2015 F350 Super Duty JL Audio Aftermarket Stereo Installation - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
General 6.7 Discussion (2011-2016) General 6.7 Discussion

 37Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 223 Old 05-05-2015, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 
BIGDZL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 135
Thanks: 4
Thanked 25 Times in 11 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
2015 F350 Super Duty JL Audio Aftermarket Stereo Installation

Just completed an entertainment system upgrade. Here is an illustrated breakdown of the installation...

Looked around for rear seat removal explainers, but couldn't find much, so ended up just figuring it out myself...wasn't too tough, but thought it might be helpful for others to post a step-by-step with an image...

How to remove the rear seat in a 2015 Ford F350 SuperCrew:
1) Remove the underseat storage bins with a 1/2-inch socket...there are 6 bolts in the bins themselves (2 are hidden under the loose separator). Be sure to unplug the 12v accessory harness.
2) Lift the seat cushions and remove the 3 forward bolts with a 3/4-inch socket.
3) With the seat cushions partially lifted, locate the rear mounting nuts...you can see these looking from the front. Use a 3/4-inch wrench to remove these...two on the passenger's side, one driver's side.
4) Fold the driver's side seat-back forward and remove the two seat belt Torx bolts with a T50 star to release the middle seat belt assembly.
5) The seat now comes apart in two pieces. Remove the single passenger side portion first by lifting slightly and pulling out towards the door, wiggling the seat off the joining bracket.
6) Lift the remaining double-seat driver's side out of the truck, preferably with the assistance of a second person to "walk it out."

Here's an image showing seat-mount bolts and seat belt Torx locations to be removed:


Removed rear seat, factory sub, mounted jack/tools, rear-wall padding and lifted carpet. Ready for Dynamat and install:



Dynamat installed. For those who aren't familiar...Dynamat is a sound deadening thermal barrier. This product is used extensively in the car audio industry to eliminate road/engine/exhaust noise, drone and rattling. It also acts as an engine/exhaust thermal barrier. Gives that "luxury car" quiet interior.



Plenty of room in the side-rail channels to run cables.



JL recommends 4-gauge wiring. Important to use quality connections with this type of equipment. Decided on Stinger Pro and took a set of well-insulated THX-rated RCA's from my home theater.



Ran power with a 50-amp mini-ANL fuse from the driver's side battery:



Remote/turn-on lead is made easy in the Super Duty...there is a large bunch of capped-off wiring on the driver's side just behind the emergency brake pedal. These are made to run accessories...found the WH/BU labeled RUN/ACC for the processor and amp lead...you see it here pulled out of the bunch:



No visual change to the factory mount separates speaker locations, except for swapping out of the Sony logo for JL Audio Replaced the OEM 6x8 Sony speakers and tweeters with a set of JL Audio C2-650, in both factory front and rear locations, connected with OEM compatible harnesses to the factory amp...which has plenty of power to run these. JL's are efficient and produce great sound quality without the need for another amp. Unless you are comfortable with custom work, I would recommend going with OEM-sized 5x7 or 6x8 though...the JL's are listed as 6.5" but are actually 6.75" and require some mods to install even with Scosche adapters.



Ran the JL Audio RBC-1 control knob for active sub-amp control from the driver's seat. Mounted in that little random open dash compartment to the right of the steering column...this allows adjustment on the fly based on music choice, or you can turn the sub off completely, leaving the rest of the entertainment system intact.



If you don't change out and/or bypass the factory navigation head unit, then you must keep the factory Sony amp. Everything seems to run through this unit for the OEM stereo system...there are literally ~40 wires running in/out of this unit...never seen anything like it on an amp. And none of the speakers work if you disconnect it. For signal to the new sub, used 2 of the 4 factory sub speaker wires (factory sub is a dual voice coil configuration) going into the Audio Control line-out converter. No factory wiring harnesses were modified or cut for any of this installation, except for these two wires which were simply redirected from their original clip into the LC2i.

