New/Used Auxiliary Fuel Tank ???s - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 05-27-2018, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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New/Used Auxiliary Fuel Tank ???s

I'd been looking at auxiliary fuel tanks ever since we bought a travel trailer. A few days ago I picked up a used Titan 60-gallon gravity feed model. Asking price was $450 but we settled on $225. It has all of the hardware except the fuel filler tee and hose clamps. I'll also have to extend the fuel line coming from the shut-off valve at the bottom of the tank as that is where they cut the line.

I'm super excited about the deal I got. Tell me if I'm headed the wrong direction regarding how I intend to plumb/wire it up . . .

Thinking of adding either a 12 volt solenoid or 12 volt ball valve after the manual valve at the tank, then an in-line filter before teeing into the fuel filler hose. For that connection, I'm thinking the RDS kit as it has the tee fitting I'd need.

In my mind, correct me if I'm wrong, I could close off the manual valve at the tank and that'd prevent any problems if the electric valve failed (supposed to be normally closed anyhow). While driving, and with the manual valve open, I can dump fuel using the solenoid/ball valve connected to one of my upfitter switches. Check valve would prevent overflow if I lost track and didn't kill the switch once the tank was full.

Am I tracking the right direction, or is there something I'm overlooking?

Thanks in advance for all comments.

Last edited by Ranger413; 05-27-2018 at 03:27 PM.
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post #2 of 18 Old 05-27-2018, 08:56 AM
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You're in the right direction and that is how I would set up a gravity feed aux tank. Keep in mind, with an inline filter gravity may not have enough push to flow fuel through anything other than maybe a lawn mower filter. Might invest in a small inline 12v pump and maybe a spin on filter with water separator?

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post #3 of 18 Old 05-29-2018, 06:18 AM
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Sent you a PM about the RDS kit.

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post #4 of 18 Old 05-29-2018, 07:02 AM
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A 12v solenoid will fail closed, not open. I guess there could be a snowballs chance in Mexico, but I would bet the grocery money on it.

I wrestled with this for months and came up my setup that works awesome for me. I have a 90 gal L tank which I put a tool box on top of. I can have it in/out in 15 minutes if it's empty.

Shutoff on the tank, to a 90 pointing up with fuel hose going over the bed rail between bed and cab and ending with a marine bayonet fuel tank connection.

Mounted in the frame rail is mating bayonet fitting - Racor filterhead with a spin on 5 micron filter/separator - 12v normally closed solenoid - 12v airtex solenoid pump - RDS/DeeZee auxiliary fuel tank connection kit.

Solenoid and pump wired together to aux1, the pump is self priming. It will allow fuel to flow while off hence the solenoid.

Filter always on the vacuum side of the pump, or water could be forced through the membrane. Auxiliary tanks can be a magnet for condensation so I've been told. Also all fuel gets pre filtered, this makes me feel warm and fuzzy.

Best off with nylon fip/mip fittings on the components so you don't have galvanic reactions. I used brass and 2 years later they are reacting to the road salt.

15 minutes or so to transfer fuel from 75% to 100%+. I have heard that gravity feed mostly keeps up with consumption, so I figure that to be an annoyance? I can transfer fuel, have positive feedback from the gauge, and be done.

I just got back from a 1500 mile round trip to northern Ontario on 1 fill up. I caught fuel for $2.60/gallon before I left, the tank has more than paid for it's self.
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post #5 of 18 Old 05-30-2018, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Durapig Eater View Post
A 12v solenoid will fail closed, not open. I guess there could be a snowballs chance in Mexico, but I would bet the grocery money on it.

I wrestled with this for months and came up my setup that works awesome for me. I have a 90 gal L tank which I put a tool box on top of. I can have it in/out in 15 minutes if it's empty.

Shutoff on the tank, to a 90 pointing up with fuel hose going over the bed rail between bed and cab and ending with a marine bayonet fuel tank connection.

Mounted in the frame rail is mating bayonet fitting - Racor filterhead with a spin on 5 micron filter/separator - 12v normally closed solenoid - 12v airtex solenoid pump - RDS/DeeZee auxiliary fuel tank connection kit.

