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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-05-2018 09:11 PM
Redlineauto
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDC View Post
@GETFURIOUS thanks!

If it’s not the main seal, like above, it could be the

rear galley plugs (1/2” Rachet square head to remove) and riffraff sells the o-ring or plugs plus o-ring

Rear cover. To reseal, this must come off with the rms <img src="https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Frown" class="inlineimg" />
Hpop line leaking (engine is tiled back and will run back to towards the rear)

Cracked cylinder wall (really, anywhere)

Those are the only things I can think behind there.

—————signature—————
~Don’t overthink something simple~
...:uptight people suck:...

Well that narrows it down a good bit. Since it leaked as I was adding oil and before I ever tried starting the truck, combined with the sheer volume (imagine if you turned a full quart of oil 90 degrees onto it's side) I think I can safely eliminate the hpop, cracked cylinder, and rear cover. First two since it leaks when stopped, and second by sheer volume. No way the rear cover leaked like that unless it had a gaping hole. Guess I'll hose it all down with brake clean and try to figure out where it's leaking from tomorrow.

This is a pain.
09-05-2018 08:57 PM
DieselDC @GETFURIOUS thanks!

If it’s not the main seal, like above, it could be the

rear galley plugs (1/2” Rachet square head to remove) and riffraff sells the o-ring or plugs plus o-ring

Rear cover. To reseal, this must come off with the rms
Hpop line leaking (engine is tiled back and will run back to towards the rear)

Cracked cylinder wall (really, anywhere)

Those are the only things I can think behind there.


—————signature—————
~Don’t overthink something simple~
...:uptight people suck:...
09-05-2018 08:52 PM
Redlineauto
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDC View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redlineauto View Post
@DieselDC , you clearly have a better understanding of these engines than I do, anything other than a RMS that could cause such a dramatic oil loss in such a short period of time, and only when running or adding oil to the crankcase with the engine off?


You give me too much credit lol. Okay what is rms?

Clue me into this oil lost situation so I can picture what’s going on to see if I can help.


—————signature—————
~Don’t overthink something simple~
...:uptight people suck:...

Yep, rear main seal. I noticed that it dripped a little bit when filling the crankcase for the first time, but it stopped pretty much immediately after pouring. Starting the truck up, it runs multiple steady streams of oil out of the flywheel inspection plate. Since it leaked when the truck wasn't running, the only thing I can think of is the rear main.
09-05-2018 08:46 PM
GETFURIOUS
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redlineauto View Post
IT'S ALIVE!

Sorta...

Got my electrical stuff sorted out. Turns out that if you ground the glow plug relay instead of going to the starter relay in a fit of ineptitude, bad things happen. Also got the RH battery cable properly grounded. That fixed that. Unfortunately, that means that the fuel pump was able to run, and allow one of the feed lines to do a pretty decent Old Faithful impression. Had to get new seals for that. $30 for some little bits of rubber is offensive, but it fixed that.

Tonight it was time to crank it. Took 30 seconds or so of cranking, spread out over two or three attempts, but it fired up and ran. Smoked like crazy from somewhere around the turbo, so I'm guessing that I didn't get the up pipe clamp on right. Didn't have any coolant in it so I shut it down pretty much immediately after it found idle.

And noticed a torrential oil flow from the flywheel inspection cover. Like, multiple streams. Stopped almost immediately after the truck was shut down. It didn't occur to me to check the rear main while the engine was out, but plenty of regrets now. Hoping it's something like a line that's not connected right, but given the remarkable quantity of oil that it lost in 5 seconds of running, I don't have high hopes.

And the drama continues.
MAYBE A PLUG AT THE REAR OF THE HEAD.....OR A LOOSE OIL LINE IF THERE IS ONE TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE MOTOR?....

Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDC View Post
You give me too much credit lol. Okay what is rms?

Clue me into this oil lost situation so I can picture what’s going on to see if I can help
REAR MAIN SEAL.....
09-05-2018 08:25 PM
DieselDC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redlineauto View Post
@DieselDC , you clearly have a better understanding of these engines than I do, anything other than a RMS that could cause such a dramatic oil loss in such a short period of time, and only when running or adding oil to the crankcase with the engine off?


You give me too much credit lol. Okay what is rms?

Clue me into this oil lost situation so I can picture what’s going on to see if I can help.