As we all know, space it tight behind the rear seat. I built a custom amp rack to hold the stock Sony amp, Audio Control LC2i and JL mono-amp. Tolerances were literally millimeters. Had to shape the rack around the power rear-window motor and space everything out precisely, but it all fit perfectly. Used an over-sized L-bracket to mount the amp rack to the factory jack base, which I was able to keep in it's original location.



Here are a couple shots installed and ready to rock...The 2-ohm SVC JL sub runs the amp at it's intended rated 2-ohm 500-watt RMS load.





And here we are with the seats back in. Took the opportunity to brush a bit of anti-seize on the through-floor seat bolts (while I was at it, rolled under the truck and did the same on the 4 DPF-mounted EGT sensors!).

Used two small stainless steel L-brackets to secure the subwoofer box in place through existing holes, just to make sure nothing shifts around during offroad driving.





Quite happy with the final results. Didn't have to sacrifice any under rear seat or center console storage and didn't break the bank. Sound is tight and accurate. With equal factory power, the JL component separates are crisp, clear, dynamic and a significant improvement over the OEM Sony speakers. With all the panels and carpet back in and seats raised in place...the mono amp's power is properly absorbed and the right quantity of bass fill can be dialed in via the dash control knob. Plays well with all types and genres of music. Walked the entire truck and can't find any noticeable rattling from the low-end, save for the air-release flaps on the rear cab vent directly behind the subwoofer, which cannot be heard from inside.

Installed component list and cost recap:
JL Audio C2-650 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System (2 sets)
Retail: $249 each set
Paid: $150 each set

JL Audio 13TW5v2-2 13.5" Thin-Line Series Subwoofer
Retail: $699
Paid:$445

JL Audio JX500/1D 500W Mono Class D Sub Amp
Retail: $299
Paid: $165

JL Audio RBC-1 Remote Bass Control
Retail: $40
Paid: $31

AudioControl LC2i 2-Channel Line Out Converter
Retail: $99
Paid $79

Stinger SK4641 4 Gauge 4000 Series Car Audio Amplifier Installation Kit
Retail: $125
Paid: $58

Dynamat Xtreme 12 sqft Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener (4 packs)
Retail: $400
Paid: $236

SuperCrewSound Custom JL Audio 13" TW5 Subwoofer Box with black carpet, gold banana-plug speaker terminal upgrade and acoustic stuffing: $214
JL Audio SGR-13 speaker grille: $26
20 ft Stinger Pro 12-gauge speaker wire: $20
Amp rack and other misc materials (wood, carpet, brackets, stainless screws, etc): $50
Installation and custom work: $0

Custom Auto shop quote for similar install: $10,098
Retail component and materials cost: $2470
DIY budget $1500
Total final actual cost installed: $1624

Not too shabby...

Last edited by BIGDZL; 05-06-2015 at 10:08 AM. Reason: Elaborated on OEM separates replacement/install information.
BIGDZL is offline  
The Following 11 Users Say Thank You to BIGDZL For This Useful Post:
HLBeef (04-26-2016), Jkeller27 (05-17-2017), lowmpg (05-08-2015), PHAT 450 (05-05-2015), RJC2 (05-05-2015), ROCKET VAPOR (05-05-2015), somekevinguy (06-05-2015), Sparky6.7 (02-26-2017), tryke2 (11-09-2016), TX_TRU_STUD (05-06-2015)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 223 Old 05-05-2015, 10:32 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
OneTon2011's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 478
Thanks: 41
Thanked 26 Times in 25 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Great write up, and thanks for sharing. Looking to do something like this on mine as well at some point. Def will use this as a reference!!!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Shawn - 2011 Super Duty 6.7L Lariat
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Oxford White / Sterling Grey two tone

12"-14" PMF 4-Link Long Arm Kit / Reid Racing High Steer / Crown Performance brake lines
King Shocks / SS M-16 40x14.50r22 / 22x12 AF
Yukon 4:30 / Monster Hooks
AMP Research / RIGID / RECON
PMF / Bushwhacker / AFE CAI
H&S Mini Maxx / H&S Delete / ARE
FLO-PRO / Road Armor
OneTon2011 is offline  
post #3 of 223 Old 05-05-2015, 12:07 PM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,705
Thanks: 2
Thanked 277 Times in 250 Posts
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Quoted: 376 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Very nice job.. I was really into custom audio when I was younger.. made my own boxes as well and fiberglassed them.

