|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-10-2019 12:31 PM|
Any news on this?
|01-09-2019 01:56 PM|
Well, my turn for the subject issue...
Light first noticed about a week ago during a 20 mile trip. Arrived destination, completed a few tasks, restarted the truck about 45 mins later, no light on the return trip. Figured it was just a hiccup in the system. Then day before yesterday, the light came back on as I was finishing a drive back home for the day. Started the truck the next day... no light when the engine started, but as soon as I put it in gear, the light returned.
Called the local shop, who agreed to try to fit me in during the late afternoon yesterday. Drove over, and the tech went to work. After about 2 hours, came in shaking his head. Said both batteries tested good, as did both alternators. Good voltage out of the alts, and good voltage into the batts. Tested the big fuse block on the firewall, stated that was good as well. Reported seeing a different code than in post #4 above. My code was P-0620, which is “Alternator control circuit – malfunction”. He determined issue had to be something between the PCM & connectors... possibly a chafed wire, possibly a bad connector, or even PCM going bad. Unfortunately, closing time was approaching... and to determine what would require me bringing the truck back in a leaving it next week when they could schedule me on the calendar, as this would take a couple of hours of labor to handle the issue. He also provided me a schematic showing where he theorizes the problem may be... which I've included in the attached file.
So, since the truck starts up fine each time, and otherwise seems to run ok (except I have noticed it seems to be idling higher than normal)... I figure I;'m good to go until they can get me back in the shop next Wednesday, and we'll see how it goes. I've bookmarked this thread and will show it to them when I return... maybe it'll help speed things along.
Will come back to update then...
|09-27-2018 12:45 PM|
I had the same issue about a month ago. Battery light came on, I monitored with voltage with SCT tuner. Took it to my buddies shop he load tested and checked the alternator, no problems. Next day drove about 15 miles and all my gauges and radio unit went crazy, voltage dropped down to 11. My buddy replaced the alternator. I drove it about 50 miles and the battery light came back on and headlights flickered and voltage dropped to 12. Took it back to my buddies shop, and they took it to an electrical shop and they replaced the above mentioned faulty wire. Light gone! Driving a few days later lights still flickered when voltage dropped below 14. Replaced alternator again and all is well. Now I am having an issue with my radio/infotainment system turning itself off and clock not working. ???????
Paid about $400 to have wire replaced.
|08-31-2018 07:15 PM|
|Kyler44||Yes I have the same problem, it’s either the yellow wire or the red wire that goes from the alternator to the computer... anyone know what wire it is?|
|06-12-2018 07:01 AM|
|Dibbles6.7||I am having the same issue on my 2011 f250. put new battery's and an alternator on mine and the light is still on. I have read that it's the wire that runs from the alternator down under the motor I believe and to the pcm or ecm. I guess they have a spot that corrodes? Has anyone else heard of this? I am not real crazy about trying to chase this down with as many wires as there are on these things.|
|07-12-2017 09:50 AM|
|msk182||I had my battery light come on and I went through the whole gambit of checks. Finally ended up taking it to the dealer where they had it for a few days to chase down a bad wire - the one that controls the indicator light on the dash. Everything was working perfectly, just that wire was bad.|
|06-28-2017 03:08 PM|
|JRTJH||Just wondering if there's any followup on this battery light? Over the weekend I also had the battery light come on about 15 seconds after startup. Battery voltage was 12.62V, dropped to 12.52 volts after about 5 minutes of idling. I took it to Ford (still in warranty) and they said it was a "bad connection under the motor". I couldn't discuss it with the mechanic (service writer seemed to only relay what was on the paperwork, so I don't know "the rest of the story".... I did let them know that I've had to clean corrosion from the passenger side battery negative terminal 4 or 5 times since the truck was new, so they also replaced that one battery. I asked about replacing batteries that are "in a pair" as a pair. Ford won't approve that per the service writer, so I've got one new battery and one 2 year old battery. Hopefully I won't start the "battery flip flop" failures.... Anyway, just wondering if SouthWestPiling ever solved his problem......|
|02-25-2017 12:42 PM|
|SouthWestPiling||Thanks kaya I did triple check all the connections and no luck but I seemed to clear the P068a code for now, still have the battery light on the dash come on after start up though. On a few other posts most people say new batteries solved similar issues even if the batteries tested ok.. so I'm leaning toward new batteries although I didn't think that would clear the battery light on the dash.|
|02-25-2017 10:19 AM|
Everytime I've had a p068a, it was caused by at least one bad battery. Have seen this code several times.
Check all connections. Particularly at the passenger side battery and junction box next to battery.
You will need to monitor the vbatt PID using a scan tool to start
|02-25-2017 10:10 AM|
Well to follow up, I had the batteries load tested and they came back fine with over 800 CCA but just slightly undercharged, so gave them a quick charge and threw them back in the truck. Truck starts no problem but the battery light did come back on. So my code reader just pulled a P068A - Powertrain and I found online the P068A is "Power Relay de-energized too early"
Any ideas what this might be? Could it just be a bad connection at the pcm/ecm or is it leaning toward a new pcm? I'm a little confused at this point and leaning towards taking it to the dealer...
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