|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-23-2020 10:49 AM|
Curious how that injector was working at all? Low fuel pressure at some time could cause the cap or spring to break, by slamming the piston down. A donor part from another injector may "fix" the problem, but you need to inspect the fit of the intensifier piston to the bore - there are no seals, and the fit alone keeps fuel from leaking into the engine oil
Possible that since the injectors are a Bosch design, that the plunger retainers from the inline(MW or A) series pump may be the same as your injector -- a scrap yard may have a pump laying around from a commercial or agricultural application
|02-23-2020 10:17 AM|
Minor progress update:
Engine block is back from machine shop. It had a line bore and a crank grind. New oversize bearings all around. Also a brand new camshaft and set of lifters, since one of mine had stopped spinning and started to carve a trough in one of the lobes.
And in other relevant news: I found a busted plunger spring retainer in one of my fuel injectors. I'm not entirely certain what problems this would cause, but one theory I've heard is that it would dilute my engine oil with diesel fuel. Diluted oil = spun bearings. Spun bearings = oil pump explosion. So much headache from such a small part. Bonus is that I can't find them for sale individually, so I guess I'll have to buy a core injector from somewhere. If anyone has a spare retainer kicking around, hit me up
AND just to add insult to injury: I accidentally torqued down my head bolts BEFORE installing the hpop branch tube assembly. The picture is of me compressing the valve springs to pull the pushrods, and hopefully bolt down the ends of the branch tube down through the pushrod holes. I'll keep you posted on how that goes, or if I blow another $750 on bolts and gaskets. Again. This motor sure does love parts...
|10-14-2019 08:10 PM|
|knotreel||you might get lucky on the crank, it may not be as bad as it looks, if machining is needed it shouldn't be much, 0.010 maybe. But who knows what was done before. The machine shop can boil the block out with plugs removed too. But it looks like there was plenty of debris in the oil drilling of the crank, I would take every thing apart that gets oil, new oil cooler, turbo disassemble and maybe the hp oil gallerys in the heads. If you find any metal chips in the hp oil reservoir that got thru the oval screen then the hp oil pump is suspect. Maybe that oval screen and the IPR screen (if it's intact) might have saved the heads from contamination. But surely the safest and fastest thing would be to bring the heads to the shop too and have them cleaned up too. At least you have got the bottom of the misery, I mean mystery. Congratulations|
|10-14-2019 04:48 PM|
|_Duke_||Well I did manage to drop the lower crankcase and get at my bearings to see what's going on in there. Turns out that #1 main has spun. The others aren't much better, but at least they stayed put. Rod bearings weren't very pretty either. No apparent wear on any of the crank journals, but I don't know how well the block has survived with the bearing spinning. I suppose I'll pull it out and get it to a machine shop and see what they think.|
|10-12-2019 06:42 AM|
"We may be homing in on something here. With the 3rd front cover removed, I can get some more leverage on the end of the crank. I guess I can't share a video on here, but I got a good 0.040"+ of side play in my crank, just pulling on it with one hand, no pry bar. Guess that's the nail in the coffin right there.
I was hoping to pull the lower main bearing caps, but alas I was confronted with this integrated lower crankcase weirdness. Is there a remote possibility that I can drop the lower crankcase in frame? It looks like maybe 4 bolts through the bellhousing flange? And then just the bearing bolts...?"
no matter how tempting it looks to just lay a new crank in, or change bearings on your old crank, don't do it. there is probaly a lot of bearing metal flakes circulating in the engine. These can, an do, end up packed in the crank oil drilling as they become trapped there due to the too small annular space not allowing them to get past that point. That my be what happened on the "bad" rebuild, new bearings, but debris from a previous failure was not cleaned out? .040 radial play is way bad. If you want to do it right, get a set of brushes from Brush Research (built specifically for this situation) and remove the oil gallery plugs and clean and flush and few times. Need a bare block, no cam.
|10-11-2019 10:55 PM|
With that amount of play, itís probably best to pull the engine. If you require any machine work, itís gotta be out anyway. Sheer curiosity will make you want to tear into it anyway, but you may be able to get it with new bearings and possibly a new crank. Maybe even new rings since youíre there.
My personal preference would be to salvage the block if possible rather than a new short block. Itís been through quite a few heat cycles, so itís seasoned well. Itís really a personal decision at this point though as to whether you want to fix the truck or just get another one.
FWIW when my head gaskets weíre done the engine came through the front. The tech at the shop said he preferred that method over lifting the cab. In a driveway I can understand doing it like that Iíd you didnít have a lift. Either way the end result was the same.
Im glad others were able to chime in with their expertise.
|10-11-2019 04:12 PM|
Engine needs to come out of the truck -- pulling the cab is by far the easiest, if you have a lift
Otherwise, patience and pull out from the front
Even if you could get the bed plate off, while in the frame -- the crank journals likely will need attention, and that can't be done from there
As I said earlier about hindsight, it's unfortunate -- but this is the path next in line
question you must ask is if the truck is worth fixing at this point
either with repairing your engine or with a different one
or heading off to the scrapper
Personally I would want to tear into it and see what is needed before making those decisions -- but for some money is easier than time
please post your findings -- everyone learns from the shared experience
|10-11-2019 03:36 PM|
Is it possible? Probably.
Is it worth it? Probably not.
|10-11-2019 02:52 PM|
We may be homing in on something here. With the 3rd front cover removed, I can get some more leverage on the end of the crank. I guess I can't share a video on here, but I got a good 0.040"+ of side play in my crank, just pulling on it with one hand, no pry bar. Guess that's the nail in the coffin right there.
I was hoping to pull the lower main bearing caps, but alas I was confronted with this integrated lower crankcase weirdness. Is there a remote possibility that I can drop the lower crankcase in frame? It looks like maybe 4 bolts through the bellhousing flange? And then just the bearing bolts...?
|10-10-2019 10:04 PM|
Originally Posted by Hydro View Post
Of course, it could be just bad luck on a thrust bearing, but a flex plate is fairly likely. Iíd even go as far back as inspecting the input shaft. Iím guessing because of this bed plate you mention, pulling the crank canít be done in cab?
Itís unfortunate parts on these things are so expensive. I know I could have put together a mean small block for what I paid to do the head gaskets.
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