Couple questions for you as the past few weeks I was looking at doing the same thing.

1) You didn't rewire the front/rear speakers? Running the factory amp for those yet using the JL mono for the sub?

2) What did you use to mount your 6 1/2" speakers? I was debating on going with the C5-570s because they are the true size of the cutouts (5x7s) with 3/4" tweeters. Did you use mounting brackets that convert the 5x7 hole to a 6 1/2" hole?

3) Did you fiberglass the sub box?

4) I haven't taken apart the tweeter cover yet but how did the 3/4" tweeter mount in there? Any issues?

5) I see you didn't replace the dashboard 3" speaker.. any reason why you didn't?

The one thing that I was going to do a little different was run the sub amp through my upfitter switch so I can just turn it on or off by that instead of the knob that you got.

Very nice work.. can't wait to get my truck done so I can get rid of the muddy sound from the sony speakers.

15 6.7 F350 CCSB 4x4 Platinum Bronze Fire
Husky mats, all LED interior, Nushield for MFT, Bakflip F1 with Bakbox 2, Dieselsite fuel filter, DeeZee tailgate assist, Hellwig Rear Sway bar, Bilstein 5100s

dlr


**Support the Online Vendors!!! Want your best price, buy from Scott Pratt!! Get your truck in 3-4 weeks, order to delivered!!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by blwnsmoke; 05-05-2015 at 12:12 PM.
blwnsmoke is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 223 Old 05-05-2015, 12:13 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 45
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Bad *** write up bud...really like how clean everything looks!
TomAss is offline  
post #5 of 223 Old 05-05-2015, 12:47 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 67
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
You just saved me taking mine to an installer. I've done everything before except the line converter and honestly thought there was more to it than that.

Only question I have is where did you run the power cable? Under the cab?

Nice write up.
red_dirt_diesel is offline  
post #6 of 223 Old 05-05-2015, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 
BIGDZL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 135
Thanks: 4
Thanked 25 Times in 11 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneTon2011 View Post
Great write up, and thanks for sharing. Looking to do something like this on mine as well at some point. Def will use this as a reference!!!
That's great...hopes this comes in handy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blwnsmoke View Post
Very nice job.. I was really into custom audio when I was younger.. made my own boxes as well and fiberglassed them.

Couple questions for you as the past few weeks I was looking at doing the same thing.

1) You didn't rewire the front/rear speakers? Running the factory amp for those yet using the JL mono for the sub?

2) What did you use to mount your 6 1/2" speakers? I was debating on going with the C5-570s because they are the true size of the cutouts (5x7s) with 3/4" tweeters. Did you use mounting brackets that convert the 5x7 hole to a 6 1/2" hole?

3) Did you fiberglass the sub box?

4) I haven't taken apart the tweeter cover yet but how did the 3/4" tweeter mount in there? Any issues?

5) I see you didn't replace the dashboard 3" speaker.. any reason why you didn't?

The one thing that I was going to do a little different was run the sub amp through my upfitter switch so I can just turn it on or off by that instead of the knob that you got.

Very nice work.. can't wait to get my truck done so I can get rid of the muddy sound from the sony speakers.
Great questions...

1) That's correct. The front and rear JL separates are efficient enough to create more than enough quality sound and volume off factory amp power. Had no interest in swapping out the 8-inch Microsoft Sync touchscreen, since it basically controls the entire truck. And the way the ACM/DSP are wired, makes if quite complicated to bypass the factory amp. Not to mention the added work of rewiring speakers through the doors. Unless you are looking to compete or create a show truck, not sure the return justifies the added cost and effort.

