|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-15-2019 11:34 AM|
Originally Posted by Tony9973 View Post
So again, I'd keep the wheel if you want but I wouldn't worry about replacing it right away as you probably won't notice any difference. The turbo can be pulled in 30 minutes if you want to tackle it later on during a rebuild (also very easy with directions online). And a stock cast wheel is like $40 if you don't want the hassle of taking apart your old turbo now.
|12-15-2019 08:04 AM|
|Tony9973||Awesome, this is all very helpful info. I think I'm starting to form a game plan. I really appreciate everyone's advise. I'll I'm gonna start getting at it after the holidays hopefully everything goes smoothly lol|
|12-14-2019 02:25 PM|
|[email protected]||The E99 truck bearing hubs are not near as expensive as they used to be. I just replaced one a couple weeks ago with a genuine SKF unit and it was $191. 05-07 bearings are WAY more money.|
|12-14-2019 10:46 AM|
No reason to swap the hubs and rotors, just save them, and know the difference so they are kept matched up... change them when you need to...
The early turbo wheel is what the Wicked Wheel is based on, and using the early wheel in the late turbo 'should' interchange with no issues.
|12-13-2019 10:28 PM|
|Tony9973||I have a quick question. If the turbo in my e99 is good or the better factory wheel it's good, can it be swapped into the 2000 turbo? I just noticed when looking at wicked wheels that they list year's from like 97-2003 or 04 or something. So would the e99 wheel not fit?|
|12-13-2019 10:22 PM|
|Tony9973||Sorry, didn't see the post about the brake parts being cheaper for the 2000. I will definitely be using that stuff then.|
|12-13-2019 07:31 AM|
|Tony9973||Wow, that's not much difference on the front hubs and rotors. I thought it was a lot more drastic than that. It's good to see the comparison like that. With them being so similar its probably a waste of time to change that stuff over at this point?|
|12-13-2019 07:21 AM|
The donor truck has 168k on it. The motor seems to run good, I wasn't able to drive it though. The truck was rolled and there was glass EVERYWHERE...
When I first got the truck I towed it home, charged up the batteries, added oil since most of it had ended up all over the engine compartment. Then I spun the motor over a few times by hand very slowly to make sure it wasn't hydro locked or something. Then I went to crank it over a bit to get the oil moving in the motor ( I figured it would crank quite a bit before actually firing due to the roll over and having sat for a year )
I was wrong, it lit almost immediately. It was a little noisy at first but cleared up really fast and idled very smooth every time I fired it up after that. I did make the mistake of revving it a bit the first time and it started to run away on me but I had the air box tube open and just blocked it off before it got crazy lol. Apparently the intercooler pipes and stuff had a lot of oil in them from the roll over.
I'll definitely check out those up pipes on Amazon, and I tried reading a bunch on the injector cups but wasn't able to find much on the stainless ones. I really only wanted to change the cups out just because the motor is kinda nearing that 200k mark. The injectors in the E99 motor are upgraded, they are the same model injectors that the 2000 comes with stock except they are brand new. They have maybe 30 or 40 miles on them. That was why I was gonna swap them into the newer motor, I just figured why not do the cups at the same time.
I think general consensus is to keep as much usable from the donor truck as possible, which I think is a good idea. I think I'm starting to agree more with just getting it put in though and worry about things as they come up. Especially since my truck has been down for like 6 months now and I really miss driving it.
Again, thank you all for the opinions and suggestions. Its exactly what I needed. It gives me a lot more confidence going forward with this whole motor swap thing. I can't tell you all how many times I got frustrated and couldn't decided what to do. I thought about just selling my truck for parts and just being done with it. I had only had the truck for a month or 2 when #7 piston went.
|12-12-2019 07:18 PM|
For comparison, here is pictures of the front wheel bearings and rotors side by side. Dually and single wheel use the same bearings and rotors, with the exception of the lug studs being shorter on a dually hub to allow clearance for the nuts when installing the hub adapter. The shorter studs will work on a single wheel, the stud is flush with the end of the lug nut, not sticking out by several threads like normal.
You will find the early wheel bearing will cost about the same as a later bearing and rotor combined at your local chain auto parts store.
|12-12-2019 04:35 PM|
Convert to the newer front wheel bearings and rotors... MUCH cheaper to replace, and DONT MIX early/late bearings with late/early rotors, the rotor will hit the caliper bracket.
Agree on the 'replace the oil pan while its out' and let most everything else go... except maybe the up-pipes... Dorman set is cheap enough and good stuff.
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