Fueling M.A.D. Everywhere
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rockwall, TX
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First your fuel mileage will increase because the engine is no longer dumping fuel into the exhaust stroke to be burned in the DPF to clean out the soot it has collected.
Second it will lower your fuel dilution because fuel won't be dumping into the engine on the exhaust stroke.
The tuners will also allow you to run much higher horsepower tunes on your truck (just be forewarned, the higher the tunes the more modification your truck will require to stay bulletproofed).
INSTALLATION: This one is easy. Plug it in to your OBDII port, follow the instructions on the tuner and it will walk you thru the installation. NOTE: DON'T INSTALL A "DELETE" TUNE (either deleting your DPF or EGR) BEFORE PERFORMING THE DELETE!2. Exhaust: There are a few options at this point.
A DPF/DOC delete pipe is the minimum and the cheapest option for removing the DPF. This is just a short straight pipe that takes the place of the DPF and DOC.
After that there are all sorts of options for full exhaust.
First you must decide if you want to get a downpipe back or turbo back. The stock downpipe is very restrictive but in order to remove the stock downpipe it must either be cut or the cab removed. The replacement downpipe is usually a 2 piece so it can be put back in cab on and is not very difficult to install.
The next question is 4" or 5" pipe. I have noticed that most people who buy a 4" pipe eventually switch to a 5" pipe. The 5" has a deeper sound to it and a little less whistle. I haven't heard of anyone noticing a difference in performance between the two, it comes down to personal preference.
Last, muffler or no muffler. The turbos in the 6.4 quiet the motor a lot, to the point that a muffler really isn't needed. It is also personal preference. I'm sure having a muffler might take some more of the whistle out of the exhaust note.
As far as material, I would think it depends on where you live, if you live farther north and the roads are salted in the winter, spring for the extra price and get the stainless rather than the aluminized.
INSTALLATION: Exhaust Installation3. Intake: There are all kinds of intakes out there. By far the 2 most used brands on this forum are S&B or AFE. Either will do the job on your tuned 6.4. The stock intake will work for lower HP tunes, but once the high HP tunes are loaded up there is too much air flowing and the filter minder will pop every time you roll into the throttle a little. The only other options here are wet vs dry.
Wet requires cleaning when it is dirty. Dry is just replaced.
INSTALLATION:4. EGR delete: There are also a few options here. The 6.4 EGR coolers are better than the 6.0, but it is still a point of failure. AND the EGR system puts soot and other crap back into the engine. Just take a look in the air intake manifold of a 6.4 that has had the EGR intact for a long time, its caked with crap.
Option 1: turn off the EGR with a tuner. This is usually done on the higher tunes. Everything is still intact, but the crap isn't being cycled into the engine. This is byfar the bandaid fix and I wouldn't recommend it as a final solution.
Option 2: Block off plates. These can be installed on both sides of the EGR coolers. This is the cheapest and easiest solution but is still not a perfect solution. Coolant still flows through the coolers, but exhaust gas doesn't flow through. A tuner is also required for this.
Option 3: The 100% solution. Completely remove the EGRs with an EGR delete. These kits come with block of plates for the exhaust and the coolant. This takes time to do (usually most of a day). I suggest getting a kit that has an intake elbow to replace the EGR valve. This requires a tuner as well. FloPro, Sinister and PTP make quality kits.
INSTALLATION: EGR Delete InstructionsThat is the minimum. There are plenty of other modifications that can assist.
First an open air vent: Run some heater hose from the crank case down to your frame rail and put a small filter on the end. Cap off the air intake connection. This is by far the cheapest and easiest option, however it tends to smell and you leave puddles where you park.6. CAC pipe: CAC stands for Charge Air Cooler. This is the pipe on the cold side of your intercooler that goes to your turbo. Instead of changing the design to allow a circular pipe to be installed, Ford just crimped the pipe, making it restrictive. An aftermarket pipe can be installed with minimal trimming of the radiator support or some can be installed with no trimming.
