|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-06-2010 08:48 PM|
|daimoku||Very nice! The transmission is 'picky' in that the computer looks for those specific voltages...1.0-1.1 at idle and 3.8-4.3V at WOT. Anything different and you can get the flashing overdrive light which indicates an error code. Anyhow, congrats!|
|04-05-2010 11:24 PM|
I set the TPS to about 0.6v at idle and I get about 3.6 at full throttle....and it shifts 100% better than it did before! I wondered if I should adjust the max throttle screw....but we're making progress in the right direction.
|04-05-2010 02:17 AM|
This is just the information I'm looking for!
Any idea if a bad RPM sensor would show up as a bad TPS sensor? I've adjusted the TPS sensor on my son's 93 F250 every which way I could find and nothing seems to help. We replaced the TPS and adjusted the new one within the range of 1.2v to 4.6v (idle to full throttle) with no joy. Then we set it at 1800 ohms +/- 50 ohms at idle position (based on something he found on the internet). Transmission still snatches your teeth out when it shifts. I'm getting the same codes as you.....23 and 14. I ohmmed out the RPM sensor and got nothing at all...I think the wires might be broken where they come out of the sensor. I'll check it your way with the meter set on volts tomorrow to see what that gives.
Thanks for all the info!
|03-13-2010 09:39 AM|
|daimoku||I'll try to take a picture of the max travel screw for you guys today. It's located above the passenger's side of the injection pump and it controls how far the throttle travels. If you use your finger to push the throttle back, you should see or feel a screw that stops you from pushing it any further. That is the max travel screw. The TPS needs to be adjusted to those settings with a multi-meter or it can cause the transmission to shift hard/limp mode. A cheap multimeter will run you less than $10.|
|03-12-2010 09:14 AM|
|Black&Gold||hey man I am working on a 93 IDI right now and replaced the TPS but never adjusted it. so what is this "max travel screw" you are talking about?|
|03-03-2010 04:05 PM|
The first step I would recommend is scanning for codes. Many auto parts stores like Advance do this for free. You can also check the calibration on the TPS (throttle position sensor)/FIPL (fuel injection pump lever) sensor...both acronyms are used interchangeably. You will see the TPS located on the driver's side of the injection pump...it has three wires coming out of it. Set it up as follows: turn key on, engine off, check the voltage between the center wire and either wire on the plug on the FIPL sensor with the plug in place on the sensor (use paper clips or such to push into the back of the wires on the plug and use them to put the meter leads onto) there are 3 wires on the plug. You are looking for 1.0-1.1 volts closed throttle. If you do not have the proper reading, loosen the 2 screws for the sensor and rotate the sensor to achieve the 1.0-1.1 volts closed throttle setting.You wont have to move it much to see a change in voltage. Also, check your voltage at WOT (wide open throttle). You should see at least 3.8V, but no more than 4.3V.
|02-03-2010 07:11 PM|
|codyh||tps and max travel screw? I have a 93 idi that shifts rough. Would love to get it shifting better. Also won't always downshift when it needs to. Sounds like you know what your doing. Any help would be great.|
|01-29-2010 06:42 PM|
|Black&Gold||WOW MAN! you have done a great deal of trouble shooting and research! here is to you It is not often you come across someone willing to do the research and trouble shooting as you did. oh and welcome to the org, we can definitely use the likes of you|
|01-29-2010 06:34 PM|
Alright, well don't everybody jump in here at once haha....
I bought a new RPM sensor today at the Ford dealership...$80.
Ford only part: Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A
Here's how to check yours:
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC/ 0 to 40-volt scale..
4. Start engine in park. Raise rpm while watching DVOM.
5. Voltage must increase or RPM sensor is bad.
That took care of the error 14 I was experiencing.
I also went ahead and bought the Western Snowplow relay because the dealership wanted $160 for a replacement GPR! It works, but it fits tight. For those interested, the P/N is 56131K and it cost $14 with tax. Anyhow, all is well for now. Still have a few leaks to take care of and whatnot, but the biggest concerns are resolved
|01-28-2010 07:56 PM|
In case anyone is actually reading this thread...I tested the RPM sensor today and it is dead. Test infinite resistance which of course means no power is passing through. Going to order a new one tomorrow. I suspect that will take care of the Code 14.
Can anyone tell me if the Stancor 586-902 or 586-903 glow plug relays will work in a '94 F250 IDI (non-turbo)? I've read where they work in the '96 F250 powerstrokes, but nothing about earlier models. Here's a pic of the failing relay:
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