Track Bar Ball Joint Keeps Failing After Lift - Page 5 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Suspension & Steering Discuss OEM & aftermarket suspension, lifts, air ride suspension, shocks, steering components, etc.

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post #41 of 49 Old 10-26-2016, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhatlen View Post
Going back to your statement that a trackbars geometry can be changed without lowering it is not true. A trackbar does nothing for the geometry in relation to the steering drag link. It makes no difference what bends or kinks are in that bar. It's a point to point equation. Only thing the aftermarket trackbar can do is put the oem ball joint back to its neutral position and of coarse get shorter or longer as needed.
That was my point was correcting the track bar ball joint angle, not the track bar geometry. I left out "ball joint" on my last statement. I will edit my post for clarification. I'm well aware that bends do not matter

As for correction of geometry, correct geometry for the track bar is whatever matches your drag link configuration.
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post #42 of 49 Old 11-01-2016, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced the Pure Performance with the Carli track bar and made two observtions. #1, as was mentioned earlier by @ZMANN and @mhatlen , there was a little slop in the heim joint with the factory bolt. Using the sleeves that came with the Carli, no slop. Since replacing the track bar, I've hear no more pops, clunks, or whatever, although I only have a couple hundred miles on it. So, it seems this time around the clunk was from the top end, and not the ball joint like the previous cases (guessing the first was just coincidence of timing and the 2nd was just a lemon). Observation #2, the ball joint now rests closer to verticle side-to-side with the Carli bar, however the track bar tends to rest rotated toward the back of the vehicle. I seem to recall a post in one of the many Carli related threads somewhere that addressed this, and if I recall correctly is nothing to be concerned with. So, I'm going to drive it and see if anything else 'pops' up...

Oh yea - observation #3 (I know, I said 2...), using a 1/2" drive Snap On ratchet and 6 foot cheater bar to tighten the track bar bolt = broken ratchet. Should have waited on my buddy returning my big breaker and tourque wrench....

Thanks again, everyone, for the input!

Clark

2000 F250 CC Lariat 4x4 V10 - 270K miles and counting; Icon 2" leveling kit, Newton Lift 3.5" rear blocks, BFG 315/75/16 (daughter now driving...)
2013 F250 CC Lariat 4x4 6.7L. 63K miles. Carli 4.5" Lift; 37" Ridge Grapplers on 20x9 Racelines.


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post #43 of 49 Old 11-01-2016, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charbaugh View Post
I replaced the Pure Performance with the Carli track bar and made two observtions. #1, as was mentioned earlier by @ZMANN and @mhatlen , there was a little slop in the heim joint with the factory bolt. Using the sleeves that came with the Carli, no slop. Since replacing the track bar, I've hear no more pops, clunks, or whatever, although I only have a couple hundred miles on it. So, it seems this time around the clunk was from the top end, and not the ball joint like the previous cases (guessing the first was just coincidence of timing and the 2nd was just a lemon). Observation #2, the ball joint now rests closer to verticle side-to-side with the Carli bar, however the track bar tends to rest rotated toward the back of the vehicle. I seem to recall a post in one of the many Carli related threads somewhere that addressed this, and if I recall correctly is nothing to be concerned with. So, I'm going to drive it and see if anything else 'pops' up...

Oh yea - observation #3 (I know, I said 2...), using a 1/2" drive Snap On ratchet and 6 foot cheater bar to tighten the track bar bolt = broken ratchet. Should have waited on my buddy returning my big breaker and tourque wrench....

Thanks again, everyone, for the input!
#1 & #2: Awesome! Glad it's handled. Yes, the Heim on the top and ball joint on the bottom means the bar can misalign without deflecting. Grab int and rotate it front and back to see what I am talking about, no biggie. It will move as the axle shifts forward and back but is not a problem.

#3: Goot thing Snap-On has a lifetime warranty!
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post #44 of 49 Old 11-01-2016, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by OCVeloMan View Post
#3: Good thing Snap-Off has a lifetime warranty!

fixed it for you

Clark glad you have this behind you ! i don't think it will be an issue again

i will keep my eye on the classifieds for the Pure bar
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post #45 of 49 Old 11-18-2016, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charbaugh View Post

Oh yea - observation #3 (I know, I said 2...), using a 1/2" drive Snap On ratchet and 6 foot cheater bar to tighten the track bar bolt = broken ratchet. Should have waited on my buddy returning my big breaker and tourque wrench....

Thanks again, everyone, for the input!
LOL!! I know what you mean there. I snapped a 1/2" ratchet (cheap Stanley POS) and a 1/2" breaker bar the other day adjusting mine... justified me buying a good 3/4" drive set.

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post #46 of 49 Old 11-23-2016, 01:31 PM
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LOL!! I know what you mean there. I snapped a 1/2" ratchet (cheap Stanley POS) and a 1/2" breaker bar the other day adjusting mine... justified me buying a good 3/4" drive set.
That's the answer right there. I have a Proto 3/4" socket set and it's priceless when you are dealing with big stuff. If you got mula go with Mac or Snap On ............
That trackbar bolt takes a rediculas amount of torque.

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post #47 of 49 Old 11-23-2016, 02:42 PM
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worst part was I only need the one socket and a breaker bar... too bad all shops around me only carry full sets and not just individual sockets

2012 F250 Lariat CCSB SRW:
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post #48 of 49 Old 02-14-2017, 07:08 PM
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410 ft. lbs comes easy with a Tq. multiplier. Takes all the stress off the ratchet and you can do it without a cheater bar.
best money I ever spent.

Torque Multiplier 5X , 1/2" in and out, w/o torque Wrench - Ratchet Helper | eBay

Denny


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post #49 of 49 Old 02-14-2017, 07:34 PM
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funny He acts like he invented that ?
it's been around for a long time


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