I myself don't like traction bars because they look bad and degrade the ride. The videos I watched looked like the truck was being pushed pretty hard. I have had 6" of blocks on my old truck with 38" tires and I honestly had no issues with axle wrap. I think it depends a lot on how you drive your truck on how bad your axle wrap is.
That said blocks are not a good mix especially when towing. But that truck in the video was being punished, at least by my standards.
What is funny is alot of people don't even know they have axle wrap or even something such as bump steer....LOL. Then some of the 6.4 guys don't even know that some of their shifting issues can be from axle wrap. Or even the 45 mph HOP. I have been in several CCLB trucks that guys straight up say they don't have it and I tell them to drive 45 and by golly its there. LOL
I disagree about the traction bars. A good set of bars are not going to affect the ride quality. There really isn't any real negatives to adding a good set of traction bars to a truck. Especially when you TOW. Then if you really want to set up the rear of one of these trucks for ride quality. You can add a set of traction bars, remove some leafs (or get some soft replacement springs), add some air bags and it rides fantastic, kind of similar to a linked rear end. The bags pick up the extra load. Some of the leafs that are in the pack are there to deal with axle wrap and where the stops are located.
What do you think happens when you run softer springs? That is why when you buy a set of fabtech, superlift, tuffcountry, procomp, readylift... etc.. leaf springs they are stiffer. If you made them real soft and raised the truck you will be dealing with thousands and thousands of people complaining about towing their trailers. When you buy a cheap lift kit, it is made so someone can still try hook up to a trailer.
These newer trucks now have longer softer springs then what they had before. They have more power. I don't feel it is a good comparison to compare an older Superduty that had (guessing) the shorter leaf (possibly stiffer aftermarket) springs then to the newer trucks that have longer softer springs.
So in my mind I would always recommend (if I am helping a friend of mine out) to anyone that tows or uses his truck to run a good set of traction bars. Especially if he lifts it, or adds more power, or even just tows alot.
Think about adding bags to your truck and no traction bars. When the leaf springs are loaded (towing) they are naturally trying to fight axle wrap. Now you air up the bags. Once you air up the bags you now unload the leaf springs. So now the leaf springs will have a tougher time dealing with axle wrap. Then you combine that with having a tuned/d#[email protected]
%ted truck that is lifted and may even have some softer replacement springs then stock. You are going to have some issues. But I think alot of people that do this probably don't even know what a good lifted truck drives or tows like.
Its probably too late to make a suggestion about the lift for the OP. But I think it is actually a waste to run a coilover for such a small lift. No way can it compare to a good spring and a properly tuned shock. For the money you could have a really nice coil spring and an adjustable shock. So if you want it to ride stiffer or softer or fine tune it you can. You can't do that on a coilover. You are stuck with whatever valving is in it. A coilover is more at that lift height to just look cool. Think about the fact that if you don't replace the coil spring buckets and you just stick a coilover in place of a coil spring. You will have less travel then a comparable spring and shock, even though you probably would never need it or even care but the point is at that lift height it isn't worth it.