Carli Suspension - Official Thread - Page 345 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Suspension & Steering Discuss OEM & aftermarket suspension, lifts, air ride suspension, shocks, steering components, etc.

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post #3441 of 3975 Old 09-01-2016, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyd Ram View Post
Carli 2.5" Full Leaves

Air Lift 5000 Ultimate kit for a 2WD truck. (The 2wd kit mounts directly to the axle as opposed to the bumps stop tang on the stock lift block)

Air Lift bag spacer

Daystar air bag cups



I also converted to 05-10 style u-bolts and upper u-bolt plate.



At ride height:





At full droop:


Can you still run it hard off road? Or do you loose up travel?


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2015 CCSB F-250 4x4 6.7 diesel lariat, 24k miles
Carli 2.5in lift Coilover triple bypass system (Dan's old kit), full rear deavers, carli radius arms, raceline clutch 17in,rims, toyo RT 37in tires, vision X 40in light bar, Rigid Q2 driving pattern, rigid DOT fogs
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post #3442 of 3975 Old 09-01-2016, 09:49 AM
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Thanks! What's the difference in the older u-bolts and top plate? Are those required for the air lift kit to bolt up easier?
And same question as Jomax on the up travel? Can you run the bags down to about 5 psi to limit that?
Was the spacer required to tow level? Did you try it w/o before? And what size is it?

Thanks again, just doing my research!

--DREW
2001 F350 386 HP/ 754 Torque -- SOLD
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post #3443 of 3975 Old 09-01-2016, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyd Ram View Post
Carli 2.5" Full Leaves
Air Lift 5000 Ultimate kit for a 2WD truck. (The 2wd kit mounts directly to the axle as opposed to the bumps stop tang on the stock lift block)
Air Lift bag spacer
Daystar air bag cups

I also converted to 05-10 style u-bolts and upper u-bolt plate.

At ride height:


At full droop:
this is the same set up I'm converting to in my Drw to Srw swap , George what would you suggest for load assistance for a 2015 F350 4.5 dominator w/Deavers mounted to a 2008 Sterling 10.5 ...
I thought about nodding some used tembrens or day stars and bags????
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post #3444 of 3975 Old 09-01-2016, 10:01 AM
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[QUOTE=drz400smoto;14041690]Thanks! What's the difference in the older u-bolts and top plate? Are those required for the air lift kit to bolt up easier?
And same question as Jomax on the up travel? Can you run the bags down to about 5 psi to limit that?
Was the spacer required to tow level? Did you try it w/o before? And what size is it?

Thanks again, just doing my research![/QUOTE

this is on a 2015 F350 DRW..
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post #3445 of 3975 Old 09-01-2016, 10:29 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jomax View Post
Can you still run it hard off road? Or do you loose up travel?


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These are the bags with the internal bump stops and in this configuration you lose about 1" of total up travel I would guess. Since the bags are only attached with the upper bolts and a quick release air line you could always remove them when you want to get crazy. Just keep in mind that you wouldn't have any bump stops at this point since you remove them for the air bag brackets.

What I do is compress the bags by hand while someone holds the schrader valve open for a minute. This creates a small vacuum that holds the bag in a mostly compressed state for a day or so until the bag eventually moves out to is 0 psi setting. When you do this you have about 3" of up travel before the cup touches the bag and then another few inches before the internal pressure rises enough to add much spring rate. At that point you have already contacted the internal bump stop anyways.



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post #3446 of 3975 Old 09-01-2016, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyd Ram View Post
These are the bags with the internal bump stops and in this configuration you lose about 1" of total up travel I would guess. Since the bags are only attached with the upper bolts and a quick release air line you could always remove them when you want to get crazy. Just keep in mind that you wouldn't have any bump stops at this point since you remove them for the air bag brackets.

What I do is compress the bags by hand while someone holds the schrader valve open for a minute. This creates a small vacuum that holds the bag in a mostly compressed state for a day or so until the bag eventually moves out to is 0 psi setting. When you do this you have about 3" of up travel before the cup touches the bag and then another few inches before the internal pressure rises enough to add much spring rate. At that point you have already contacted the internal bump stop anyways.

That's not too bad. What size spacer is under the bottom mount?

--DREW
2001 F350 386 HP/ 754 Torque -- SOLD
2012 F150 Ecoboost -- SOLD
2016 F350 6.7 -- Bone Stock

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post #3447 of 3975 Old 09-01-2016, 10:34 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drz400smoto View Post
Thanks! What's the difference in the older u-bolts and top plate? Are those required for the air lift kit to bolt up easier?
And same question as Jomax on the up travel? Can you run the bags down to about 5 psi to limit that?
Was the spacer required to tow level? Did you try it w/o before? And what size is it?

Thanks again, just doing my research!
They weren't required. I just had a set of the 05-10 style u-bolts sitting here and got a set of the u-bolt plates from the dealer. It's just a cleaner setup and get rid of the u-bolts pointing down. With the u-bolts pointing down they can get hung up on more stuff off road and chew the threads up making it more difficult if you ever need to remove them.

These bags can be run at 0 psi since they have internal bumps and the bags don't suck in on themselves at full droop since I am running the Daystar cups.

The 2" spacer was required as this bag kit was for a 2wd so the brackets sat 2" lower than they do on a 4wd. If you were going to run without the Daystar cups you would need (2) 2" spacers.


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post #3448 of 3975 Old 09-29-2016, 07:06 PM
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I have a '11 F250 CC SB with a Carli 2.5 Backcountry lift and Toyo A/T 35x12.50x20s. I'm really happy with the lift, but the front end wants to wander just a bit. I have the caster shims installed and the front caster is maxed at 2.3 degrees. Most are recommending around 4 degrees of caster for these trucks. Will adding a 1.5 degrees of reduce the wandering or do I need to do something else?
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post #3449 of 3975 Old 09-29-2016, 07:20 PM
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Different setup, but similar issue. Currious to see what others recommend. Can't imagine that a radius drop bracket would be needed for only 2.5" of lift... But I'm out of ideas at this point as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bajaislander View Post
I have a '11 F250 CC SB with a Carli 2.5 Backcountry lift and Toyo A/T 35x12.50x20s. I'm really happy with the lift, but the front end wants to wander just a bit. I have the caster shims installed and the front caster is maxed at 2.3 degrees. Most are recommending around 4 degrees of caster for these trucks. Will adding a 1.5 degrees of reduce the wandering or do I need to do something else?

2012 F250 Lariat CCSB SRW:
H&S XRT w/ Gearheads tunes, Edge CTS, 5" FLO PRO DP Back w/ Muffler
S&B CAI, EGR Block Off Plates, No Limit CCV
Retro HIDs, ProComp 2.5" Stage3, Carli Track Bar, BDS Radius Arms, Fox 2.0 IFPs
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post #3450 of 3975 Old 09-29-2016, 08:49 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bajaislander View Post
I have a '11 F250 CC SB with a Carli 2.5 Backcountry lift and Toyo A/T 35x12.50x20s. I'm really happy with the lift, but the front end wants to wander just a bit. I have the caster shims installed and the front caster is maxed at 2.3 degrees. Most are recommending around 4 degrees of caster for these trucks. Will adding a 1.5 degrees of reduce the wandering or do I need to do something else?
What degree of caster shim are you running? And are the indexed correctly? I see a bunch of alignment shops get such a simple part wrong.

While 4 degrees is great if you can get it we've seen trucks straight from the factory with less than 2 degrees although it seems to be more of an issue on the '13+ trucks from some reason.

Also,
What are you running for tires and tire pressure?


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