|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-25-2019 12:23 PM|
If you want to avoid having the vehicle without power for any amount of time swap one battery at a time.
You do have to be a little more careful but at least you won't have to reprogram your stereo or possibly force the vehicle to re-learn your driving habits, etc. which can take a couple of drive cycles. Also, if possible, make sure the old batteries aren't completely flat when you swap them out. (to avoid the new battery dumping into the old battery for the few seconds that both an old and new one are in the vehicle at the same time)
When I was a youngster and did auto electrical for a living I used to wrap my battery wrenches in electrical tape for a little extra safety.
My original Motorcraft factory batteries lasted from 2010 until around June of 2018 when I noticed it start to crank a bit slower than normal. I replaced them with a couple of Northstar AGM's.
I did take pretty good care of the batteries though. I was never forced to jump start the vehicle and if it sat for any amount of time I would but the truck on a charger before starting the vehicle so that the alternator wasn't ramming a couple hundred amps into the batteries to get them up to voltage.
|08-21-2019 03:38 PM|
When I bought my 2011 F250 in 2013, dealer installed two new motorcraft batteries. About a year later I was noticing same thing as OP. Drivers side was worse than passenger side.
Found two problems, they had over tightened the nuts holding down the bracket that goes on top of battery, to the point that both batts were slightly caved in in the middle which lightly cracked and leaked, also heavily corroding the hold down bracket.
Not sure how but around the positive post it was also cracking allowing the acid to seep up and corrode the clamp to the point I had to cut it off, strip the cable back another inch, use baking soda to clean it then attach it to a new clamp.
Batts were only one year old, took it to dealer, showed them the issue, showed them the date coded stickers attached to both batts and they would not exchange without a receipt. Explained that I did not buy them, other ford dealer installed, yadda yadda and they still refused. I then asked about getting a new harness installed due to other dealers negligence and they refused. Still had CPO and ford ESP warranties on truck.
Now have AGM batts.
Coolant level, 2 years ago truck had radiator leak that everybody else seem to have, drivers side dripping down front .
Dealer installed new rad and did a 'super flush' under warranty. Over the next two months I had to add approx 1 gallon of gold coolant, I suspect for same reason mentioned above, they just topped it off and never bothered to get the air out/proper level of coolant in.
|08-17-2019 07:50 AM|
Originally Posted by tomshep View Post
|08-16-2019 08:00 PM|
From experience, don't leave the battery clamp corroded. They are very thin and cheap compared to the old clamps used on post batteries. The clamp can and will corrode through and then you will be stuck with figuring out how to replace. Not fun and the OEM harness is in the hundred$$$. I just did the batteries on my 14 at 51,000 miles. They were starting to crank slowly. Went to O'Riley's and bought Motorcraft and it starts much better. Did felt washers and also bought the spray cleaner and spray protector. I've been using this for a few years on vehicles and very pleased with the results.
|08-16-2019 06:54 AM|
Originally Posted by HeavyAssault View Post
|08-15-2019 12:10 PM|
|HeavyAssault||Had the battery issue on my 2015. Cleaned the terminals, applied protective pad, gel, etc etc etc....Same issue came back at some other point. It was being said the battery cases were cracking at the post causing excessive off-gassing of the fluid solution when charging. I decided AGMs were a better option. Zero issues with corrosion to this day.|
|08-15-2019 12:04 PM|
Both of my positive battery terminals were corroded badly when I bought my 2016 F350 Lariat a few weeks ago; to the point the metal battery strap on one was also getting corroded
So my batteries were unhooked for about 1.5hrs by the time I got everything cleaned up and reconnected. Everything on my truck worked just fine afterwards.
The corrosion can also get into the cable itself so be sure to check it as well. The baking soda paste will clean it up tho. Mix it up in a 'red solo cup' it doesn't take much water to make the paste. Make it thin enough it will pour out of the cup but thick enough to stay in place on the terminal. It will thicken in the cup after a while so just add a little more water.
|08-15-2019 11:52 AM|
Originally Posted by 18M_RWR View Post
|08-15-2019 11:14 AM|
Originally Posted by kwazikwazi View Post
|08-15-2019 11:00 AM|
Originally Posted by 18M_RWR View Post
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