, and if you're not comfortable rebuilding your stock turbo. Perfect charger for stock injectors. The 63/68 will be slightly laggy compared to the stock plus on stock injectors due to the wheels being bigger.


      Be careful on which 6637 you buy. They are NOT all the same, and are not cleanable like the AFE version, so in the long run, you'll end up paying more money for filters.


      With just a Hydra, you will be in the 325hp range like a stock 6.0L is. Brian does all the custom tuning for our customers, but you don't "need" his tuning to reach your HP. The Hydra comes with tuning for your truck if you want to save some money.


      When you decide on the larger injectors next year, you'll have to buy another set of tunes, so that's something to think about.


      As for injectors, 160/30 are very popular and will get you around 400-450hp. If you decide on these injectors next year, then go with the 63/73 .84AR housing.


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    1. · Vendor
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      I'd consider a non-ebpv turbo pedestal, possibly replacing the fuel lines as it's only a matter of time before the hold downs rub a hold in them. Pretty common to see and the main reason I designed this kit.

      Up pipes if they are leaking.


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    2. · Registered
      2019 F350 6.7l 4X4 CCLB SRW TOTALLY STOCK.
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      63 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #5 ·
      I'd consider a non-ebpv turbo pedestal, possibly replacing the fuel lines as it's only a matter of time before the hold downs rub a hold in them. Pretty common to see and the main reason I designed this kit.

      Up pipes if they are leaking.


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      i had already replaced the "easy to get at" hard fuel lines after one got a rubbed hole in it.

      i don't think i have the ebpv anymore,, i think the banks brake took it's place. the banks brake is a total piece of ****. doesn't work,, has never really worked. bought it new from banks in 2011. worst money i ever spent. had it professionally installed by decent ford mechanic. banks is so weird, sometimes you get someone helpful,, other times you get treated like ****. anyway,, i guess i have deleted the ebpv with a piece of decoration. i have a friend with exact same truck, he bought it with the banks brake. his works fine and good. i have literally and forensically gone over every inch of every wire and thing on his install to compare to mine and they are identical.
       
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