Solenoid and pump wired together to aux1, the pump is self priming. It will allow fuel to flow while off hence the solenoid.

Filter always on the vacuum side of the pump, or water could be forced through the membrane. Auxiliary tanks can be a magnet for condensation so I've been told. Also all fuel gets pre filtered, this makes me feel warm and fuzzy.

Best off with nylon fip/mip fittings on the components so you don't have galvanic reactions. I used brass and 2 years later they are reacting to the road salt.

15 minutes or so to transfer fuel from 75% to 100%+. I have heard that gravity feed mostly keeps up with consumption, so I figure that to be an annoyance? I can transfer fuel, have positive feedback from the gauge, and be done.

I just got back from a 1500 mile round trip to northern Ontario on 1 fill up. I caught fuel for $2.60/gallon before I left, the tank has more than paid for it's self.
Thanks for the detailed reply. That is the basic set-up I was considering except for the bayonet fittings. Is this the filter system you're using?

https://www.amazon.com/FUEL-FILTER-W...or+filter+head

Also, does your tank vent back into the filler neck? I'm assuming since you're using the RDS kit that the answer is no. I think my Titan tank has a rollover valve with about 10" of fuel hose and that's it. I see some other set-ups, especially those using fuel pumps, using a double barbed fuel filter tee - like the RDS unit but with two fittings. Just confused if I need to run the auxiliary tank vent to the filler neck or if its o.k. just venting it into the bed air.

Biggest thing I'm concerned about is jacking up the $10,000 fuel system in my truck.
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post #6 of 18 Old 05-30-2018, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Also, what are your thoughts on stainless steel fittings vs. plastic?
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post #7 of 18 Old 05-30-2018, 01:45 PM
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Pretty much that filter, I got mine off an Oshkosh Hemmit. It's the same but 2x as big, twice as nice half the price type deal.

I would go with similar metal or plastic. The pump is probably zinc plated steel, the solenoid might be brass, or brass plated, a bayonet would be aluminium and so forth. If you don't have road salt, it probably would not matter. Nylon fitting are skookum, it's what Ford uses for low pressure.

Mine vents trough the cap. The truck tank vents to atmosphere via a rollover valve. Venting by a tee, you really need a wye which you would have to make or order from titian. There is a saftey factor to this where once your ship tank is full the auxiliary tank will just circulate. If your titan tank has a nonventing cap then I would run the vent high up to atmosphere with a plastic lawn mower fuel filter on it to keep bugs out and whatnot.

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post #8 of 18 Old 05-31-2018, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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I think I'm going to use the following format for my set-up . . .

1. Mechanical shut-off at the tank (I plan to leave this in place in case I need to do service to the lines in the future)
2. Solenoid Valve
3. In-line fuel filter with water separator
4. Electric Fuel Pump (valve and pump to be actuated off of upfitter switch #2 on the dash - initially I'll monitor and turn off when full but may add a timer or some other auto shut-off in the future)
5. RDS tee fitting for the filler neck.

Presently, I don't need a quick-detach feature for my set-up so I'm going to avoid the bayonet fittings. My Titan tank has what appears to be a roll-over valve on the top with a section of fuel hose connected to it. It appears to be vented to the atmosphere. I like the idea of installing a lawnmower filter there. Great idea. I shouldn't have too much trash entering my tank as 99% of the time it'll live protected under my soft tonneau cover.
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post #9 of 18 Old 05-31-2018, 10:46 AM
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Sounds like a solid setup, your gonna love filling up when it's cheap and not needing to stop.

My tank is in and out 6x a year at least so the disconnect is required. I was originally going to use hydrolic quick connects, but had the bayonet in the tool box.

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post #10 of 18 Old 06-01-2018, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Durapig Eater View Post
Sounds like a solid setup, your gonna love filling up when it's cheap and not needing to stop.

My tank is in and out 6x a year at least so the disconnect is required. I was originally going to use hydrolic quick connects, but had the bayonet in the tool box.
Durapig,

Any chance you can share pics of your set-up?
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