Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum - Reply to Topic
Suspension & Steering Discuss OEM & aftermarket suspension, lifts, air ride suspension, shocks, steering components, etc.

Thread: Track Bar Ball Joint Keeps Failing After Lift Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-14-2017 07:34 PM
ZMANN funny He acts like he invented that ?
it's been around for a long time

02-14-2017 07:08 PM
colonel angus 410 ft. lbs comes easy with a Tq. multiplier. Takes all the stress off the ratchet and you can do it without a cheater bar.
best money I ever spent.

Torque Multiplier 5X , 1/2" in and out, w/o torque Wrench - Ratchet Helper | eBay

Denny
11-23-2016 02:42 PM
DIGMAR worst part was I only need the one socket and a breaker bar... too bad all shops around me only carry full sets and not just individual sockets
11-23-2016 01:31 PM
mhatlen
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIGMAR View Post
LOL!! I know what you mean there. I snapped a 1/2" ratchet (cheap Stanley POS) and a 1/2" breaker bar the other day adjusting mine... justified me buying a good 3/4" drive set.
That's the answer right there. I have a Proto 3/4" socket set and it's priceless when you are dealing with big stuff. If you got mula go with Mac or Snap On ............
That trackbar bolt takes a rediculas amount of torque.
11-18-2016 05:02 PM
DIGMAR
Quote:
Originally Posted by charbaugh View Post

Oh yea - observation #3 (I know, I said 2...), using a 1/2" drive Snap On ratchet and 6 foot cheater bar to tighten the track bar bolt = broken ratchet. Should have waited on my buddy returning my big breaker and tourque wrench....

Thanks again, everyone, for the input!
LOL!! I know what you mean there. I snapped a 1/2" ratchet (cheap Stanley POS) and a 1/2" breaker bar the other day adjusting mine... justified me buying a good 3/4" drive set.
11-01-2016 05:09 PM
ZMANN
Quote:
Originally Posted by OCVeloMan View Post
#3: Good thing Snap-Off has a lifetime warranty!

fixed it for you

Clark glad you have this behind you ! i don't think it will be an issue again

i will keep my eye on the classifieds for the Pure bar
11-01-2016 04:17 PM
OCVeloMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by charbaugh View Post
I replaced the Pure Performance with the Carli track bar and made two observtions. #1, as was mentioned earlier by @ZMANN and @mhatlen , there was a little slop in the heim joint with the factory bolt. Using the sleeves that came with the Carli, no slop. Since replacing the track bar, I've hear no more pops, clunks, or whatever, although I only have a couple hundred miles on it. So, it seems this time around the clunk was from the top end, and not the ball joint like the previous cases (guessing the first was just coincidence of timing and the 2nd was just a lemon). Observation #2, the ball joint now rests closer to verticle side-to-side with the Carli bar, however the track bar tends to rest rotated toward the back of the vehicle. I seem to recall a post in one of the many Carli related threads somewhere that addressed this, and if I recall correctly is nothing to be concerned with. So, I'm going to drive it and see if anything else 'pops' up...

Oh yea - observation #3 (I know, I said 2...), using a 1/2" drive Snap On ratchet and 6 foot cheater bar to tighten the track bar bolt = broken ratchet. Should have waited on my buddy returning my big breaker and tourque wrench....

Thanks again, everyone, for the input!
#1 & #2: Awesome! Glad it's handled. Yes, the Heim on the top and ball joint on the bottom means the bar can misalign without deflecting. Grab int and rotate it front and back to see what I am talking about, no biggie. It will move as the axle shifts forward and back but is not a problem.

#3: Goot thing Snap-On has a lifetime warranty!
11-01-2016 02:56 PM
charbaugh I replaced the Pure Performance with the Carli track bar and made two observtions. #1, as was mentioned earlier by @ZMANN and @mhatlen , there was a little slop in the heim joint with the factory bolt. Using the sleeves that came with the Carli, no slop. Since replacing the track bar, I've hear no more pops, clunks, or whatever, although I only have a couple hundred miles on it. So, it seems this time around the clunk was from the top end, and not the ball joint like the previous cases (guessing the first was just coincidence of timing and the 2nd was just a lemon). Observation #2, the ball joint now rests closer to verticle side-to-side with the Carli bar, however the track bar tends to rest rotated toward the back of the vehicle. I seem to recall a post in one of the many Carli related threads somewhere that addressed this, and if I recall correctly is nothing to be concerned with. So, I'm going to drive it and see if anything else 'pops' up...

Oh yea - observation #3 (I know, I said 2...), using a 1/2" drive Snap On ratchet and 6 foot cheater bar to tighten the track bar bolt = broken ratchet. Should have waited on my buddy returning my big breaker and tourque wrench....

Thanks again, everyone, for the input!
10-26-2016 10:20 AM
OCVeloMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhatlen View Post
Going back to your statement that a trackbars geometry can be changed without lowering it is not true. A trackbar does nothing for the geometry in relation to the steering drag link. It makes no difference what bends or kinks are in that bar. It's a point to point equation. Only thing the aftermarket trackbar can do is put the oem ball joint back to its neutral position and of coarse get shorter or longer as needed.
That was my point was correcting the track bar ball joint angle, not the track bar geometry. I left out "ball joint" on my last statement. I will edit my post for clarification. I'm well aware that bends do not matter

As for correction of geometry, correct geometry for the track bar is whatever matches your drag link configuration.
10-26-2016 10:11 AM
mhatlen Going back to your statement that a trackbars geometry can be changed without lowering it is not true. A trackbar does nothing for the geometry in relation to the steering drag link. It makes no difference what bends or kinks are in that bar. It's a point to point equation. Only thing the aftermarket trackbar can do is put the oem ball joint back to its neutral position and of coarse get shorter or longer as needed.

As for who makes the toughest trackbar at the present time it's Pure Performance. Even the Heim joint is twice the size. Is it over built....... yea I'm sure of it. But it is what it is. Both will do everything asked of them and I doubt either would fail.
I saw my Pure Performance trackbar after hitting a concrete pillar at 70 mph and it was one of the straightest things left under that truck. It did Not break on either end and both axle tubes were pulled out of the pumpkin. It's crazy stout !!!

Anyways I'm done here. As far as whatever he is hearing pop I would not rule out the top bolt. 10,000 miles is nothing for the ball joint unless it's a Chinese knockoff.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome