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Thread: My lifted truck is suddenly got camber in wheels after ruff use Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-09-2020 01:25 AM
Bramstroker i figure i would post a update. these trucks seem to eat up shackle bushings! and front end stuff in general. i replace them and the truck was good then noticed the shackle bushings were bad again, the ones on the leaf eyes arent as bad but not great.
certainly glad i didnt sell the other truck to invest in this one. idm went out recently leaving me stuck in the woods with a load of firewood. ive had to replace alot on this truck in less than 2 years.
radiator, coolant degas tank, t stat, oil cooler housing, brake lines, clutch slave, steering joint broke, steering wheel bearing bad again, alternator 2 times, glow plug relay, drivers seat, vacuum pump, plug on ac compressor, rattles bolts loose all the time and the bed came loose also, had to weld were brackets busted off. ive had it long enough to only do 2 oil changes! so its at 249k now. rebuilt zf5 seems ok. turbo has signs of oil leak.
it breaks so often im afraid to drive it now. i did get 4 spare injectors for it last week, it is running slightly odd so maybe one is going bad. so i guess itll sit mostly, probably pull the insurance off it here shortly and not renew tabs in april or sell it. i would rather deal with a idi 7.3 as its parts are way cheaper and more reliable minus the damn pump.
not complaining just burned out on this one. i do like it but i just dont need it if it breaks on me for 2 years straight. lol
08-24-2018 07:04 PM
Bramstroker
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Dieselman View Post
The leafs don't need to be dead even with the pivot point. Installing the pivot bushings will move the pivot point slightly higher. Worn pivot bushings make the pivot point push closer to the ground because of the cantilevered weight on the axle. If the ball joints don't have enough adjustment I would most likely move the pivot point higher in the pivot brackets and drill new holes. Is there a 6" long 1/2" thick leaf at the bottom of your leaf pack sitting on the axle housing. That is how it comes stock. Blocks unless custom made are not bolted into the spring pack with the center pin and captured well with the u-bolts so there is a risk of them coming out if u-bolts come loose
I got one of the bushings installed in this.
is really strange but it still looks cambered out to me but an angle gauge shows both my wheels to be pretty much dead on 90 degree angle
Truck rides better too
08-24-2018 11:47 AM
1Dieselman I still stand by sell your GMC, use some of the money to buy the axle and stuff needed to change the front axle to f350 suspension and the springs or f350 blocks needed for the rear. I guarantee you will be much happier with your truck in how you can use it and how much better it will ride.
08-24-2018 05:25 AM
1Dieselman The leafs don't need to be dead even with the pivot point. Installing the pivot bushings will move the pivot point slightly higher. Worn pivot bushings make the pivot point push closer to the ground because of the cantilevered weight on the axle. If the ball joints don't have enough adjustment I would most likely move the pivot point higher in the pivot brackets and drill new holes. Is there a 6" long 1/2" thick leaf at the bottom of your leaf pack sitting on the axle housing. That is how it comes stock. Blocks unless custom made are not bolted into the spring pack with the center pin and captured well with the u-bolts so there is a risk of them coming out if u-bolts come loose
08-24-2018 12:42 AM
Bramstroker
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Dieselman View Post
You are going to be playing a dangerous game extending shackles giving how small the end is that goes up in the frame. You will need to extend 2" to get 1" of lift. Also when you do this you are going to change the caster. You might be able to correct it with STEEL shims but I would be extremely cautious doing it on the front end of a heavy truck with a TTb axle. I have lifted and modified a lot of suspensions and it is NOT something I would do.
Ok shackles are out then.
The leafs aren't even with the ttb pivot point. The adjustable ball joints are maxed out also. The leafs don't provide enough lift . How can I safely correct this? What would you do? So lift blocks can't handle the twisting of the ttb? There's a fair amount of neg camber here. I'm not sure but I would geuss I need 1 inch lift to even out.
08-23-2018 01:33 PM
1Dieselman You are going to be playing a dangerous game extending shackles giving how small the end is that goes up in the frame. You will need to extend 2" to get 1" of lift. Also when you do this you are going to change the caster. You might be able to correct it with STEEL shims but I would be extremely cautious doing it on the front end of a heavy truck with a TTb axle. I have lifted and modified a lot of suspensions and it is NOT something I would do.
08-23-2018 01:11 PM
Bramstroker I was able to press out the ttb pivot bushing on the passenger side pretty easily but I did have to remove the entire axle to do it because I couldn't clear the 4 inch lift drop brackets so I've got my new bushings pressed in there and I've come up with a solution I am going to take the spare set of shackles that I have and I'm going to extend them out with some metal I have and weld them up and I will do a drop Shackle in the front until my Camber goes away. I need another inch lift to achieve this I think
I'm a decent welder and I've got a 240-volt lincoln MIG welder so it should come out pretty good. I love for an excuse to weld up something custom
08-22-2018 09:54 PM
Bramstroker This sucks I do all this crap to get the damn ttb bushing to come out of the drop bracket and when I get to it it doesn't even look all that bad certainly not like I expected it to be and not enough to throw the camber off I don't think so I'm almost thinking about drilling new holes in the drop bracket and moving the Pivot Point up a little bit higher my other choice is I could add a spacer underneath the leaf pack to compensate also there is no more adjustment on the adjustable ball joints
08-22-2018 06:42 PM
Bramstroker After jacking it up I can tell it's definitely bad but I can't get it to come out because of the stupid relocation brackets are welded on there
08-22-2018 06:16 PM
Bramstroker These things don't look bad I don't know how do you tell if they're bad or not is there a easy way
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