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Thread: Clutch won't disengage. No pedal travel. Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-10-2019 06:20 PM
trevdalocal
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pope23 View Post
That did it! I repositioned the control lever arm and now everything works great. Simple solution that was hard to find. Thanks for the help everybody. Obviously the nut on the bushing arm was loose enough to allow the control lever to slip. It's all tight now but I'm wondering if I should replace the pedal box and control lever to ensure that it doesn't happen again.
Glad you figured it out! I didn't think of the pedal itself being the point of failure haha. Like Patrick mentioned, the pedal box shaft "cuts" splines in the pedal arm when you tighten it down, so crank it down good. Sometimes the hole in the pedal can get hogged out from it loosening up and wiggling around, like it did here. If that happens, you'll have to order a new pedal so fresh splines can be cut. You want to install the pedal with as much "slack" or free play taken out of the system as possible. More than a few ZF5s have fallen victim to not enough clutch fork travel and lack of full clutch disengagement due to worn bushings and the like, that results in worn out syncros, mine included. Thanks previous owner... Seems Ford designed the clutch with very little room for error.
09-10-2019 12:58 PM
Pope23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Feeley View Post
The arm where the oit attaches to the pedal box mainshaft is splined (the splines grooves almost get cut when the shaft is tightened down). Possibly the shaft splines or arm are damaged? They shouldn't be loose at all as you really have to pry the arm off in it's normal state. Cheers!
That did it! I repositioned the control lever arm and now everything works great. Simple solution that was hard to find. Thanks for the help everybody. Obviously the nut on the bushing arm was loose enough to allow the control lever to slip. It's all tight now but I'm wondering if I should replace the pedal box and control lever to ensure that it doesn't happen again.
09-10-2019 11:36 AM
Patrick Feeley The arm where the oit attaches to the pedal box mainshaft is splined (the splines grooves almost get cut when the shaft is tightened down). Possibly the shaft splines or arm are damaged? They shouldn't be loose at all as you really have to pry the arm off in it's normal state. Cheers!
09-09-2019 06:55 PM
Pope23 One thing that I had not mentioned was that the truck wouldn't start when the clutch first refused to disengage. I got to thinking about that and figured either the safety switch went bad or the push rod wasn't pushing in far enough to engage the safety switch. So today I removed the safety switch and manually compressed it while turning the key. The truck fired up. So now I'm thinking that for some reason the push rod isn't going in far enough even though the pedal is all the way down and against the rubber stop. I double checked the length of my push rod with the Heim joint on it and the one that came with the new MC and they are the same.
Is it possible for the arm that the MC push rod attaches to to have rotated on the pedal box shaft? I checked the nut at that end of the shaft and it was a little loose. I was able to tighten it maybe a quarter to half turn. Can I loosen that arm and rotate it back to where it's supposed to be and not have to remove the whole pedal box? Or should I just replace the whole pedal box.
09-08-2019 10:45 PM
trevdalocal Hmmm.... What happens if you push the slave rod in when the pedal is on the floor? Does the master push rod come out/pedal come up? This is very bizarre. If you take the prebled set and push the two rods back and forth, does it do anything at all?
09-08-2019 05:29 AM
Pope23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Feeley View Post
The slave rod should move at least 1/2" when the clutch pedal is pushed. If it doesn't, there's something wrong with the hydraulics or pedal/linkage itself. If it is getting at least 1/2", pull the clutch fork boot off the bellhousing and see if you can notice anything amiss (TO bearing, bent fork, bad fork pivot, etc.). You might also remove the flywheel inspection cover and take a look at the pressure plate (does this truck have a Dual Mass or Single Mass flywheel?). Cheers!
The clutch pedal stays all the way on the floor with only about 1/2" of total pedal movement. If I pull up hard on the pedal, it just pulls the push rod out of the master cylinder. So I haven't been able to get the slave to move at all with the pedal.
There only seems to be very minimal movement in the pedal box bushings during pedal movement, but since I can't move the pedal while everything is is hooked up, there is no pressure to push against except what is provided by the spring.
I picked up a new fork and with a side by side comparison, I can't see that the old one was bent or more than slightly worn. But I installed the new fork just in case.
The truck has a single mass flywheel.
I have removed the flywheel cover and looked up through the clutch fork hole and don't see anything amiss but since this is all new to me, I'm not sure what I'm supposed to see.
As far as I can tell, the fork is reinstalled correctly. With the retainer clip on the slave push rod, I still have to push the rod in a bit to get the slave cylinder installed.
I sure appreciate you all helping me out.
09-06-2019 07:37 PM
Patrick Feeley The slave rod should move at least 1/2" when the clutch pedal is pushed. If it doesn't, there's something wrong with the hydraulics or pedal/linkage itself. If it is getting at least 1/2", pull the clutch fork boot off the bellhousing and see if you can notice anything amiss (TO bearing, bent fork, bad fork pivot, etc.). You might also remove the flywheel inspection cover and take a look at the pressure plate (does this truck have a Dual Mass or Single Mass flywheel?). Cheers!
09-06-2019 06:47 PM
Hydro When you mount the slave cylinder, you should have to push the rod into the cylinder about half of it's travel

mount the master cyl in a vise and have a helper push the slave rod in and hold it -- now use a 3/8 extension to push the master cyl in -- should force the slave rod outward
09-06-2019 05:24 PM
trevdalocal
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pope23 View Post
I ordered and installed a 3rd MC/SC assembly and got the same result; Clutch pedal stays on the floor. I'm wondering if the throw out bearing is bad. Though everything I've read about that says that when a throw out bearing goes bad, it makes a lot of noise. I've heard no strange noses.
Wow, that's bizzare. I haven't had to look at the clutch mechanism on my truck yet, but is it possible to look inside the bellhousing? Maybe the fork that pushes on the throwout bearing is bent somehow? Or perhaps it fell off its pivot ball inside?

Edit: Even if there was some other issue, the hydraulics should still move like normal when you manually manipulate them. Maybe you can make a quick video and show us what's happening?
09-06-2019 05:13 PM
Pope23 I ordered and installed a 3rd MC/SC assembly and got the same result; Clutch pedal stays on the floor. I'm wondering if the throw out bearing is bad. Though everything I've read about that says that when a throw out bearing goes bad, it makes a lot of noise. I've heard no strange noses.
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