Why stay away from the 2011/2012? - Page 4 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
General 6.7 Discussion (2011-2016) General 6.7 Discussion

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post #31 of 36 Old 10-16-2018, 05:50 AM
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Congrats on the new set up!


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2012 F350 CCLB Lariat/ EZ Lynk Tyrant tuned/deleted/15+turbo swap/No limit stage 2 intake/H&S silicone CAC pipe/5 exhaust/2.5 BDS Leveling kit on 35s/Fox shocks/20 XD grenades
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post #32 of 36 Old 10-17-2018, 08:14 AM
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Which do I buy now?!?!

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Originally Posted by Red Ford View Post
I'm one of you guys now!


Sorry,

Not to high-jack this thread or anything, Congrats BTW for getting the new ride--very sweet, but I was lead to believe that the 2008-2012 were to be avoided like the plague? In hindsight, I am not realizing I don't remember who said that and they didn't justify it with any facts. Is it the 6.4 08-10 models that should be avoided?

I ask because (some will recognize) I am truck shopping and although the 03-07 6.0's have tons of high priced issues, they are known and can be monitored, so I was looking in that vain. But I do love the 11-12 body style and interior.

I would potentially spend the extra money for the 6.7 if they are a little more reliable, i.e.: just worry about the turbo and maybe proactively swap it for peace of mind and then just have a bigger payment (I have to finance, no choice in that matter.)

The 6.0 forum has been SUPER helpful in my research but I do love the 6.7's as well.

Now I'm totally conflicted! LOL

Thanks everyone. Again, congrats on the new truck!

When it comes to mechanics, everything I know is from either breaking it or watching someone else do the same. Then I had to fix it....Is that bad?

Murphy's Law: "things will go wrong in any given situation, if you give them a chance."
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post #33 of 36 Old 10-17-2018, 02:28 PM
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If I had to finance, my choice is clear. 6.7 all day long. I own a 6.0 I bought new in 06 and it has been the most reliable vehicle I ever owned at 277,000 miles now. But my 6.7 is so much more capable and without potential problems.


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'06 F250 4x4, 280,xxx hard miles, ARP studded and o-ringed, Bulletproof EGR cooler, IPR coolant filter, blue spring, CSF 6028 intercooler, KC S2R, 4" turbo back, SPD & Herc FICM tune, SCT Livewire, PI converter, occasional Archoil, Mobil 1 Synthetic, Cat elc, Warn bumper and 16.5 winch in front & aftermarket mystery bumper in rear, dent in floorboard under throttle
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post #34 of 36 Old 10-17-2018, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverjosh View Post
Sorry,

Not to high-jack this thread or anything, Congrats BTW for getting the new ride--very sweet, but I was lead to believe that the 2008-2012 were to be avoided like the plague? In hindsight, I am not realizing I don't remember who said that and they didn't justify it with any facts. Is it the 6.4 08-10 models that should be avoided?

I ask because (some will recognize) I am truck shopping and although the 03-07 6.0's have tons of high priced issues, they are known and can be monitored, so I was looking in that vain. But I do love the 11-12 body style and interior.

I would potentially spend the extra money for the 6.7 if they are a little more reliable, i.e.: just worry about the turbo and maybe proactively swap it for peace of mind and then just have a bigger payment (I have to finance, no choice in that matter.)

The 6.0 forum has been SUPER helpful in my research but I do love the 6.7's as well.

Now I'm totally conflicted! LOL

Thanks everyone. Again, congrats on the new truck!
Six seven all day long. There is little chance of a turbo issue on the 11-14s if you don't run a crazy hot tune.
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post #35 of 36 Old 10-17-2018, 07:25 PM
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Ok, so what would you guys go as an upper limit on mileage on the 6.7? Were the type of family to drive vehicles into the ground. I plan on keeping this truck until Im dead. Which will hopefully be a loooong time from now. So to get a 6.7 into my price range, Ill need high mileage but I dont to start at 250k...

Thoughts?
I think its time to head to the 6.7 forum.

Thanks everyone!

When it comes to mechanics, everything I know is from either breaking it or watching someone else do the same. Then I had to fix it....Is that bad?

Murphy's Law: "things will go wrong in any given situation, if you give them a chance."
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post #36 of 36 Old 10-18-2018, 01:54 AM
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To delete the 6.7l you will need a programmer to tune it otherwise the sensors will put you into limp mode lol. Basically it's not like the days of old where you could just throw a pipe inline and call it good the computer is having none of it. You can do it all yourself no problem at all but if you want error free driving a special tune program is needed to basically feed dummy numbers to the computer. If you have a code reader for instance your exhaust will always read like 800 degrees.
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