|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-11-2019 07:24 AM|
I was poking around and noticed this thread. Lots of good advice for the uninitiated.
However, no one mentioned yet about the OE turbo oil feed tube. That and the silly aftermarket oil filter contraption would be my first order of business after purchasing.
I was also a bit concerned about the gauge showing 12 volts, not 13-14 volts.
Just some FYI for any future interested parties.
|06-30-2019 07:54 AM|
|Teazr||Find a GOOD diesel shop that knows 6.0 and it will be the best money you ever spent for them to inspect it, they can check over the truck and let you know what they see has been done and what needs done especially right now, they should check the engine and also the suspension/front end which can also be a bit expensive to repair, brakes, and any other systems that may have codes, If you fee like you may waste 200 or whatever they charge wait till you buy it and have 3 to 7K repair bill. They cant predict the future but they can tell you what they see right now and thats a much safer bet. And if they find some work it needs right now the dealer may work out something with you on the price. Patience may save your wallet. Just my .02 Cents|
|06-26-2019 03:35 PM|
if them car check fax things are free i would do them.. if not it wont show tom dick and harry who rebuilt the truck in backyard with jb weld, ducktape, zip ties, and a can of spray paint.. we fix, replace, and repair everything, including sheet metal all the time at my buddy shop and we dont report anything to anyone. just the customer who paying.. so how good are they when the repair guy is a do it yourself guy working out of there homes..
i got a live wire tuner i didnt tune it to this truck but use it for 9 different gauge i can have on it at once(I bought the truck a couple months ago)... i have turbo boost, battery volts, coolant temp, oil temp.. (them 2 should be close to same temp... old truck need a oil cooler it was at 280 degrees) ficm volts, trans temp, icp, speed, rpm.. them kind of things. once you start working on these trucks you will learn more what each thing is and why knowing the pressure or temp is a easy why of know if you have a problems with truck or if a part has been replaced already.
ficm=48volts or run like crap or no start
icp= injection control pressure.. has to be at 500psi or injector wont fire and truck will not start 500-5000psi floored lol
coolant temp & 210ish-220ish should kick fan on
oil temp= haul something and check both temps. if oil is 20-30 hotter or 70 like mine was then oil cooler is bad
turbo= 7-20 or higher(lol) psi, depending on what add on you have to blow black smoke in someone face at a corner
battery volts= alternator working or your walking soon
trans temp= can show if you cooler is getting plugged. may need a good blow job (sorry if i should of choice different words on that saying lol)
im still learning(2 years working on 6.0) and some number might be wrong but there close. but someone will always correct things like this.. a good snap on or any good auto scanner will show u this info also if you can borrow one..
|06-26-2019 02:58 PM|
Also, when i was looking to by my 07 i was told to pull a carfax and oasis report from the ford dealer. The oasis report may shed some light on the trucks past. Luckily mine was clean, and i bought it. 5 years and 80k miles later, i replaced ficm pwer side, added coolant filter, added 270amp alternator and 2 Odyssey batteries(way better than those optimas) hard pipe kit, 3" turbo back exhaust, turbo redone by mad turbo worx, just replaced carrier bearing and u joints, currently ordered rotors and pads modified stock stud safe tune by matt at gearheads. Paid 25k for the truck with 40k miles.... No regrets
Good luck and hope it works out for you👍🏼👍🏼
|06-25-2019 04:26 PM|
|repalmer||Spend the $200 and take it to a reputable shop and have them check it out. There's specific steps to the checks that need to be followed.|
|06-25-2019 06:36 AM|
|SacTekGuy||ok makes sense. After I got home and really looked at the temps, I realized it wasn't driven around enough to get to operating temps. EOT seems to never have reached it's operating temp while I was on the freeway. The last reading shows a higher temp on the frontage road at 40mph while I would have expected it higher on the freeway when I was doing 70. Now I know.|
|06-25-2019 06:26 AM|
Originally Posted by SacTekGuy View Post
|06-25-2019 06:14 AM|
Good morning all,
Here are some Torque readings during my latest test drive. I apologize if they're not in order. I time and date stamped the images so you know what order the readings were taken.
June 22nd 2019 - Outside temp 90F
Time / EOT / ECT
12:54pm / 86.6 / 91.4
Truck started and Idle
1:07pm / 172.6 / 185
Driving 35mph down a city street almost to freeway entrance.
1:10pm / 180.1 / 197.6
Entered freeway from the onramp while putting the gas pedal to the floor and reaching 70mph. Only on the freeway for about 2 minutes before exiting the freeway and entering the offramp.
1:12pm / 183.3 / 186.8
Entered the frontage road from the freeway offramp and driving about 40mph. Drove another 15 minutes back to the car lot and gauges continue to stay at these temps until parked and shut down.
I brought the coolant pressure device I made but chickened out on temporarily installing it. I had this overwhelming fear that I would do something to cause the truck to overheat or cause some other issue. If I ultimately decide I want the truck, I will give it one more test drive and perform that coolant pressure test.
Let me know your thoughts on these temps. They seem reasonable...but what do I know?
|06-22-2019 05:14 AM|
|SacTekGuy||Thank you, I'm on it!|
|06-21-2019 10:15 PM|
A 2-3" long piece of 3/8" hose, a 9-10 ft long piece of 3/8" hose, a 3/8" barbed tee, 3 spring hose clamps, a pressure gauge with a 1/4" NPT threaded fitting (male or female), and a 1/4" NPT threaded fitting (opposite gender from the end of the pressure gauge) to 3/8" barbed connection. The tee can be plastic or brass.
Make it such that you can install this setup in the hose that goes from the radiator to the degas bottle. Disconnect this small radiator hose at the degas bottle and then install the tee onto the end of the hose. Take the short piece of hose and connect one end of it to the other end of the tee and then connect the other end of it to the degas bottle nipple. Then connect the long hose to the 3rd barb of the tee with a 0-30 psig pressure gauge at the other end.
Run the long hose out from under the hood at the front of the hood, above the headlight, and through an open drivers side window and into the cab so you can watch it. It shouldn't pinch too much to be functional when you close the hood. I am sure w/ some thought you can come up w/ a better idea of how to get the gauge in the cab. It is just easy the way I describe, so it works if looking at a potential purchase.
- Spring clamps can be bought at any Auto Parts store and are easy/quick to take on and off.
- You could just use a second short piece of hose if you want to leave the pressure gauge under the hood.
Note, since it is a degas bottle with a vapor space, you can vent the pressure by removing the cap VERY slowly ... and still do it safely. That said, I still recommend wrapping a thick towel over the cap before removing it - just to make sure you don't get burned.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|