2) The factory speakers are 6x8, but the C5-570 is a great choice and will fit. I actually don't recommend going with 6.5 or 6.75 unless you are willing and able to do some custom mods. I used brackets and Dynamat to seal each driver. Sounds great, but C5-570 is probably a better, albeit much more expensive choice.

3) Did not fiberglass the box...but holy moly does it slam.

4) Using the flush-mount, tweeters installed without much of an issue. You will have to play with it a bit...remove the stock tweeters, and use the factory screws to reinstall the covers.

5) Good catch...the JL Audio C2-350x will not fit, so I just decided to leave the OEM center channel for now. Creates enough fill and does not degrade sound quality enough for me to notice. May yet decide to fabricate in the 350x at some point, but don't really need to. (5/26/15 Correction: Crutchfield fit guide and customer service indicated that the JL C2-350x would not fit, but blwnsmoke and I split a pair of these speakers and they fit/installed perfectly as center channel replacements. Definite improvement in sound quality and recommended upgrade.)

You can certainly run the amp through the upfitter, but that's an on/off option only. The RBC-1 plugs right into several JL amps and allows you to dial-in just the right amount of bass depending on your music choice and volume. I can tell you that I find myself tweaking it all the time and it makes all the difference in the world.

I'm sure you'll be thrilled with whatever you choose to do...sound quality is vastly improved with the minor (other than the sub of course) mods I made.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomAss View Post
Bad *** write up bud...really like how clean everything looks!
Thanks much--wanted this install to be as discrete and clean as possible, while still making a significant improvement in sound quality.

Quote:
Originally Posted by red_dirt_diesel View Post
You just saved me taking mine to an installer. I've done everything before except the line converter and honestly thought there was more to it than that.

Only question I have is where did you run the power cable? Under the cab?

Nice write up.
Awesome...was hoping this might help some other folks out. Learned lessons along the way and wanted to make sure and share the knowledge.

Ran the 4-gauge power cable off the driver's side battery, through a firewall fitting in the driver's foot well, then along the driver's side rail (see image), then across the rear cab wall to the amp.

If you have some experience with installations, you can literally save yourself thousands and feel more satisfied with the results

Last edited by BIGDZL; 05-26-2015 at 08:46 AM. Reason: Updated C2 Fitment Info
BIGDZL is offline  
post #7 of 223 Old 05-05-2015, 02:46 PM
Premium Member

 
RJC2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Keyser, WV.
Posts: 3,900
Thanks: 98
Thanked 254 Times in 231 Posts
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Quoted: 702 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Nice write up BIGDZL. Do you notice any difference in quietness running down the road with the sound system off? (Like that's really going to happen!)

2019 Raptor
2001 F250 Platinum Edition, 7.3, Automatic, Superchips tuner.
RJC2 is offline  
post #8 of 223 Old 05-05-2015, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 
BIGDZL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 135
Thanks: 4
Thanked 25 Times in 11 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJC2 View Post
Nice write up BIGDZL. Do you notice any difference in quietness running down the road with the sound system off? (Like that's really going to happen!)
Thank you Actually yes...we were traveling at 70mph yesterday and my girl commented on how quiet and pleasant the ride was. We stopped at a light a little later on and you could barely notice the engine or exhaust. Not sure if that's a good thing, but I suppose all you have to do is roll the windows down to hear the roar

I will say that it is nice to listen to the entertainment system at all speeds without having to raise the volume to compete with outside noise and drone.
BIGDZL is offline  
post #9 of 223 Old 05-05-2015, 03:34 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
347strokin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Peachland, BC
Posts: 177
Thanks: 3
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Look awesome, nice clean install. And you just answered my question I posted earlier today! Like that amp mount you built too.
347strokin is offline  
post #10 of 223 Old 05-05-2015, 03:39 PM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 99
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
great work! I have been wanting to do this for a while myself. I was looking at the supercrew sound boxes as well and always curious how well they fit. Obviously they fit great with the minimal room you have behind the seat. Thanks for the post and Ill take a couple notes from your install!
rockbronco is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome