No A/C..... - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
General 6.7 Discussion (2011-2016) General 6.7 Discussion

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post #1 of 9 Old 07-16-2019, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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No A/C.....

So went to turn on the air the other day, and blowing straight heat. Tried to cycle a few times, no change. From what I gather, even though it's push button selection on dash, it's cable driven under dash. Anyone have any experience? Entire dash need to come out or can it be reached through access panels? Any help is greatly appreciated folks!!
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post #2 of 9 Old 07-16-2019, 06:02 PM
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Not aware of any "cable driven" doors or controls on the HVAC now days. Have you checked the freon level to see if low or if there is a leak? The evap core is known to develop leaks on these trucks.

What year is your truck?
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2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

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post #3 of 9 Old 07-16-2019, 07:54 PM
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Check to see if the ac clutch is cycling. If it is, you likely have a blend door issue.
If it isn't, there may be a clutch circuit issue, the clutch or compressor or the system is low.

As mentioned, evaporator cores are fairly common

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post #4 of 9 Old 07-17-2019, 09:56 AM
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Anyone had the evap core changed? About how much does that run? Iím about 98% sure thatís what my problem is.


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post #5 of 9 Old 07-17-2019, 10:50 AM
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Evap core requires the dash to be pulled.

Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

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post #6 of 9 Old 07-17-2019, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by SmokeEater829 View Post
Anyone had the evap core changed? About how much does that run? Iím about 98% sure thatís what my problem is.


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Mine cost just shy of $1600. My defrost mode actuator was bad so it was replaced. I also had the blend door motors, recirculate motor and evap temp sensor replaced while they had it a part. It was $800 labor.

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post #7 of 9 Old 07-17-2019, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Larry,

It's a 2011 250 Lariat. I haven't checked levels as of yet, but kinda sounding like that should be my starting point!!
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-17-2019, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outdoorsman75 View Post
So went to turn on the air the other day, and blowing straight heat. Tried to cycle a few times, no change. From what I gather, even though it's push button selection on dash, it's cable driven under dash. Anyone have any experience? Entire dash need to come out or can it be reached through access panels? Any help is greatly appreciated folks!!
Question: You can push the function buttons and the air switches vents as you have commanded?

Choosing heat will cause the air to get hotter?

As @kaya mentioned, is the compressor clutch engaging(rotating)?

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post #9 of 9 Old 07-20-2019, 05:04 PM
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I bought a borescope camera and could see my evaporator core quit. Did the repair myself. Parts cost $300 for Motorcraft. I was quoted $2100-$2400 for the repair so I did the work easily over two days and took it for a recharge the next morning. The $125 was included in the $300
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