Trans flush - the dealership said do not do it. - Page 3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
General 6.7 Discussion (2011-2016) General 6.7 Discussion

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post #21 of 36 Old 06-04-2019, 06:23 PM

 
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This link is why you DO NOT EVER do a full flush specifically on a trans with an unknown history of service. Pay attention to the comments from Brian aka TransBrain

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tenance-2.html

If you know the service history, then by all means, a flush is fine.

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Part numbers will help alot too if they are not on our site.
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post #22 of 36 Old 06-04-2019, 09:20 PM
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Sounds like I just drop the pan, Change my filter and refill.

Then maybe one more refill before my trip cross country, then another filter and refill when I get to VA.

Sound Good?

When it comes to mechanics, everything I know is from either breaking it or watching someone else do the same. Then I had to fix it....Is that bad?

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post #23 of 36 Old 06-05-2019, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
This link is why you DO NOT EVER do a full flush specifically on a trans with an unknown history of service. Pay attention to the comments from Brian aka TransBrain

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tenance-2.html

If you know the service history, then by all means, a flush is fine.
I read a good bit of the thread, and what TB says makes total sense. ATF is high in detergents so acting as a solvent in the nooks and crannies very well could disperse more debris. What I dont get is that folks will send their engine oil out to a lab all the time, but you rarely hear about trans fluid getting tested. Knowing your TAN/TBN is (IMHO) paramount in deciding to flush or not. If your current fill is depleted, then you may not want to flush. Maybe just a drop/ filter/ top off.
Another thing I have always considered is how many folks get their trans flushed because they think it will solve an existing problem- hard shift, slipping, hesitation? Fact is, those transmissions already have a problem. Flushing probably hastened death, not caused it.


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post #24 of 36 Old 06-05-2019, 05:32 PM
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The transmission and engine have drain plugs for a reason. Drain, replace filter and refill. To replace the transmission filter the pan needs to be removed and reuse the same gasket when reinstalling pan. Donít rush through it and make sure the gasket is aligned properly and get all the bolts started by hand. Then torque the bolts like you would a wheel.


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post #25 of 36 Old 06-12-2019, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by roverjosh View Post
So not to "thread hijack" here, but would you guys fill and flush on 169k miles before a long tow?

I am moving in July. I will be towing a car trailer with my VW on it. Probably 5k lbs of weight, maybe? The trailer is probably heavier then my 69 T3...
I bought the truck with 164k, but don't know if/when the tranny was ever flushed, etc.

Should I do that anyway, considering the mileage? It drives great. No shifting issues at all. Temps run around 192 to 197 degress just cruising up and down the highway to work.
As mentioned above - I wouldn't hesitate to have it flushed. Better now than later. For the skeptics on service history - I wouldn't do a hot flush but drain the pan and refill which replaces a good bit of fluid, or as others have done (the more expensive way) drain, refill, drive, drain again, refill - which will replace most of the used oil.

Going forward I am going to have the dealer do a flush every 60k instead of 150k. It is just too cheap for them to do the full service versus me buying fluid and taking two hours to do it the drain and drive way. I am assuming my PO probably did it once before and I just happen to not have that one record which would indicate I probably did the second service about 20k early (or more if he was late).

I'll update if I start having any trans problems but otherwise....
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post #26 of 36 Old 06-13-2019, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogbody View Post
The transmission and engine have drain plugs for a reason. Drain, replace filter and refill. To replace the transmission filter the pan needs to be removed and reuse the same gasket when reinstalling pan. Donít rush through it and make sure the gasket is aligned properly and get all the bolts started by hand. Then torque the bolts like you would a wheel.
Thanks Hogbody.

I have movers packing my house all week, but next week I should have some time to actually get prepped for my "big drive."

Im gonna load up on Ford Coolant and tranny fluid and hit the Hobby Shop next weekend to do the brakes and tranny drain an refill. I have the service manual so I will thumb through that before I jump in.

Suggestions on tranny fluid? Just get the MoFoCo stuff?

When it comes to mechanics, everything I know is from either breaking it or watching someone else do the same. Then I had to fix it....Is that bad?

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post #27 of 36 Old 06-14-2019, 05:54 AM
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When you say "hobby shop", is that one of those DIY garages?
The Mercon LV is relatively inexpensive. I don't see why not use it. I am a fan of the Amsoil products myself, but for a drain and top off I would likely just go with Mercon. FWIW, if you do go Amsoil then the "ATL" is what you want. It is the Fuel Efficient Synthetic ATF. It is the one that most closely follows the LV specifications for viscosity, flash point, pour point, etc.


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post #28 of 36 Old 06-19-2019, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogbody View Post
The transmission and engine have drain plugs for a reason. Drain, replace filter and refill. To replace the transmission filter the pan needs to be removed and reuse the same gasket when reinstalling pan. Donít rush through it and make sure the gasket is aligned properly and get all the bolts started by hand. Then torque the bolts like you would a wheel.
Is reusing the gasket whats recommended? I'm going to do mine soon i just assumed the gasket should be replaced just like any other component gasket/oring when removing and installing.
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post #29 of 36 Old 06-19-2019, 01:09 PM
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Is reusing the gasket whats recommended? I'm going to do mine soon i just assumed the gasket should be replaced just like any other component gasket/oring when removing and installing.

The factory pan has a gasket.

My Mag Hytec transmission pan has an o-ring. Drop your pan install a new filter and install a new Mag Hytec transmission pan.

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post #30 of 36 Old 06-30-2019, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Evil Twin View Post
When you say "hobby shop", is that one of those DIY garages?
The Mercon LV is relatively inexpensive. I don't see why not use it. I am a fan of the Amsoil products myself, but for a drain and top off I would likely just go with Mercon. FWIW, if you do go Amsoil then the "ATL" is what you want. It is the Fuel Efficient Synthetic ATF. It is the one that most closely follows the LV specifications for viscosity, flash point, pour point, etc.
So I did the drain, filter replacement and refill. I DID reuse the gasket. It looks to be a reusable one.

And The "hobby Shop" is one of the DIY garages. Most every Military base has one for the service members to use to save money on car repairs.

Brakes went easy, filter change and refill went easy but I found something disturbing in the trans pan when I took it out. I found 9 small 1/4" (maybe) long roller bearings stuck to the magnet. That can't be good...

I can say that transmission has worked great while I've had it. 7k miles and nothing but smooth shifts and great performance.

Im getting nervous. I have my big trip cross country on Wednesday. I have to tow my stuff and my little VW from Omaha to Virginia Beach, via Tennessee. What would you guys suggest as far as road side assistance?

I wasn't worried at all about this trip until I dropped that pan....

When it comes to mechanics, everything I know is from either breaking it or watching someone else do the same. Then I had to fix it....Is that bad?

Murphy's Law: "things will go wrong in any given situation, if you give them a chance."
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