Help! Air Conditioning blowing warm at idle - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-24-2013, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Help! Air Conditioning blowing warm at idle

My A/C has worked flawlessly up until about a week ago. When I first get into the truck and start it in the driveway I click on the a/c and it continues to blow warm air. I start driving down the road and then it kicks in. Hit a red light, warm humid air again. If im on a long stretch of road or the interstate its ice cold. Im Stumped here. I saw one person say they had issues with the relay in the junction box. Has anyone had a similar issue and resolved it? The fan doesn't run all the time when its on but I have heard it kick on and off so It appears to be working. Please help! Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 14 Old 06-24-2013, 08:54 PM
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i would check the freon charge first. Most aauto parts stores can check it and if its low then just buy a can of freon and a simple gauge and it take less than five minutes.

2nd if that didnt work there should be a sensor on the side of the evaporator on the firewall that goes bad and doesnt allow the compressor to kick in. i unplugged mine and jumppered it out and the compressor worked, so this told me to replaced the sensor, think it was ~$20.

those are the 2 easiest to try, after that it could be the compressor its self going bad or the clutch going out in the compressor and i cant help you past this.

Good Luck.

let us know what you find out
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-24-2013, 08:56 PM
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just read your post again and it really sounds like a low freon charge. i used a can of the sub-cool r-134 from auto zone. it is a synthetic and supposed to cool better. fixed mine right up
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-24-2013, 09:02 PM
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Here is a cheap and easy fix that sometimes works. Before doing this make sure that the clutch plate isn't turning while idling. Once throttle is applied and the clutch starts to grab it means the clutch needs shimmed. Here the link that goes into greater detail

SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap

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post #5 of 14 Old 06-25-2013, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I switched relays and the a/c works now but I put gauges on it anyways. Head pressure is 400psi!!! and 90 on the low side. I think there might be another issue. when I took the gauge off the high side shot out a mist of green dye. I'm guessing either there's a bunch of air in the system from the last joker who worked on it or possibly a partial restriction. Does anyone know where the orifice is located? Would you all tend to agree with this or do you have any other thoughts on what might be going on? Also, the radiator fan never kicks on full blast at idle, it does spin but its just slowly spinning with the rotation of the pulley, if that makes any sense. could this be a contributor?

2005 F-250 CC FX4
[SIZE="6"][COLOR="Blue"]
APR head studs & oem head gaskets
Warren diesel injectors - stock
OEM Oil Cooler
Dummy plugs & stand pipes
IPR egr gen 2 delete
Updated STC Fitting
Updated turbo train tube
'08 trans pan & filter
Dieselsite coolant Filter
EGT & Fuel PSI guage
Rotella Ultra ELC
Blue Spring
Updated HFCM drain
Riff Raff boots
4" Diamond Eye turbo back
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Ed's FICM-eco tune
High Idle Mod
Manual fan control
Torque Monitor


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post #6 of 14 Old 06-25-2013, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselshield View Post
Well, I switched relays and the a/c works now but I put gauges on it anyways. Head pressure is 400psi!!! and 90 on the low side. I think there might be another issue. when I took the gauge off the high side shot out a mist of green dye. I'm guessing either there's a bunch of air in the system from the last joker who worked on it or possibly a partial restriction. Does anyone know where the orifice is located? Would you all tend to agree with this or do you have any other thoughts on what might be going on? Also, the radiator fan never kicks on full blast at idle, it does spin but its just slowly spinning with the rotation of the pulley, if that makes any sense. could this be a contributor?
thos numbers are both high. sounds like it is actually over-charged. it could be when youre idleing or moving slow that the condensor up front is getting hot which causes an increase in head pressure this would cause the high pressure switch to shut off the compressor to save blowng something apart. when you take off the fan will cool the condensor lowering system pressure to the point it kicks the system back on.

if the orifice tube was clogged youd have low low side and high high side numbers.

Brett
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-25-2013, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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I looked again and the system was running around 250-300 high and 25-30 low after evacuating a small amount of pressure. Still seems like an extremely high head pressure at idle. Thinking my orifice might be plugged......

2005 F-250 CC FX4
[SIZE="6"][COLOR="Blue"]
APR head studs & oem head gaskets
Warren diesel injectors - stock
OEM Oil Cooler
Dummy plugs & stand pipes
IPR egr gen 2 delete
Updated STC Fitting
Updated turbo train tube
'08 trans pan & filter
Dieselsite coolant Filter
EGT & Fuel PSI guage
Rotella Ultra ELC
Blue Spring
Updated HFCM drain
Riff Raff boots
4" Diamond Eye turbo back
Billet fuel filter cap
Ed's FICM-eco tune
High Idle Mod
Manual fan control
Torque Monitor


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post #8 of 14 Old 06-25-2013, 09:56 AM
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That green stuff is dye from the last time it was charged. Having a little pressure come out is normal when you pop off the test ports. That was not air coming out. That was freon.

On all the cars I have filled and tested you needed to check at idle, and while keeping the rpms about 1500. The numbers should and will be different. You need to know what the high and low side are doing. There are a lot of different results but you need to run both those test and tell us what is happening to diagnose it correctly.

When idling, hood up, hot day and letting the a/c run... the condenser up font can get super hot. I once was having a similar problems on someones truck. The condenser was so hot that it was messing with the readings. Might try running a hose over it or make sure not to let it sit idling too long with the hood up.


High side seems just a little high but it does not sound like an orifice tube. To change to orifice tube you have to evacuate all the freon (for EPA reasons, change the orifice tube, vacuum out the pressure to negative vacuum, and refill new freon, oil and dye.

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post #9 of 14 Old 06-27-2013, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, I know that the green stuff is dye, and im aware that its Freon. I must have sounded like a moron previously if I gave the impression that I didn't know that. LOL. I checked at idle and 1500 rpm went out first thing in the morning and fired it up.

1St test: OAT approx. 70-75*F, Initial start no a/c, pressures equalized at near 100psi. turn on ac with max fan, low side drops to around 40 psi - High side goes to 250-300 immediately and then climbs almost all the way to 400psi. Let it sit a while test again about an hour later same results minus high side pressure while a/c is on is now 250-300

@ 1500 rpm the low side drops down to 30-35 psi and the high side climbs to 275-325.

With my A/c experience this head / high side pressure seems to be way too high.

I evacuated some of the refrigerant. same test at idle produced low side pressure dropping to 35-40 / high side around 250, at 1500 rpm low goes to around 30 psi and high climbs to 275 again.

Is this enough information?

also, FYI when I evac'ed some of the reefer my ac stays on more time now but the air is nowhere as cold as it should / used to be.

2005 F-250 CC FX4
[SIZE="6"][COLOR="Blue"]
APR head studs & oem head gaskets
Warren diesel injectors - stock
OEM Oil Cooler
Dummy plugs & stand pipes
IPR egr gen 2 delete
Updated STC Fitting
Updated turbo train tube
'08 trans pan & filter
Dieselsite coolant Filter
EGT & Fuel PSI guage
Rotella Ultra ELC
Blue Spring
Updated HFCM drain
Riff Raff boots
4" Diamond Eye turbo back
Billet fuel filter cap
Ed's FICM-eco tune
High Idle Mod
Manual fan control
Torque Monitor


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post #10 of 14 Old 06-27-2013, 09:48 AM
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those numbers seem to be about perfect with what ive done down here. if it were me i would evac the system and get a vacume on it for a while to evaporate any moisture int he system (moisture kills cooling ability) then recharge it with the recommended amount.

its looking liek youre system is working the way it should, its just not cooling which leads me to believe there's either air or moisture in the system, or both.

Brett
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