|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-26-2019 10:35 AM|
Originally Posted by Hydro View Post
wobbled, like when the TC was seated all the way in the Trans? there is a bit of wobble there...
So my trip was 2934 miles. I did notice some things that had me worried quit a bit while I was 18 hrs form home in french speaking part of Canada where the high ways end and ferrys begin
I have a new distinct vibration at 20 to 25 mph
I also have a rumble at 55. Not like before though.
and also while sitting at idle I have an intermittent pulsing vibration
when the trans was out I also;
replaced rear drive shaft U-joints (spicer 5-1410X)
diff fluid front and back (amsoil synthetic and friction modifier)
Transfer case fluid (Schaeffers all trans supreme)
Installed Diesel site cooler line bypass kit
New internal filter
new external filter (for dieselsite external filter)
new fluid (schaeffers all trans supreme)
grease both slip yokes
I also tried to replace the the front shaft u joints, but i couldn't get the strap bolts off so I didnt get them quite yet, I just bolted it back up after greasing the slip yoke. I do know that it isn't in the same location on the flange though. I've read it doesn't matter, i've read it does. I don't know. I'll prob put it back. I would have anyway just to be sure but I accidentally rotated it and said screw it I was in a pinch for time and i was on the 4th bolt before I realized it.
I've read the tensioner and the fan clutch can cause some vibrations at idle, so I may just swap both. Also My tires being balanced kinda concerns me too, that will cause def vibrations at certain speeds as we all know. But all the driveline vibrations are driving me insane especially when It could be trans related...
My trans has a Factory tech valve body since 56 k and the external filter since 61 miles. I also wired up a TC lock up switch per Guzzles 7.3 write up.
The pump concerns me tbh. I may pull it again in the spring and do a pump from racer X also, and get the billet input shaft to fit when I have more time. I just know the pump requires some special alignment or something. Possibly also a billet flexplate.
|09-11-2019 06:16 PM|
|Hydro||Would suspect that at some time the TC bolts were loose or the flexplate was cracked -- the wear is from the tranny front bushing -- did you check to see if the TC wobbled in the bushing when you fit it in the case?|
|09-11-2019 05:50 PM|
well its back and running. old shaft new TC. no vibrations. just kind of worried about leaving monday for a 1600 frip into Canada. Ill drive it the next few days and see if any thing comes up. I imagine of there was an internal issue with my install I might no relatively fast.
thanks for the help, hopefully no Canadian emergencies lol
|09-09-2019 01:45 PM|
hell if I know lol the beveled edge on the new shaft isnt quite as steep as the old one thats the only real diff I can visually see
thanks for the help, as soon as I talk to him, ill be bolting it back up.
|09-09-2019 01:41 PM|
|NoRalPh||So then it must have to do with the input shaft splines? If their O/L is the same and the problem is that it won't go deep enough into either the TC or the Trans, what else could it be...|
|09-09-2019 12:21 PM|
|cesspool||so I removed the input shaft and the new TC seated right. I measured and the new and old shaft are the same length. but i put them in the new TC and the old one sticks n the TC an 1/8" more and then I did the same in the Trans and the new one sticks out 1/16" more. so thats 3/16" of an inch which is exactly how much I'm off. so I put the old shaft in the trans and worked it and I got the new TC to seat 1/8" below a straight edge across the face of the bell housing. so maybe the whole issue all along was the input shaft. Ill wait to talk to racer X, but I think Ill just go back with my old input shaft|
|09-08-2019 01:11 PM|
below is my reply from racer X. Ill talk to him tomorrow. is the pump a simple swap part?
Based on the photos, it looks like the old converter had excessive wear and end play, possibly itís come apart inside. That would wear the pump and hammer it, possibly explaining the ding in the front of the pump shaft. It thatís a gouge in the hub, itís been hammering against the pump inside, the photos look like itís been hammering on the hub end too, the score marks are probably from excess end play or pump wear. If the converter is completely drained and doesnít have enough ATF residue left inside that would provide a cushion, try shaking it and see if it rattles or you feel the internals move back and forth while shaking it. Has the transmission pan been removed and checked for metal particles?
Weíve covered as much as possible here, youíll have to talk to the tech dept on Monday if possible, or have a tranny shop inspect it if possible.
|09-08-2019 07:24 AM|
|cesspool||this is my 1st foray into a TC swap. I believed that was just a machined shoulder. it looks very uniform around the hub. I also never saw any metal, but I have an external canister filter. Ill see what he says. maybe my bushing is bad|
|09-08-2019 05:27 AM|
I see what they're talking about, that there is some galling there and maybe the ft bushing might be keeping the new hub from passing that spot.
I'd think you could pull the ft pump and replace the bushing (you should be replacing the ft seal now anyway). Might not be a big deal...
|09-07-2019 05:41 PM|
|cesspool||RacerX did email back and say the distance isnt the issue but it looks liek my old hub is gouged where I thought it was a shoulder, Ill see what he says next|
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