Body Mount Bushings - Page 4 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #31 of 38 Old 11-09-2018, 07:24 PM
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Doesn't seem to be a "best" option, just best for your situation. That being said...

I did my mounts a couple weeks ago and replaced with the black polyurethane Daystars. I sprang for the kit that came with replacement hardware as well. (A relatively new offering from Daystar.) Haven't heard any "squeaking", but they're definitely a bit creaky. Doesn't bother me though, bang for the buck its a no brainer. Less than half as expensive as any other option, WITH the replacement hardware kit. Comes in at $250 from Amazon. I also hit them all with some teflon lube from B'laster, per recommendation from a forum post on some other diesel site. Dunno if it helped at all, but definitely didn't hurt.

I'm perfectly happy with the ride. Probably a bit firmer than stock, but way better than the crumbled OEM mounts. I wanted some extra firmness for the radiator support anyway. Ride quality is the only reason I could figure going with an OEM design, but its not worth paying for in my opinion, especially since you're gonna have to replace em every 50k. If it matters that much, go for the Dorman replacements over OEM. They seem to be better AND cheaper.

All in all, I'm quite happy with the poly Daystars, and would recommend. I DID have a couple issues with the integrated threads on the replacement metal Daystar "cups" included with the hardware kit, though. They seem to be designed for a 6.0L chassis that threads from the top down. Since 6.4's thread from the bottom up, into a cage nut, I had to drill these threads out. ALSO, I had a cage nut that seized and had to cut it out and pitched. So then I tried to go top-down and actually use the integrated threads for the replacement, but the weld point popped when I torqued to 50lbs. Fortunately I was able to save a couple of the OEM bottom mounting plates, so I re-used one of those, just had to buy a new nut/washer setup. Hardware kit is handy, but has some flaws. I was mostly able to work around them. Probably won't have these sorts of issues with OEM or Dorman hardware.

According to Daystar their kevlar model is going to be even firmer than the polys, but stands a fighting chance at outliving the truck's frame.

Last edited by zthayer2.2; 11-09-2018 at 07:54 PM.
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post #32 of 38 Old 12-26-2018, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zthayer2.2 View Post
Doesn't seem to be a "best" option, just best for your situation. That being said...

I did my mounts a couple weeks ago and replaced with the black polyurethane Daystars. I sprang for the kit that came with replacement hardware as well. (A relatively new offering from Daystar.) Haven't heard any "squeaking", but they're definitely a bit creaky. Doesn't bother me though, bang for the buck its a no brainer. Less than half as expensive as any other option, WITH the replacement hardware kit. Comes in at $250 from Amazon. I also hit them all with some teflon lube from B'laster, per recommendation from a forum post on some other diesel site. Dunno if it helped at all, but definitely didn't hurt.
Do you have the kit # for the Daystars with hardware?

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post #33 of 38 Old 12-26-2018, 09:30 AM
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Part number for the kit is: Daystar KF04058BK

I'll also toss in this update regarding the hardware kit:

I did have some stretching/deformation issues with the supplied washers... The supplied bolts are of the same metal quality, so its possible I would have had issues down the road with the threads stretching as well. Upon this discovery, I replaced all supplied bolts and washers with class 10.9 hardware. 130mm M12 bolts with matching washers are what I ordered, but 120mm would have probably been a better fit. I had to stack an extra washer on each bolt to make sure I didn't run out of thread. Of course reusing the factory bolts would also work, but I had to cut most of mine off in removing the stock mounts so that wasn't an option for me.

I went to Fastenal for this hardware, but you can of course go to any quality fastener supply company for the class 10.9 "good stuff."

So in the end I only used the metal "cups" from the Daystar hardware kit, ditched all the subpar quality bolts and washer. And of course I had to also drill out the 6.0-designed threads in said cups... But when the alternative is 800 for Dorman kits, its STILL money way ahead.
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post #34 of 38 Old 12-26-2018, 11:00 AM
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Part number for the kit is: Daystar KF04058BK
Thanks!

That matches what I found. I have a local shop ready to do the work, I just need to decide on the bushings. Seems like the full Daystar kit is pointless since you can't use the hardware supplied. I am not doing the work so I have no idea what is going to survive removing the old bushings...
I am currently waiting for Energy Suspensions to get back to me on a request.

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post #35 of 38 Old 12-26-2018, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RUFFSTUFF View Post
Seems like the full Daystar kit is pointless since you can't use the hardware supplied. I am not doing the work so I have no idea what is going to survive removing the old bushings...
Yeah, its a LOT of stuff that doesn't work/isnt good, but I was mostly in it for the metal "hats" that sandwich the poly bits in place on the frame's flange. For me, these metal mounts were often a casualty when a bolt had to be cut out. Then again, your shop will probably do a better job of the OEM mount removal than I did.
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post #36 of 38 Old 12-26-2018, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by zthayer2.2 View Post
Yeah, its a LOT of stuff that doesn't work/isnt good, but I was mostly in it for the metal "hats" that sandwich the poly bits in place on the frame's flange. For me, these metal mounts were often a casualty when a bolt had to be cut out. Then again, your shop will probably do a better job of the OEM mount removal than I did.
They at least were familiar with the common issues about removal and said they have been succcessful in the past. Of course, with the caviat that if cages and such start breaking the clock is still ticking...

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post #37 of 38 Old 12-26-2018, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Glad I could start a useful thread for the body mounts. It is definitely a job, and the daystar mounts work, they just need to installed properly and sometimes with better hardware as needed depending on the truck. I'm thrilled with how my truck rides now, and its been a little while since the install. I still get a little creak especially starting/stopping but its not that bad at all. Maybe one day I will try and tighten up the mounts towards the rear of the cab a little more to see if this takes away the creak. Atleast that is where it sounds to be coming from. Definitely not the front, and more than likely not the middle.

Now if I can find an upper door latch for a super cab driver's side rear door, my truck will be set again!
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post #38 of 38 Old 02-17-2019, 08:02 AM
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Decided to go with the OEM replacements. Researching the parts necessary off of the drawing I got all the Upper and Lower Isolators and the bolts, but does anyone know if I should also get the Lower Insulator Retainer Brackets (#11) and the Caps (#12) and how many?

Thanks!
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2015 F350 DRW Platinum, SCT X4, EDGE CTS2, aFe PDS, AirLift 5000 Ultimate & Wireless Air, Lund LED Bull Bar, RC Grille bar, B&W 5th Wheel, Stark LED Lighting
2010 F250, H&S Mini Maxx, aFe PDS, Diamond Eye 4", Pro Comp Nitro 2.5", Bilstein 5100, Westin Bull Bar, Bushwacker Pocket Style, B&W Slider, Firestone Ride-Rite, Fuel Hostage 20x10, Pioneer/Kicker/JL Audio
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