|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-07-2018 05:53 PM|
I put a Curt class V hitch on mine, it is rated for 17,000 lbs.
|05-07-2018 03:29 PM|
Originally Posted by MightyMouse75 View Post
|05-07-2018 02:57 PM|
Maybe you need a,WDH? I thought that the ratings were for with WDH and wothout WDH.
If you need a WDH I have the best there for sale.
|04-16-2018 02:19 PM|
I see. The trailer would weigh under 15k (13-14k more likely) and I would upgrade my hitch before hand and I have a 15k rated ball mount/ball too. I would be hitting around 20-21k gross combined (including everything, me full tank, extra towing supplies etc) for approx. 30 miles then parking it in a large concrete/gravel floor shop. the hitch is only about $189 shipped for the class 5.
worst case I can barrow an f450 or dodge 4500 but they are a little far away to be super practical for a one time move. I won't know anything for a couple of months though so I was doing some preliminary reading and searching.
thank you for your input.
|04-16-2018 01:44 PM|
You are right.
the Airbags do help with sway and stabilization as well.
But the problem is still there. That hitch is only rated for 10k, not the 12k. It may pull it just fine. But, if you were to get into an accident that WAS your fault, the insurance could decide NOT to pay out, because their investigation concluded that you were pulling a trailer that exceeded the weight rating of that hitch.
I think just upgrading your hitch will be enough to pull that 12k trailer. If you didn't have the overload springs, then no, but you do, so great! Even that, at only 2k over that 10k rating, you'd still probably be okay without the overload springs, as long as you pay attention to the 10-15% tongue weight recommendation and not go over that. That tongue weight will hurt ya.
I actually pulled my nephews truck (full size cummins dodge ram), and with his truck and trailer, i think total weight about 13-14k? I will never do that again on my factor 10k hitch. Scared the crap outta me going down the road. I was stressing out, and steering just plain sucked. I had to keep it under 40mph on the freeway, mostly do to him loading it wrong (too much tongue weight).
I just wouldn't go pulling a 20k trailer, without at least a weight distribution hitch and/or upgrading rear axle.
|04-16-2018 01:36 PM|
Originally Posted by -Falcon- View Post
1. I already checked with local and state regs regarding class a requirements for the vehicle and trailer unit and then checked the feds on fmsca. as I stated I am good with my set up...
2. I have the overload springs in the rear....
3. air bags help more then just level your truck... Im not even going to get into this.
I am simply asking would upgrading the hitch alone be enough from someone who has actually upgraded their hitch and towed or if they feel the airbags/timbrens would help enough with stabilization and sway during turns to justify the extra cost.
|04-16-2018 12:29 PM|
Again, Air bags are not going to allow you to carry any more weight. All they do is level the truck so your headlights do not shine to the sky.
Helper springs would help, if you don't already have them.
If you are exceeding the weight of the hitch....I would recommend upgrading it, even if you are towing that short distance. If you are doing it on your own property from one place to another, that is another story, but on a public road, you are risking not only your life, but others if failure happens.
A weight distribution hitch may be an option for you as well.
Also, check with your local DMV, even if the trailer is over 26k (in your case NOT), you still might be exempt from having a Class A CDL if what you are towing is classified as a camper or motor home. This varies state to state. This is why some people can drive a Motorhome that has more then a GVW rating of more than 26,000 lbs (like those multi-million dollar motor homes)
|04-16-2018 11:23 AM|
my trucks sticker is rated for more then the hitch that came with the truck. I honestly assume I will be over by a little but I am not towing this thing around town or more then about 30 miles. I t would be picked up from the lot and parked on a gravel spot with hook ups while we build the house. I won't need a Class A either. I looked at local/state regs and compared to FMSCA I won't need a class A because i'll be under 21k ( even if the trailer weight 2-3k more i'll be under 26k).
my truck, tires, and rear axel seem to meet the needs but the hitch is only rated at 10k. According to my sticker/owners manual I should be good at 12k lb I figured the trailer would probably weight a little more if not less (going to see it this weekend).
I was just curious if the hitch and either timbrens or air bags would be a wise investment considering im looking at a truck bed camper after the house and I won't be buying a newer truck. current ride only has 147k and I've changed fluids, filters, and zero leaks.
|04-16-2018 10:30 AM|
They have stronger hitches you can put on, but a couple things you need to consider...
1. Is your truck rated to pull 15k? The sticker on your door should say GCVW (Gross Combined Vehicle Weight) meaning the weight of your truck and everything in it, including the weight of fuel, other fluids, You, passengers, and anything else that is in it, including bed. And then add that weight to the weight of the trailer and its contents. Does that equal or below the GCVW number printed on the sticker? If it's not, you could be looking at a big ticket if pulled over and/or some damage to your truck, including blown tires or axle damage.
2. Are your tires rated for that weight?
3. Is your rear axles rated for that weight?
There's a reason why Dually trucks can carry and pull so much weight. The combined rating of the dual tires, as well as a stronger axle, are made to do so.
So, anser to your question is, yes, you can put on a larger hitch and yes your truck will pull it. Is it safe? Probably not, but you can do it. You just risk an overweight ticket and possible damage to the rear axle and/or blown tires.
All airbags do is help level the truck, so your headlights aren't pointing to the sky. They do absolutely nothing for allowing you to carry more weight. The weight in the bed and tongue weight still put stress on the tires and the rear axle. In addition, if you have too much weight, are you going to be able to steer the thing safely, as it will lift the front end up.
|04-16-2018 08:42 AM|
upgrading current class III hitch
My current truck 1999.5 f250 4x4 super cab short bed auto.
equipment: camper package: front/rear sway bars, 1 in taller rear block, over load rear leaf
mods: 285/75r16 E rated bfgoodrich A/Ts, front level kit, ww2, john woods shift kit, ais intake, hydra (for sale pm me), in bed 5th wheel rails with wire plug on driver side rear bed walls.
My truck came with the factory class 3 hitch I believe the sticker said 500lb tongue and 10k max weight. I may be wanting to move a 24ft 12-15k trailer just a short move twice max, bumper bull unfortunately could I add a class 4 or 5 hitch, and then air bags or timbrens to move something approx. 15k (thinking max weight) for a 10-30 minute drive once? or should I just barrow a f450 or dodge 4500 from my dads work for the move? I was only thinking about adding the gear to my truck for a truck bed camper in the future but Its a tiny home trailer so very tall but seems to have a nice center of gravity etc.
wife and I considering living in a 24ft tiny home on property while we build a home vs getting a 5th wheel that arguably lighter, but has less living room/ feek for the duration of building etc. Not worried about permits or code the tiny home is titled/plated as a recreational vehicle with both normal and rv hooks ups for power and water etc.