—————signature—————
~Don’t overthink something simple~
...:uptight people suck:...
09-05-2018 08:17 PM
Redlineauto @DieselDC , you clearly have a better understanding of these engines than I do, anything other than a RMS that could cause such a dramatic oil loss in such a short period of time, and only when running or adding oil to the crankcase with the engine off?
09-05-2018 08:11 PM
Redlineauto IT'S ALIVE!

Sorta...

Got my electrical stuff sorted out. Turns out that if you ground the glow plug relay instead of going to the starter relay in a fit of ineptitude, bad things happen. Also got the RH battery cable properly grounded. That fixed that. Unfortunately, that means that the fuel pump was able to run, and allow one of the feed lines to do a pretty decent Old Faithful impression. Had to get new seals for that. $30 for some little bits of rubber is offensive, but it fixed that.

Tonight it was time to crank it. Took 30 seconds or so of cranking, spread out over two or three attempts, but it fired up and ran. Smoked like crazy from somewhere around the turbo, so I'm guessing that I didn't get the up pipe clamp on right. Didn't have any coolant in it so I shut it down pretty much immediately after it found idle.

And noticed a torrential oil flow from the flywheel inspection cover. Like, multiple streams. Stopped almost immediately after the truck was shut down. It didn't occur to me to check the rear main while the engine was out, but plenty of regrets now. Hoping it's something like a line that's not connected right, but given the remarkable quantity of oil that it lost in 5 seconds of running, I don't have high hopes.

And the drama continues.
09-03-2018 06:09 PM
Redlineauto
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDC View Post
***Crossing fingers.
Crossing mine too! I have no idea where most of this wiring goes, so it was sort of a "well this looks likely and makes sense, so let's try it" kind of thing. Until I can figure out what fuse blew or harness melted, and then fix the cause (that's gonna be the real issue), it remains a paperweight. A very heavy, expensive, frustrating paperweight.
09-03-2018 04:50 PM
DieselDC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redlineauto View Post
Aight. Intercooler and piping, intake, radiator, batteries, and AC condenser went back into place today. Filled it up with oil. It immediately began dripping out of the flywheel inspection cover. Didn't even think about the rear main seal when doing this, so add that to the list of things you should definitely do when you have the engine out. Seemed to stop dripping almost immediately after I stopped pouring, so hopefully it's something I can ignore and get away with.



Went to start the truck. Turned the key. Power came on, fuel pump ran. For about three seconds, then everything died. No lights on dash, no interior lights or turn signals, nothing. Like the batteries are disconnected. Batteries in my multimeter were dead as well, so I couldn't test the batteries, but I'm fairly confident they're good. No fuses blown. Has to be something I either connected wrong or didn't connect at all. There's two smaller ground wires that branch off the main battery to block ground on the passenger's side. Didn't know where they went, so I left them disconnected thinking I'd see what didn't work, and that I really just wanted to see if this thing is going to run at all. Since that's an obvious point to start, even though I don't think that's it, could someone tell me where the leads on that passenger's side cable are supposed to go?



It's so close, and yet so far.


***Crossing fingers


—————signature—————
~Don’t overthink something simple~
...:uptight people suck:...
09-03-2018 04:49 PM
Redlineauto Aight. Intercooler and piping, intake, radiator, batteries, and AC condenser went back into place today. Filled it up with oil. It immediately began dripping out of the flywheel inspection cover. Didn't even think about the rear main seal when doing this, so add that to the list of things you should definitely do when you have the engine out. Seemed to stop dripping almost immediately after I stopped pouring, so hopefully it's something I can ignore and get away with.

Went to start the truck. Turned the key. Power came on, fuel pump ran. For about three seconds, then everything died. No lights on dash, no interior lights or turn signals, nothing. Like the batteries are disconnected. Batteries in my multimeter were dead as well, so I couldn't test the batteries, but I'm fairly confident they're good. No fuses blown. Has to be something I either connected wrong or didn't connect at all. There's two smaller ground wires that branch off the main battery to block ground on the passenger's side. Didn't know where they went, so I left them disconnected thinking I'd see what didn't work, and that I really just wanted to see if this thing is going to run at all. Since that's an obvious point to start, even though I don't think that's it, could someone tell me where the leads on that passenger's side cable are supposed to go?

It's so close, and yet so far.
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