Second a catch can: Run heater hose from the crank case to a catch can with filter material in it and a return line to the air intake tube.
Third vent to exhaust: This requires a little fabricating skill. There are some kits out there if you look. Or it can be done DIY. Basically it requires welding on a bung and running a hose from the CCV to the bung on the exhaust. THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED UNLESS YOU GREATLY UNDERSTAND THE VENTURI EFFECT. If this is done incorrectly pressure could build on the exhaust side and cause excessive pressure in your CCV.
INSTALLATION: CAC Pipe Instructions7. Coolant filter: the 6.4 engine block was sand cast and therefore overtime sand that was still in the block seeps into the coolant. There are a few brands: DieselSite or Sinister
INSTALLATION: Sinister Coolant Filter Instructions8. Aftermarket Fuel Filter: I wanted to start with a little description of the 6.4 fuel system, but this thread has too many characters. Here is a link to a new thread: 6.4 Fuel System
You have 4 main options: FASS, AirDog, Aeromotive (A-1000), or Fuel Lab
FASS and AirDog: Both of these companies make LP systems specifically for a 6.4. These are the cheapest options and are quite effective at water separation and filtering out other impurities. Their biggest disadvantage is there have been a decent number of these that fail suddenly and without warning although many do hold up reasonably well. Typically, you want at least 150 GPH rating on either of these.
Aeromotive: The Aeromotive pump (A-1000) has the ability to supply a lot more than fuel than other LPFP available. This does seem to allow it to last longer than the AirDog or FASS because it is not working as hard as the other pumps to supply fuel. Aeromotive never made a kit specifically for the 6.4 so you will have to add a bracket to hold the water separator (pre-pump), the A-1000, and the filter for impurities post-pump. There are a few kits available if you don’t want to make your own brackets and assemblies. The two most commonly used are Elite’s Stage II LP system and Marty’s Diesel LP system. Marty’s kit does allow you to use CAT filters and have a 2 micron filtration rating.
Fuel Lab: Fuel Lab also does not make a kit specifically for the 6.4. There are a few companies that have made a kit so that you can run a Fuel Lab on the 6.4. To date, Midwestern offers a kit and bracket for these pumps on a 6.4. Also, Fuel Lab is working directly with Side Action Diesel so that Side Action can offer a kit for the 6.4 although technically, the entire system is not made by Fuel Lab. This kit is expected to be released in April or May of 2014. The biggest advantage of the Fuel Lab pump is that is uses a brushless motor (unlike any of the others) so there are no brushes to wear out over time.
Fuel Bowl Deletes: These really aren’t needed if you have a stock HPFP and injectors. They only benefit they provide on stock applications is they eliminate clutter in the engine bay, they eliminate one more part that can fail, they save you from having to buy both filters and only using the engine filter (assuming you have replaced the LP system, and they can make diagnosing a fuel problem easier.
Nozzles: With a single stock HPFP, the stock nozzles are basically maxing out the capabilities of the HPFP. If you decide to upgrade to a larger nozzle (even just 15% nozzles), you will have to modify the HP system or cut the PW to maintain RP at WOT on race tune (PW of 2.2 to 2.3). The only options available for modifying the HP system are a modded K16 or dual fuelers. The only modded K16 that is available is made by Industrial (II) and it is notorious for grenading and taking out the injectors, rails, etc. when it does.
INSTALLATION:9. Aftermarket intercooler: an aftermarket intercooler will lower your EGTs. If you tow heavy or like to race, this will benefit you greatly. Otherwise, it is not a requirement. Spearco, AFE, and No Limit make quality intercoolers. This is a 10 minute installation.
INSTALLATION: Aftermarket Intercooler Installation Instructions10. Intercooler boots: stock boots are short and breakdown over time with oil (CCV mod prevents the oil). Boots from DieselSite.com are also longer and are rated for higher pressure than stock. These are also not a requirement for bulletproofing, but they have benefits.
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